Good progress Bob! i think your ingenuity could evolve into a new style of gib key puller, you'd just need to modify the welded end to a sturdy hook/eye to reliably grab the key end. it would have some advantages over the collar approach that I currently use. I've had trouble with key gib ends that sit too high for the collar to slip over.

Some good news and some not so good news...

She RUNS again! but only on one side. 

I'm losing compression on the right side, it seems the COV is leaking. I have too much compression to turn it over by hand, but i only get billowing smoke from the exhaust and the hissing of gas from the COV rather than ignition. it's worst in high compression setting and slightly better in the low compression setting, but it still leaks.

I was able to remove the other COV but not this one. Even took the head to the local machine shop and they couldn't remove it either. I've tried heat cycles + my 1m long shifter on it, with a decent extension handle but it's locked solid.

Is there a sacrifice to the diesel gods I need to make?

cheers
Samo

Nice one again, Starfire.

A bit of brazing and that's the top end lube sorted, hopefully

I don't know anything about reincarnation but for years I've been hoping to come back as a book mark in a Janet Reger catalogue (for those in foreign p,laces see  http://www.petite-coquette.co.uk/janet-reger/ )

Cheers Stef

I agree with your approach, make them out of silver steel and harden/temper. I'd only ream the weights and gear if the bore was sloppy, either that or bush it? With mine the pins were very worn, and I replaced the Cam gearwheel because it had broken teeth. The bore through the governor weights in my engine were still pretty good, because there's a lot more material to share the load. So in my case stock pins were good.

For my throttle linkages I made up silver steel pins, bored out the linkages from 3/16 to 5mm on account of the wear. Fiddly but now it's nice and smooth through the full range of travel.

Quick way to repair clevis pins, worn elongated holes etc ,  bronze them up and redrill.

Y'know Jaffa, IMHO I'd give the Indian parts a go . . .

They are agricultural but the machine is agricultural.  I have an Indian head on my CS and I feel OK about it.

There are many quality issues with the Indian engines but I think there may be a consensus here that their export parts are better?  And, I suspect most of the probs with Indian motors are fixed by good set-up not by dealing with deficiencies in the components so much

The basic architecture of the machines and their low RPMs makes them very tolerant

I looked into boring/sleeving my cylinder and i suspect NZ/Oz situations might be similar with machine shops etc etc?  It was gonna cost around $400-ish to bore, press in a sleeve, re-machine bore to suit piston-plus-clearance etc.  That would have left me with a cast sleeve, necessitating different rings.  In the end I said to myself "It was going OK before so it will probably continue to go OK" and it has to date.  I bought another whole CS for $500 so that gives me options

Also, FWIW I like the look of the new injector/pump components I have bought off Rob and. although the linkage bits look crude, they are cheap-as-chips and i think they can be made to serve well once minus all the green paint and set up OK

Just my $0.02

Also, FWIW I have heard of folks making a bit of a "weir" of plasticine or similar around the perimieter of the broken gib key to allow them to make a "puddle" of INOX or other preferred penetrating oil above the level of the top of the key, and leaving it to work its way through over time and topping-up as required.  Personally I have found gentle heat and then penetrating oil after it has cooled right down to often be successful as I think the heat encourages a minor differential expansion/contraction of the different metals of the cast wheel, the steel Gib key and the rust/oxides in between/around them.  I also reckon, again FWIW, that heat from a MAPP gas torch or similar is pretty safe as it takes a lot to heat up he hub area of one of those wheels

Good luck

That picture at the start of the thread is a beauty !
Very nice unit.

(lister envy)

Veggie

That liner will probably continue to serve if you want it to?  As long as there's nothing "lippy" for rings to catch on?  You gotta think "600 RPM" not "automotive" IMHO

You could certainly give it a scuff-up and put it back together and try?  All that's lost is a couple hours work

Injector etc?  Maybe throw the whole injector/linkage shit in a bucket of diesel and while it's soaking have a look on Old Timer Engines to see how cheap all that stuff is and just buy a new pump, lines, linkage & injector -then when you go to start it you will know all that stuff is good and when you get a solid, distinctive "CRINK" from the injector you'll know you are good

Just my $0.02

I concur on the fuel injection stuff... both pumps and injectors readily available brand new MICO Bosch and their quality is good. The OEM pump does have a drilled shaft for the excess fuel (overload) pawl... maybe worth recovering an old pump for that feature.

dieselgman

Nice rehabilitation project!
These engines all end up looking more or less the same after years of neglect - but I never grow tired watching them come back to life. Keep posting those updates.

Oh my word dieselgman... 10 engines... I feel like I need a break after doing just one