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Messages - mikenash

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61
Listeroid Engines / Re: My fix for Listeroid light flicker
« on: May 04, 2022, 08:05:05 AM »

mikenash,

Engine/Generator --> Battery Charger --> Battery Bank --> Inverter --> Clean Power

Should work.

I would hope so, yes.  I'm just playing with a few hundred watts of solar and a few a/h of lead-acid right now and I've been a bit precious about the LiFePos - but they're getting cheaper & they're coming as a unit with a smart BMS these days . . .  I guess we'll see.  Cheers

62
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: May 03, 2022, 08:22:28 AM »
I have the sheave and bearing already on the way ..

I'd rather have a roller bearing - bearing, but iv got what's called a deep Grove bearing on the way

I'd be surprised if your gen head was doing more than 3000 RPMs, so a deep-groove ball-bearing will be just fine.  If you have bought a ball bearing and a housing  - it may be that the dimension from the base of the bearing to the centre of the shaft - effectively your deck height - is not the same as the original unit as they will be a different kind of housing.  Anyway, sounds like progress.  I will watch with interest

63
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: May 02, 2022, 08:10:47 PM »
The lock ring ( the thing with the fingers ) is still playable

The Nut ( I still think it's a nut ) is still stuck ... I know I have 2 24" pipe wrench,  but currently can only find one.

So tried with a large set of vicegrips and one pipe wrench ... no movement yet. So I put some heat to the nut again and sprayed it with penetration oil ... then walked away.

I dont want to cut it off ... it might be a pain finding a replacement nut with the head still unknown to me as to who made the darn thing.

Fair call.  But I suspect you'll find that the taper sleeve, the nut, the locking ring and the bearing are all just "off the shelf" components.  If you took that photo to a bearing shop and asked them . . . .

64
Listeroid Engines / Re: My fix for Listeroid light flicker
« on: May 02, 2022, 08:07:51 PM »


The 50A alternator is wired directly to the batteries and the uses the voltage regulator in the alternator to control current/voltage when the engine is running.
The "Intronix Power" 25A, 24 volt solar charge controller (CC) is not connected to the alternator in any way.
Solar panels connect to the input of the CC and the the output of the CC is wired directly to the battery posts.
So, two separate charging systems connected to the same battery.

good luck with your system build,
veggie
[/quote]

Interesting.  I have a cheapie 12v solar system with a couple of panels, an MPPT controller, and a bunch of lead-acids.  When I run the genset, I use its 12VDC wiring to charge the batteries as well - cos, why not

I wonder if this is feasible with a modern system - lLiFePo, batteries, Victron inverter/charge controller, panels etc?

Either one of the petrol gensets, or the CS & Chinese ST-clone head will make horrible choppy 230 VAC which some appliances don't like.  I was considering just buying a 230VAC-24VDC decent-sized battery charger suitable for use with LiFePos and attaching it direct to battery bank for those occasions when it's overcast for days at a time

Thoughts?  Cheers

65
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: April 30, 2022, 12:58:00 AM »
Thanks for the extra info Mike about the bearing and lock ring. I was going to ask if it was a screw on or shrink fit lock ring. Only way off for that lock ring if hitting the outter edge with a cold chisel doesl expand it enough is to cut it off. But again heat might be you friend on it too.

Cool.  I'd encourage you to google around and look at SKF sites for taper sleeves etc - then you'll see what you have there

It's in the nature of bearing races that they are very hard - and brittle.  Once you're sure you know what the bits you have are - you can geit it off the shaft by cutting it into pieces.  the outer race will be easy - if you cut it in two place at 180 degrees, it'll just fall off.  Ditto the lightweight cage and rollers.  If you can undo the locking ring or cut it off - then the taper of the inside of the inner race of the bearing and the outside of the sleeve (the two tapers that lock together) will work in your favour.  With a bit of penetrating oil and patience you may simply be able to tap the bearing last part - the inner race - in towards the windings.  Even a mm or two will be enough to break the taper between the two bit so they'll come off the shaft.

the way to get your head around it is to think of the thread and the nut as "pulling" the tapered sleeve through the bearing to tighten it onto the shaft

Anyway, if you have to cut off the inner race - you can cut 90% of the way through it  (so you don't cut into the shaft - although it won't matter if you do a bit) in three or four places and then give it a few decent smacks with a hammer and cold chisel to exploit its brittle-ness - and it should just fly apart

Wear goggles or face protection - bearing shards are unbelievably sharp

Good luck


66
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: April 29, 2022, 09:03:56 AM »
Google "taper roller bearing on adaptor sleeve"  Might be 35mm?  Measure the outside diameter of the bearing & the diameter of the shaft, cut it off in pieces & buy another one from any bearing shop.  It's two bits:  A bearing with a tapered I/D and a sleeve with a tapered O/D and a nut to tighten it.  Have a google - you'll see.  They usually work in pairs "against" each other - so maybe there's another one at the other end too?  Good luck

