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Messages - mikenash

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16
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: SR-1 governor mystery
« on: October 07, 2019, 07:44:18 AM »
Excuse me if I'm telling you something you already know but the GITS seals are built-up I think?

If you have ID and OD and depth you may simply be able to order it from a bearing/seal manufacturer like SKF

See link?

Perhaps from this you can generate a part number?

Cheers

https://www.gitsmfg.com/shaft-seals/

17
Everything else / Re: Lithium batteries, the care and feeding of
« on: October 03, 2019, 01:09:59 AM »
An adjustable power supply capable of at least 3 amps at 15V will do your equalization after the battery has already been charged to full via PV. 

I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JCRG6G6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It can also be used current limited, to charge any battery to a set voltage at a current rate that is safe for that battery.  I use 7-15 AH  sealed batteries in 12 and 6 volt for electronics development work and it's nice for those.  It also works nicely on 120VDC which is handy for me. I have other 12, 24V chargers but none have equalization capability.  Apparently good consumers are supposed to just buy new batteries more often.  I have one AGM battery that is still in service at 12 years.  It was my house/shop 12V battery, demoted at 8 yrs to House of Lister battery, which is low capacity, mostly float service, and it doesn't get annual equalization any more.  It was a 110AH Universal Battery AGM, a bargain on sale.

The percent of charge shown by your controller is utterly bogus.  If it's 10.8V, it's done, 0.
Being left in that state is sure to cause serious sulphation.  A careful equalization charge might save it for a while.

Hi Bruce

yes, I figured anything under an actual 12.2 was probably toast

Last time I was up there was just for a few hours, and without a multimeter so I just figured I'll worry about it later

That PWM "controller" is a piece of Chinese junk I suspect.  But I bought the whole lot for not much more than the value of the panel, so what the hell.  LKearning & making mistakes on some expensive "proper" stuff - that would be a mistake . . .

Cheers

18
Everything else / Re: Lithium batteries, the care and feeding of
« on: October 02, 2019, 06:54:01 AM »
Mikenash, if you haven't done it already, I suggest a careful equalization, 15.1V charge on your AGM battery, 3-4 hrs.  That will recover a sulphated cell.   AGM's are murdered by sulphation and also by drying out from regular overcharge.  Natural death in small DOD applications is around 8+ years.

Thanks Bruce.  Next time I go up there I'll take the smart charger thingie from work if it has a "high" setting.  But 15.1 seems very specific?  I'd be interested in how the layman achieves that?

I bought the 100A/H battery, PWM cheapie, equally cheap inverter & panel all for (I think) $300 off a bloke who said it had been sitting in the garage "for a while" so history is uncertain . . . I made the mistake of leaving what turned out to be a faulty inverter attached one time I came back to find the display saying something like 10.8V and 55%.  So it may be dead or it may have come back up by now.  We'll see. 

Cheers

19
Everything else / Re: Lithium batteries, the care and feeding of
« on: October 01, 2019, 05:10:23 PM »
Good advice & my thoughts too.  Cheers

20
Excellent Ed

I'd like to own a small lathe for similar reasons and maybe one day I will . . .

I can't see any reason to remain seriously "on topic" Lister-wise.  Where's the fun in that?

Cheers

21
Everything else / Re: Lithium batteries, the care and feeding of
« on: October 01, 2019, 08:26:14 AM »
 Cool.  Thanks

The Bay of Plenty property where I spend a bit of time has lots of sunshine but I'm only there for the odd weekend or long weekend. To save using a noisy generator just for a few watts (lights, electric blanket - to keep that woman happy lol, small fridge - etc) I spent $300 on a panel (200W I thinK?  I forget, AGM 100 A/H battery and a cheapie PWM controller & inverter.

Due to some bad planning I let it get down to about 50% and I think it's on the way out - so I need to think about replacement

The thing that bothers me with the lifepo's is the cold.  I THINK it's OK for them to get cold, but not to be charged when it's cold

Will have to do some more homework

Well done on the battery upgrade  :)

22
Everything else / Re: Lithium batteries, the care and feeding of
« on: October 01, 2019, 07:37:05 AM »
Mr Starfire.  You're back.  Excellent.  I was just talking about you . . .

I'm interested to hear how the lifepo's will go long-term.  I just killed my (cheap, 2nd-hand) AGM by neglect and absenteeism and am mulling over replacements

Cheers

23
Listeroid Engines / Re: Gadget's DES 8/1 Stamford build
« on: September 29, 2019, 06:37:13 AM »
It looks like a goodie

I guess the stories of the Rajkot machines that come with horrors like pockets of sand or funny machined-finish angles are the stories that get remembered and revisited.  Averages suggest there will be goodies as well I guess

FWIW when I had a stubborn key to remove I had two tapered cold-chisels in behind it - smacking them in like wedges & eventually it yielded

Well done

24
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: oil seal Lister CS8-1
« on: September 27, 2019, 05:31:54 PM »
If you have heated it enough and then it has since cooled - with a bit of luck you have damaged the bond between the slightly different materials of the key (steel) and the flywheel (cast iron) which has formed from rust & weather over decades

If you get a handful of something like plasticine (kid's play-dough stuff) and clean up the shaft and flywheel hub area so that will stick to it, then use the plasticine to make a weir/dam around the key and the face of the flywheel so that you can actually soak the key/keyway submerged in INOX for a couple of days or a week - with a bit of luck & patience it will soak right through

I Like INOX as a penetrant, others here have concoctions of ATF and solvents . . .

When it comes to the puller and force "more is better" within limits. You can do something like butting the end of a length of 20mm HT threaded rod up to the end of the key, cutting a bit of steel flat to sit vertical on top of the stub of the key and the threaded stock, welding the two together, and using the threaded rod as the basis for a meatier puller?

I have seen illustrations of that sort of build here from time to time - someone may chime in?

Good luck

25
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Why it is bad to use motor oil as fuel !.
« on: September 27, 2019, 07:23:49 AM »
Once it has burnt all the oil in the sump it'll eventually stop lol

26
A stripped-clean engine casting is a thing of beauty in terms of its potential for however-good a finish you want.  Although you may find casting holes filled with chalk/putty - there's nothing to stop you filling them with something better, finishing the surfaces to however-much Bling you like, and painting to suit - knowing that the paint will stick properly

27
Perhaps worth making the comment that setting valve timing by "clearance" may well not yield these settings?  And that ignoring clearance - as long as there's (a) some, and (b) not so much the rocker arm falls off the pushrod, and setting the valve timing to the two important settings (intake opening and zorst closing) seems to be the rule?

28
Changfa Engines / Re: Need help with Jiang Dong 1115
« on: September 20, 2019, 03:28:40 AM »
You may have dodged a “runaway” bullet there . . .

29
Hi there

I’m looking forward to watching the build with interesr

FWIW if you’re looking at cleaning up the ports & bluprinting the motor - I guess you’re doing that for your own satisfaction?  I would think these old air-gulper engines would resist “tuning” to quite a degree?  There will be experts here who will know

Interesting project Cheers

30
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lost 38AC stuff on Camshaft Understanding
« on: September 12, 2019, 09:17:04 AM »
Yes, I have watched them many a time when wondering "how to" some engine job

I imagine Ade will sing out if I have infringed.  Cheers

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