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Messages - mikenash

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General Discussion / Re: A Pulley On Each Flywheel?
« on: July 20, 2021, 07:47:34 PM »
Thank you!  I am not sure which kind of clutch assembly I would use.  I just learned about these engines a couple of months ago.  I like what I have learned so far - the durability, economy and simplicity.  Cons - heavier than a "modern diesel" but I think I can accept that.  It look like something that I could take apart and fix myself, which is a huge plus!

So far, the optimal solution is: belt to air compressor; belt to generator (the generator will power charging for a 48v battery pack, as well as other tools); and belt to water pump;

When I get my specs drawn up I will be back with more questions.

Here in NZ the Listers were used very widely until the '70s in rural areas.  The thing they did most of was drive shearing sheds (sheep).  This was done with a flat-belt drive from the Lister to an overhead lay-shaft - often five or ten or 15 metres long, which drove multiple shearing "stations"

Your engine would easily drive a lay-shaft from which you could take other drive - then you'd have modern pulleys, bushing, hub-centres, bearings etc.  Easy to work with.  Cheers

Listeroid Engines / Re: Metro 12/2 rebuild
« on: July 20, 2021, 07:43:36 PM »
Pins are tapered?  Cheers

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 6/1 Lister injector specifications
« on: July 20, 2021, 06:00:06 AM »
Depending on where you live - there are plenty of new injectors for sale; and they aren't very expensive

General Discussion / Re: Utility trailer
« on: July 13, 2021, 08:24:48 PM »
Yes, sorry for being so vague but I would run a generator off the Lister. Your choice as to if it is a Lister combination unit or a blended set up using a new model generator. Yes electric compressor and avoid line shafts and pulleys at all costs, too dangerous and can get stuff caught up in them. Of course you can run air tools as well when set up this way.
Mike, I can see why you had the rocking motion, it is because the flywheels are running forward and backward. If the engine was rotated 90' to have the flywheels facing across the trailer and over the axle then the motion would be very minimal, but this creates a slight issue in starting it up unless a starter is adapted whether it be friction drive or other.
I like your video Mike. One way of helping you steady up the trailer when in action is a set of 4 swing down caravan stabilizer legs. They can swing down then they are wound down via use of a crank.

Hey, yes, that was just a temporary thing as I had (a) an old trailer frame lying around (b) a Lister undergoing a rebuild some 400 Ks from its eventual home (and c) too many years on my old bones to be trying to crank something that wasn't sitting in the right place at the right height

I reckon a heavy trailer and some feet would work well


Everything else / Re: Lithium cell balancing
« on: July 13, 2021, 08:21:04 PM »
Hey Starfire I wonder if you would like to chime in here?

It's a topic that interests me too as I need to deal with a situation where solar-charged batteries are often unused & unattended for weeks/months, and where they can be charged at sub-zero temps on a crisp, sunny winter's morning

I know you know what you're talking about; and I guess you have a couple of years under your belt using the new LIFEPOs

Cheers, Mike

General Discussion / Re: Utility trailer
« on: July 12, 2021, 08:22:15 PM »
See?  Probably be fine with a heavier trailer


General Discussion / Re: Utility trailer
« on: July 12, 2021, 08:04:01 PM »
FWIW I ran my CS6/1 on a trailer for a while before it went to its permanent home.  Because of the suspension it ran with a rocking motion that took over the trailer and even had the car it was attached to rocking a bit. That was just a single-axle car trailer

I'll see if I can dig out a video and post a link

I'd think you would need possibly a tandem-axle trailer PLUS some way to tie it down if it had a permanent spot to live?  Unless of course you have a heavy tow vehicle and can make a big trailer that weighs a couple of tonnes so that the Lister's mass is irrelevant to it


Waste Motor Oil / Re: 3/4" needle valve
« on: June 27, 2021, 08:28:38 PM »
Sorry, Duh

Waste Motor Oil / Re: 3/4" needle valve
« on: June 24, 2021, 01:16:26 AM »
Hi Mike,

That one you linked is for hydraulic service and has a one-way check valve in it.  Gravity won't open the check, so unless you can remove the check valve I doubt it will work.

Hi guys

That cheap little valve is good as it is - no mods needed

The tank is only about 250mm above it, but will adjust and stay consistent anywhere from a very slow drip to a stream of whatever size is wanted

I'm keen to fit it and have a play

I attach links to two very short, very crappy-quality, but quite self-explanatory vids




Engines / Re: Noisy CS 8/1
« on: June 22, 2021, 04:01:46 AM »
In place of a stethoscope, the handle of a screwdriver can be held up to your ear or temple, with the blade pushed against parts... obviously this only works when you don't have to put your head in the flywheels!

The long screwdriver works well if you wear earmuffs and hold the end of the handle of the screwdriver hard against the plastic cup of the earmuff

Waste Motor Oil / Re: 3/4" needle valve
« on: June 20, 2021, 08:32:54 PM »
Hi guys

lol check-valve yes.  Maybe it needs to come out - we'll see

But it blows air through at mouth pressure OK . . .

