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Messages - ajaffa1

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 108
16
Engines / Re: Starting issue
« on: July 25, 2023, 11:42:41 PM »
Hi Altonx, the decompressor lever works by opening one of the exhaust valves. If it is badly adjusted it might open it far enough to kiss the piston crown, especially if you have a heavy build up of carbon in the cylinder.

Bob

17
Engines / Re: Starting issue
« on: July 25, 2023, 12:04:34 AM »
Hi Altonx, do you have the maintenance manual? If not, it is available for free download here https://www.winget.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/PETTER-A-RANGE-WORKSHOP-MANUAL.pdf

The manual recommends heating the glow plugs for 20 seconds. If you do try starting on just one cylinder with the other decompressed please check that the decompressors are correctly adjusted or you may crash the piston into a valve.

How old is the battery? Perhaps it does not have enough voltage or cranking amps for this application. Check the electrical system, battery terminals, solenoid connections and any earthing wires. Check the glow plugs are actually getting hot.

Let us know how you get on.

Bob

18
Lister Based Generators / Re: LD1 based generator
« on: July 16, 2023, 12:02:28 AM »
Hi Peter, if you do a quick internet search for Lister LD pistons you will find lots of photos showing that the top of these pistons have a scalloped  indent in the top with a deeper recess in the middle of the piston crown, if these are full of oil, water or diesel the compression ratio will be too high to get it past TDC. In the past I have flushed hydrolocked engines using petrol for oil or diesel, or using methylated spirits for water. Pour it in the air intake with the inlet valve open, leave it a few minutes to dissolve whatever is sat on top of the piston crown. Now slowly hand crank it with the decompressor lever open until most of the fluid is expelled from the exhaust. Leave it overnight with one of the valves open, the remaining petrol or metho should evaporate leaving you with a near clean piston crown.

In the past I have used a pony motor (petrol or electric) with a belt to spin up engines that are difficult to start. Once you have had it running it will probably be easier to crank start.

Bob


19
Lister Based Generators / Re: LD1 based generator
« on: July 12, 2023, 11:46:02 PM »
Hi Peter and welcome. My assessment of the problem you have is that you have excess compression, the fuel air mixture is igniting too soon and causing the engine to bounce backward rather than passing top dead center. The most obvious cause for this would be that someone has set the bump clearance too small (clearance between top of piston and cylinder head) however since you have recently seen it start and run properly this is unlikely. The other way to achieve an increase in the compression ratio is to pour oil or fuel into the cylinder, I suspect that you have a dribling fuel injector and unburned liquid diesel sitting on top of the piston causing excessive compression. If a tiny amount of dirt got into the fuel injector line when you did the fuel filter it could have caused the fuel injector pintle to stick partly open. Pull out the fuel injector and clean the injector nozzle, then try it again.
Let us know how you go.

Bob

20
Changfa Engines / Re: Changfa s1115 value?
« on: July 08, 2023, 08:30:56 AM »
Hi Fig, you can buy a brand new one on Alibaba for between US$ 200 and 300, no idea what the shipping costs would be.

Bob

21
Engines / Re: Gib key removal
« on: July 07, 2023, 08:33:01 AM »
Heat, shock, penetrating oil and persistence will win in the end. Drilling really is the very last resort, difficult to do and likely to damage the shaft or flywheel. Butch (38 ac) swears by applying a significant outward pressure to the gib key while beating the flywheel in the opposite direction with a very very large hammer, I trust his experience and knowledge.
Good luck.

Bob

22
Engines / Re: RS1 Coil Values
« on: July 05, 2023, 08:23:02 AM »
Hi Guys, these magnetos have an insulating seal between the two armature bearing races and the chassis of the magneto. A spark will always take the shortest route to ground, if these cardboard insulators are damp guess what happens.
Glad you got it running.

Bob

23
Listeroid Engines / Re: Kinda unknown listeror
« on: July 04, 2023, 11:51:05 PM »
Yes cam lobes can be hardened. They are held on the shaft with taper pins and can be removed. Heat them up until they glow red and then quench them, to temper them warm them up till they just start to turn blue and let them cool slowly. How successful this will be depends on the quality of the steel, if they are high carbon steel this will work well, if they are closer to mild steel and have been case hardened it won`t do much. Original Lister parts were all high carbon steel, I suspect some of the Indian Listeroid parts are of much lower quality.
Have a look on the internet for stationary engine parts. There are very good suppliers in the UK, USA and here in Australia. Most of these parts are made in India and should fit your engine. I have found that it is often necessary to play about with gasket thicknesses to achieve the correct tolerances/clearances/end float & etc.
Keep us up to date with how you get on.