67
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: head gaskets
« on: April 29, 2022, 06:35:38 AM »
Hi ChevellRCR  I won't know about quality until one is fitted and has done some hours

But this gentleman, John, from Gaskets-to-go (check him out at www.gasketstogo.com)  has a very good reputation.  I actually dealt mostly with his sister - who does some of the selling I think?  Excellent service from both of them.  It's in the nature of his work that most of his transactions are small - and it wouldn't have surprised me if they didn't want to communicate much for small-$$ transactions.  But that wasn't the case at all - they were great

Price was around $18USD each I think?  I'm down in New Zealand - I think it probably cost me about $100 or $120NZD for four of them delivered

I had a CS with a leak in the head - but with recent running it no longer seems to be leaking, so I may not fit one any time very soon.  That said, I may have jinxed it and it'll leak tomorrow

68
Original Lister Cs Engines / head gaskets
« on: April 27, 2022, 01:37:29 AM »
Bought four CS head gaskets from the nice Gaskets-to-go chap

They look like a great bit of work

69
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: April 26, 2022, 08:07:12 PM »
Yes, picture of the pulley would help

If it's just a pulley for an A,B or C-section belt - they're effectively "off the shelf" with systems such as Taper-Lok to attach to the shaft

if you know:  Belt size (A, B. c etc), number of belts, diameter of shaft and dimensions of keyway - any company that supplies drive components can help you with pulleys and centre inserts such as a Taper-Lok or similar; and an machinist can bore/key-cut that centre insert to fit the shaft and the key

Picture will be a good start.  Good luck

70
Engines / Re: Oil Filtration video results
« on: April 26, 2022, 06:41:02 AM »
Interesting.  Folks have been dismissive of those toilet paper units - and I'm sure they're right, in terms of their particular experience/application.  But in the 50s/60s/70 the British built petrol-engined Bedford trucks we had here (of which I have owned three) had toilet-roll filters and I have never heard anything but good reviews of them.  They were an "upgrade" lol

71
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: April 21, 2022, 07:28:06 PM »
Just a comment on the above advice about 'drilling it out" . . .

While that is the last resort, of course, it may be worth mentioning that grub screws are hard - I have found they will resist drilling quite strenuously.  I guess if it was heated until it glowed and then allowed to cool it might be de-tempered

If it really cannot be removed, what I would try next is:

Heat it up with butane or a gas-plant until it glows, then leave it to cool

spray INOX or your lube of choice all over it repeatedly so it has the best chance to sink in (heating the grub screw will have "burnt" some of the material between the screw and the body and a penetrant should now soak in better)

Find the allen key (metric or imperial) that is just slightly too large and cut a straight section off the arm of it with a nice square end

Using a small cutting disc on the angle grinder, cut a shallow groove in each of the six faces of the hex key/allen key

Use something small and pointed plus compressed air to clean out the hex on the top of the grub screw thoroughly

Then HAMMER your modified/butchered hex key/allen key into the top of the grub screw.  It needs to be TIGHT

The put a big spanner or vice grips on the shaft of that allen key and twist

If that doesn't work - I guess drilling is next.  You may like to research "left-handed drill bits"

Good luck

72
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: April 19, 2022, 07:34:23 PM »
As said, someone has put the pulley and taper-clock assembly on backwards

Obviously you can't get into the back to swap grub-screws from "tightening" to "loosening" holes.  But whoever put it on wouldn't have been able to tighten the two taper halves against each other, either - as he couldn't get at the grub-screws

So, probably, it has been slid/tapped/hammered onto the shaft and is now retained in place by the grub-screw which is on top of the keyway?  Possibly also another grub-screw at 90 degrees to that?  That would be common practise.  I would think getting that/them out may allow you to use a puller and get the pulley off the shaft

If it will move at all, and if you have access to a three-jaw puller - perhaps consider tapping it further along the shaft a millimeter or two so that you can clean the shaft properly before pulling it off

Good luck

73
General Discussion / Re: Welding from a Listeroid/ST generator rig
« on: April 18, 2022, 08:04:27 PM »
Fwiw we use a couple of $400 180A inverter welders at work (one of which belongs to me, personally) off of a Chinese generator and have done so for over a decade at the cost of just one welder, which was very second-hand at the time, anyway.  We use an 11kVA generator and it doesn't really notice when the load comes on - no real drop in revs or whatever.  I have been told that is the secret to looking after both generator and welder.  Our local hire company won't hire you anything smaller than about 15kW if you tell them you're welding - they say it "blows up" the generators sometimes too.   Cheers

74
Engines / Re: SR2 starter replacement
« on: April 13, 2022, 08:05:44 AM »
The air-cooled Listers we have on pumpsets at work are louder than that. I'd say it sounds normal

75
Listeroid Engines / Re: Top quality Listeroid exporter
« on: April 10, 2022, 07:40:24 AM »
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPBrGu09J9U

This guy's interesting about what he needed to do to the Listeroid to get it good:

Rust in the tank, injector full of crud, fuel system leaked like a sieve, deck all wrong, leaked at the head . . .

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