We'll see lol

Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 17, 2021, 11:59:08 PM »
   I was reading some posts about makeshift bearing journal repairs and there were surprisingly few mentions of babbit metal. Our early American railroad westward expansion was built with babbit bearings. The unique feature of this material was easy field repairs without needing machine shop equipment or having to keep a large inventory of spare parts. My grandfather use to often talk about this metal. In today's times with shortages all over, maybe it's time to re-visit this material.

   There are many different variations of babbit alloys for high speed, low speed, heavy loads, ect.. If I remember right, the metal expands slightly when it solidifies, so it adheres well to clean and properly prepared bearing case bores. Sometimes these bearing case bores were just rough cast using green sand molds at the cast iron foundry with no machining needed before the babbit was poured in. The shafts were simply coated with some greasy release material or special paint, centered in the bore and the metal poured in. Clay was often used to seal the bottom and any gaps, and if an oil hole was needed, a coated steel, or iron rod was inserted before pouring. After pouring, and when cooled, the shaft was removed easily if everything was done right, and the proper clearances were hand scraped into the bearing bore, along with smoothing out any imperfections.

   Also, the metal was extensively recycled in the field. When a bearing got excessively worn, the old metal was removed, often by melting, then it was re-melted and some extra metal added to make up for metal lost from wear and any melting slag, then re-poured back into the bearing case to form the renewed bearing.

   If babbit can support locomotives weighing more than 100 tons, it ought to work well for any emergency Lister repair if you choose the correct alloy, and I believe the early Lister's actually did use babbit. Henry Ford was likely responsible for the demise of the widespread use of this metal because he needed interchangeable parts for his auto manufacturing.  Although babbit was used in the early replaceable bearings, it was not well suited for thin coatings inside replaceable steel bearing shells.

   Sometimes modern technology throw's the baby out with the bathwater. Seldom does new technology actually completely eliminate the use or need for all of the older technologies. There is always some nich that only one type of technology does the best. We should think of new technology as adding another useful tool to the technology "toolbox", but not going and hastefully dumping out all of the other tools that will always have some special uses.
Modify message.

Catch up with Starfire here, and ask him about the coke-can-big-end shell adaptions - or just search for it here

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS Crank Keyway: 14mm not 9/16"
« on: June 16, 2021, 08:23:14 PM »
Thank you sirpedrosa.

Thanks for looking into this. I agree that It makes no sense for Lister to be making a metric keyway in the 1930's given the imperial system was widely used. My engine was built in 1939 based on the serial number information. The only parts on the mine that have metric components (as far as I have seen) are the fuel pumps that have a metric banjo. However, I have seen other folks mention the confusion around the crank keyway and 14mm.  It appears you were able to machine your own keys and fit them accurately using the 9/16" stock you purchased. So at least I have one other person that has done this :) 

I have come to the conclusion that the Keys that I purchased are useless paper weights given how far below 9/16" they are. I placed a new order to get a set from the UK. They are actually 9/16". It may be helpful for those CS owners who are looking to replace their Gib Keys to ask for the measurement of width before purchasing. 

The specifications for tapered key design are clear and a wide gap in the keyway is not acceptable. I have cross checked this across many references including DIN, British and US standards of the past and present.  A key without correct tolerances on the width will be problematic independent of how well the taper is matched. Any forces that arise due to slightest flywheel imbalances will cause the key to come loose unless it was driven in by excessive force which caused deformation to the hub.


Hey Moe

I guess any new Gib keys are mostly ex-India

Certainly excessive force & distortion of the hub is their normal method when it comes to installing.  Have a look at a vid or two lol

Waste Motor Oil / Re: 3/4" needle valve
« on: June 15, 2021, 08:24:39 PM »
Hi Yes, I have a 4 micron filter drum.  But my oil is effectively "new" anyway - I've had no issues to date with blockages

What I have is gearbox oil with no combustion by-products or casual mixing with engine filter bits or brake fluid or whatever - and then diluted a little with diesel as I establish what works & what doesn't.  Its only contaminants are metal particles from gear wear - and I'm hoping that by letting 200-litre drums stand for a few years and then just using the top 80% or so, that these will simply "gravity out".  It seems to be very, very non-hygroscopic - when we drain gearboxes there tends to be a teaspoon or two of "clean" water in the bottom if the water-trap diaphragms have failed; but there doesn't seem to be mixture

I'll bring the feed assembly home this weekend and fit that valve below the existing isolating valve.  I'm keen to see if I can get an improved drip consistency within the limits of temperature/hydraulic pressure etc

Mihit - no, no question.  Just an observation - there had been some conversation around the use of needle valves.  But good-looking ones are expensive - so I'm keen to have a play with this Chinese cheapie


Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS Crank Keyway: 14mm not 9/16"
« on: June 15, 2021, 08:14:29 PM »
I don't think I've measured a key or a keyway in my life!

I Just hand-fit (file and emery paper) and there should be no discenable slop. This goes for everything from high-torque (like large flywheel) applications to fast electric motors.

Mihit, these tapered Gib Keys are potentially different to what you might see in motors & drives?  In that they aren't held "down" by a grub screw but by the taper.  So some of the "fit" is in the force needed to hammer them home until they are "tight enough"  If you watch a vid or two of the Indian blokes assembling them with a big whack from a big sledgehammer - you'll see what I mean.  It wouldn't surprise me if they are expanding in two dimensions under that force

Just a thought.  Cheers

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