Bob


24
Everything else / Re: JP Lister Fuel Drain
« on: July 03, 2023, 11:53:57 PM »
Looks like a lug nut with a bolt through it, probably got a large washer with a seal inside of the tank. If the threads in the tank nipple are intact you can probably find a suitable drain tap on Ebay.

Bob

25
Listeroid Engines / Re: New Listeroids Available
« on: July 03, 2023, 11:45:12 PM »
Hi Eric, I`m very interested to see your design for a generator shed. I need to build one to house two generators, one is an original Lister CS 6/1 with an ST head, this can be completely enclosed for noise reduction with just the cooling hopper outside. The other is a Petter 3 phase generator, it is air cooled and cannot be completely enclosed, I have been trying to work out how to sound deaden an enclosure with louvred doors.
Looking forward to watching your progress, will you be using an in ground exhaust system?

Bob

26
Listeroid Engines / Re: Kinda unknown listeror
« on: July 03, 2023, 11:30:47 PM »
That does look like a crack, it could probably be brazed but I worry there may be further cracking inside. Replacement cylinder blocks are readily available, some are just cast iron while others have steel wet sleeves, I recently heard of one with a chrome plated bore.
My biggest concern about your project is that the heat it has been exposed to may have annealed some of the hardened and tempered components, things like cam lobes and followers. Replacements are available but it could get expensive and the quality of some Indian manufactured components is questionable.
38ac did a very good explanation on how to balance a Listeroid, it didn`t involve tying pieces of steel to the spokes with wire! If you do get it going and it`s a real jumper you might consider replacing the cast iron piston with a lighter weight aluminium piston.
Looking forward to seeing how you get on, good luck.

Bob

27
+1 Cobbadog, what a beauty! I don`t mind the new fuel tank, it would look better with an original tank but I doubt anyone could supply one. So the best option is for something functional but clearly not original.
I hope the visitors to your festival appreciate how much work, money, talent and effort went into restoring your engine, it is a credit to you, your family and your community. Well done VP

Bob

28
Hi RT, I used to live in Cheshunt, just north of London. I`m now in Tasmania. That unit looks like a good project, probably about 70 years old. These were much more robustly made than the modern equivalents and can be rebored/reground etc if necessary. It is missing the flywheel cowling, this will need replacing as the vanes on the flywheel drive cooling air around the cylinders.
No shortage of spare part suppliers in the UK. If you have difficulty locating anything I recommend you find your nearest canal boat servicing yard and have a yarn with their engineer, a lot of canal boats ran Lister and Petter engines.
How are you planning to rectify 240 volt AC to charge the batteries? A warning: if you rectify 240 volts AC yo get around 380 volts DC which will kill you! please be careful.

Bob

29
Hi Richard, welcome to the forum. You don`t say what part of the world you are in so it is difficult to advise you on spare parts suppliers.
I own both Lister and Petter diesel generators and am very happy with the performance. I would recommend you try to find a water cooled model if you can, they are much quieter and can be installed in a sound proof enclosure with just the radiator or a cooling hopper outside, a further option is to use the heat from the water jacket to heat a hot water cylinder via a heat exchanger, free hot water is a blessing.
Exhaust noise can be reduced with readily available mufflers or eliminated by digging an inground exhaust system, depending on the space you have available.
Diesel engines need to be loaded quite heavily to prevent the cylinders becoming glazed. The AVA2 will peak at around 12 HP and would run a generator giving out around 7KVA, if you are only going to be using 5KVA get a 2 bar electric heater and use that extra load to occasionally fully load the genset.
I have recently bought a Petter 3 phase genset. It is air cooled and I will be trying to build it a sound deadening enclosure with louvred doors to three sides. I`ll post some pictures as I go.
good luck, let us know how you go.

Bob

30
Engines / Re: Lister SR1 flywheel removal
« on: June 08, 2023, 08:32:38 AM »
I`m not sure about the SR1 engines but ST engines do not have a neoprene crankshaft seal behind the flywheel. Instead they have a felt seal with a thrower ring on the crankshaft behind it. A couple of possible causes of your problem are: the thrower ring is damaged and no longer doing its job or the drain hole that returns oil into the sump is clogged. Either way you will need to remove the flywheel, a flogging spanner and a 4 pound hammer should do the trick.

Bob

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