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Messages - ajaffa1

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Changfa Engines / Re: Need help with Jiang Dong 1115
« on: September 19, 2019, 01:28:44 PM »
Hi Zeppole, an unusual problem you have there. I am with Mike in saying that the problem does not have anything to do with the injection pump or it`s timing, problems with the pump/timing would prevent your engine from starting.

That leaves a couple of possibilities, the first is that the fuel injector nozzle is weeping after the injector has finished delivering fuel. The fuel pump has a valve in it that is designed to maintain the fuel pressure in the fuel injector line. The fuel injector has a spring loaded valve in it which acts against the pressure in this fuel line, when the injector pump increases the pressure on every other crankshaft revolution the injector is expected to briefly open and then completely close. If it does not completely close it will continue to dribble fuel into the cylinder throughout the cycle and over fuel the engine causing the smoke you report.

Remove the injector, remove the fuel injector nozzle, clean thoroughly and reassemble. Do not tamper with the other end of the fuel injector or you will disturb the pop pressure and have to send it away for re-calibration.

I have never seen an air cooled 1115 so I am assuming your unit is water cooled. With that in mind, the other possibility is that the smoke you are experiencing is steam. This would not be good as it suggests that you may have got to your engine too late and you have frost damage. Start your engine and take the cap off the coolant tank, if you get bubbles you may have a serious problem, alternatively it might just be the head gasket.


Engines / Re: LISTER LR1 & LD1 Fuel Tank Straps
« on: September 19, 2019, 12:27:38 PM »
If you are determined to produce a total replica of the original you will have to fabricate it yourself. If you want a cheap and easy fix take it to your local timber yard, they will have a hand held machine for strapping timber/building materials and etc for haulage. This will be a 1/2" steel band held in place with an aluminium swage. Tell them to turn down the tensioner to the minimum or it will crush your fuel tank. If you put the aluminium cleat out of site no one will ever know the difference.


Hi Gagget and congratulations on your recent acquisitions. You are a lucky man to have such an understanding Wife, I would be tempted to do a deal with her, for every power outage where she is still able enjoy the the luxury of electricity you get one xmas present back.

My Wife is slightly less understanding and believes that I am a deluded old fool living in my own little world! At the end of this month she is going to New Zealand with her Brother for ten days, while she is away I intend to build the new shed for my Lister CS. Once that is done I will have to move the CS into position and commission it.

Casting sand has always been the problem with Indian Listeroid engines, I have even found some in my original Lister CS. Get it stripped down and clean everything until it shines. Glyptal or equivalent treatment to all internal surfaces

Perhaps we can share our experiences and post a lot of photos of how to do it/not do it for the benefit of members.


Petteroids / Re: PETTER - PAZ1 - New project
« on: September 17, 2019, 11:29:40 AM »
Well done VP, looks like the crops are going as well as your engine rebuilds.

I have been busy restoring old generator coils, nothing wrong with the coils just the insulation on the wires coming out of them. Got the coils back in the generator today, looking good so far.


Listeroid Engines / Re: I thought I was a bit ......
« on: September 15, 2019, 10:31:52 AM »
Hi 2Ton46, sorry you haven`t found the woman of you dreams but I respect your decision to spend as much time as you can with your Father, while he is still with us and I am glad to hear that his cancer scare has passed.

My Father passed 30 years ago and there isn`t a day goes by that I don`t miss him, make the most of it while you can, and keep posting photos of you wonderful inventions.


Engines / Re: valve job
« on: September 15, 2019, 10:12:56 AM »
Hi Chefiam1, generaly I would strip down the cylinder heads, remove the rocker assembly, valve springs and valves. I would clean the heads of all the crap and deliver them to the machine shop in their barest form, along with the new valves, guides and seats if you have them. Engineers/machinists charge for their time the more you can do for yourself the less it will cost you.

The other advantage of this approach is that you can clean and check the rocker assemblies and etc while waiting for the machinist to do his job.


Engines / Re: Replacing expensive old imperial bearings
« on: September 15, 2019, 09:57:42 AM »
Wow Cobbadog, what a beauty an absolute credit to you, your skills and perseverance.

I won`t be posting any photos of the one I have been helping with. After sitting outside for ten years it needs a lot of new body panels, new instrument panel, new instruments and switches and etc. My next job on it will be to build it a new wiring loom so we can get some of the instruments working even if the dashboard has a lot too many rust holes in it.


Petteroids / Re: PETTER - PAZ1 - New project
« on: September 14, 2019, 11:00:51 AM »
Well done VP, looks like your detective work is starting to pay off, lets hope one of our American cousins has a service manual hidden away.


Engines / Re: Replacing expensive old imperial bearings
« on: September 14, 2019, 09:56:47 AM »
Hey Cobbadog, I did a lot of work on a David Brown tractor recently and one thing I know is that they are not crap! A neighbor of mine got this tractor for free, the previous owner had a problem with it and had taken off the cylinder head in a field. He then decided it was too much trouble to repair it and left it there for ten years, pistons full of water and etc. We had to hone the cylinders and fit new piston rings, we fired it up about 7 weeks back and she ran sweet as, blows a lot of smoke but that will settle down with a bit of work under a heavy load.

