Hi VP, I had a look at this and did some research today. That AVR is not suitable for what you have, it requires six wires and your diagram only shows four. There are some more suitable four wire  AVRs available on Ebay search for GAVR, some require a 9 volt battery to initialise them.

Bob

G`Day, sorry I didn`t post yesterday but a bit of a long day.  Mounted the engine on its chassis without breaking my back and manage to get the inlet and exhaust manifold stripped and painted with a high temperature paint, promises to be good to 1200 degrees. I`ll believe it when I see it! Photos attached.
Today was spent stripping and cleaning fuel injectors, aluminium injector coolers and a bucket full of rusty nuts and bolts, pics tomorrow.

Bob

G`Day, as promised attached photo of engine with red oxide primer.
Managed to clean up and prime the flywheel and some other parts. I was wondering about the date of this Petter, I found a date stamped into the starter gear ring stating that it was shrunk on 11 76 so I`m guessing this refers to November 1976, so this motor was probably assembled in late 76 or early 77.
Nice set of timing marks at 23 & 26 degrees before and after TDC for each cylinder, don`t know if these refer to valve timing or spill timing or both, time to check the instruction manual.

Bob

G`day everyone, today I degrased the PJ2 and rubbed down all the loose flaking paint and it now has a new coat of red oxide primer. No photos as my camera had a flat battery. will take some shots in the morning.
I also had the time to check out the generator head. This has seen very little use judging by the wear on the slip rings( no ridges). This is a transformer fed generator with 6 power diodes feeding the field windings. All of the windings and diodes show continuity with a multimeter and the transformers also tested ok. So this unit will be stripped, cleaned, bearings will be greased or replaced, bearing seals will be replaced. The armature will be cleaned and have two coats of polyurethane varnish to the windings and the slip rings will get a clean.
I will remove the four field winding coils and they will also be cleaned and have two coats of polyurethane varnish.
I will need to replace all of the radio frequency suppression capacitors as they are all blown to pieces.
Photos attached

Bob

G`day everyone. Not a bad days work, the PJ2  has been stripped down as far as I am going to go, no significant problems were found except for a lot of perished rubber/neoprene seals, these will all be replaced. There was a lot of detritus between the cylinder cooling vanes, largely mud wasps nests, mouse sh1t, leaves and dead spiders; degreaser, a wire brush and a pressure washer has got rid of the problem.
I hate working on British machinery of this vintage, late seventies thru early eighties. Britain was going through metrication so this thing has UNC, UNF and Metric nuts and bolts, two sets of spanners and 2 socket sets required. spent half the day trying to find the right tools for the job. A few nuts had to be removed with an adjustable spanner, not 1/2" nor 9/16" , 13mm too small and a 14mm spanner is too big, I`m thinking they may be old Whitworth sizes.
Another worrying issue is that most of the nuts and bolts were little more than finger tight, according to the hour meter this engine has done less than 100 hours from new and the service manual does stipulate checking for tightness at it`s first service at 250 hours. I guess that it has never had that first service and that a lot of the gaskets have shrunk over the last 40 years.
I`ll start ordering the bits needed tomorrow. I`m still looking for advice about replacing the plastic seals on the pushrod tubes.
A couple of pics attached.

Bob

Very nice work Ernie. I can`t help you with a wiring diagram, I have only ever worked on single phase Brush generator heads.

Bob

Hi BruceV, if you are in Australia try contacting Rob at Old Timer Engines, he may not have what you need but he will know where to look.

Bob