Bearings come in so many different configurations it is always a good idea to consult your local supplier, very unusual to baffle him with something he has not seen before.


Engines / Re: tl2 piston
« on: September 14, 2019, 09:38:14 AM »
Hi Chefiam1, sound like you have a bit of a jigsaw puzzle to assemble. If the mechanic who disassembled it was any good he would have punched some witness marks into the cylinders and the crankcase. Look for center punch marks, a single on one and two on the other. He should have done the same with the cylinder heads, if not do not panic. The cylinders and pistons are likely to be identical and interchangeable. While it is always better to fit them back in their original positions honing the cylinders and fitting new piston rings should sort out the problem.

The first thing you need to do is get yourself a copy of the service manual, these are available from a lot of online stores depending on what country you live in. Despite what the mechanic told you spares are available, you just need to know where to look, this also depends on which country/continent you live in.


Petteroids / Re: PETTER - PAZ1 - New project
« on: September 13, 2019, 01:17:28 PM »
Hi VP, I started on rewiring the 60 year lighting plant today. The cloth covered rubber insulation on the wires has perished and they all need to be replaced. I am hoping your new generator head is in better condition but if not I am hoping that my approach to this will help you.

First thing to understand is that this unit has four sets of coil windings one set for north/south pole for generation and a second set for turning the generator into a starter motor. The set I have been playing with today is the starter motor windings. They are solid copper windings with a cloth insulation. When these were made the cloth would have been in perfect condition, they would have wound the coil around a former and then soldered on the external wires as needed. The coil would then have been tied up tight, with cloth, before the whole thing was immersed in varnish. Back in the 1950`s this would probably have been a shellac based varnish.

This process ensured good insulation between the coil and also fixed them in place to ensure no movement or chafing between the layers, under load. So what can we do to restore them without having to send them for an expensive rewind? The first thing is to check the resistance between each end of the coil. We do not want to see either 0 ohms or infinity ohms, in between is good.

The second job is to very carefully remove the cloth covering that holds the coil together, this will give access to the soldered connections between the solid copper core and the more flexible interconnection wires. Now cut out the damaged wires and replace them using crimp connectors with the plastic covering removed. (be sure to clean the wires before trying to solder them) Crimp them tight and then solder them in place, now cover the joint with heat shrink, I like to use two layers of heat shrink

The next job is to put some surgical tape around any part of the coil that has movement in it, now immerse the entire coil assembly in polyurethane varnish, let it soak right in before removing and allowing to dry, brush off any excess varnish to avoid drips/runs and etc. Leave to dry.

Next is to wrap the coil to make sure it cannot come apart. I have tried all sorts of insulation and cloth tapes and have found that Micropore surgical tape is second to none; it is cheap, strong, porous, self adhesive and readily available but most important of all the adhesive does not dissolve in polyurethane varnish. Once you have wrapped your coil with Micropore tape it`s back for another swim in varnish, pull it out, brush off any drips or runs and let it dry for a day or two.

When done it should look something like the photos below.


Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: oil seal Lister CS8-1
« on: September 13, 2019, 10:36:29 AM »
Further to my earlier post, it may be possible to lift out the cam tappet that drives the injector pump. Drop a magnet probe down the hole and lift out the unwanted part that way.


Engines / Re: tl2 piston
« on: September 13, 2019, 10:08:25 AM »
Hi Chefiam1, I have to say that piston does not look good, what does the other one look like? It would appear that there has been a serious problem, either the valves have been badly adjusted so they hit the piston or the bump stop is incorrect (clearance between the top of the piston and the cylinder head). Another possibility is that the cam timing is out causing the valves to open too early or close too late causing interference between the valves and piston. Was this engine running or did you buy it as a project?


Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: oil seal Lister CS8-1
« on: September 13, 2019, 09:44:25 AM »
Hi Vegoil,, I am so used to Listeroid engines that I forgot that the original Lister engines were slightly different, the cam follower on the end of the oil pump plunger shaft had a tee shaped hardened steel wearing surface pressed into it. Modern replacements do not have this. It should be possible to remove the original with a few sharp taps with a hammer on the square base plate. This should allow you to withdraw the shaft but will leave the small cam follower inside the engine, it may be possible to remove this with a magnetic probe by removing the crankcase door and working through one of the two holes in the camshaft drive gear, not something I have ever tried. If that fails you will need to remove the flywheel and governor housing.

Good luck,


Petteroids / Re: PETTER - PAZ1 - New project
« on: September 12, 2019, 01:39:42 PM »
Well done VP, yes it will run at 1500 or 3000 for 50 HZ or it will run 1800 or 3600 for 60 HZ, I am guessing at 3 KVA continuous but will cope with 5 KVA for short periods. The voltage regulation is via the bridge rectifier, as the current demand increases the current being fed through the field windings also increases thus regulating the voltage, the voltage stability is governed by the accuracy and response of the governor on the driving engine. It is possible to replace the bridge rectifier with an automatic voltage regulator to improve the output stability. If you want to run sensitive electronic devices I would recommend an AVR, if you want to run lights and power tools don`t worry about it.

Please pass on my best wishes to Butch.


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