Hi Ed

I can't open the photo's of the bush, may well be me, A, i'm crap with the www, B I'm using a Chromebook and I've yet to master the little bugger!

Anyway, I'm off down to Spain to give a rich blokes 35m Med Sled a good thick coat of looking at, one of the engines is out of line with the gearbox and is trying to vibrate it's self to death. After the CS walking around the workshop I'll probably struggle to find anything.

The good news is I'll get a go in a shipyard and should be able to get a bush knocked up. I've not had time sort out how exactly much offset I need, by feel it was around a mil and a half (60 thou) how far out was yours?

Cheers Stef

Ref the cold start problem

It was -1 c up here in the Pyrenees last night, my 6/1, which lives in a stone barn at the top of the field, started first swing, ok it was a decent 'swing'!

It's running on white (road) diesel.

As the weather gets colder I'll keep cranking and reporting.....

Cheers Stef

Hi Guys

Thanks for tutorial and the pointers, it's given me plenty to think about and confirmed what I thought and probably lessened the element of danger in my 'little knowledge'

Cheers Stef

So,

A synchronous motor connected by a belt to a 6/1 and geared to turn at 'no load' speed with the Lister running at 550 rpm would act as a starter, then as the Lister over rev'd it would overdrive the motor and back feed the grid, either rewinding the meter or 'clocking up' credit at a rate agreed with the power company...........

Or not........

I started off wondering how a constant load could be applied to a genset using a 3 phase motor, and what you could do with the excess power as the domestic load fluctuated without using complicated control equipment

As I'm sure most of you have realised by now I ain't the most with electrical generation so if some one would expand on this theme I'd be grateful. It comes of reading threads like this and having 10 minuets in the bath before SWMBO finds out where you are!

Cheers Stef

Hi All

The Bitza runs!

Bleeding was a pig, until I noticed that at the end of a savage cranking the injector spat bubbles back where I had the fuel line cracked at the top end. I'd marked the timing side flywheel with a pointer on the last pump linkage clevis pin and BIG white script on the wheel rim - suitable for the focally challenged, who's reading glasses tend to drop off at anything over 10 rpm, Butch's tip - it was happening at around 110 deg. before TDC as the engines rotation stopped it's self against the compression and I doubted I'd got the IP timing that far out.

The only other way in for air is through the injector so I pulled it out and sure enough it was stuck in the open position, I don't know what had glued it up, I've only ever run on white diesel.

I stripped it down, following Starfire's post and reseated the 'drippy' pingle valve with jewellers rouge, £5 including delivery from the UK for 50 g, a lifetimes supply! and the 'creak' as it popped returned.

I setup the injector pump with the injector bled and connected but not in the head, listing to the 'Creak' and rocking the flywheel past my BIG white timing marks, reassembled, she fired up first swing.

Plenty of smoke as the excess fuel burned off and then a nice clean exhaust as she settled down.

The leaping about has quietened down but still need more work, I've probably gone too far the other way with the ally piston.. if there's a kind soul in Lister land who could let me know the weight of the con rod, complete with big end, small end, cap and bolts I might be able to do the static balancing thingy with the crank in the motor on my new, well lubricated TRB's and the piston shoved to the top of the bore.

As an aside, I found that when I located the camshaft in accordance with Butch's post the timing was a tooth out, I reassembled it half a dozen times and not until I put more BIG white witness marks on the 'free' end' of the shafts retaining collar, to make sure it was at TDC at the same time as the crankshaft. I haven't measured the angle but it's somewhere around 5 degrees at a guess.

Cheers

Stef

NOOOO!

Don't let her die......

Like the boys say, there's everything you need here,

    http://lister-petter.devprecisionengineers.com/lister_cs.htm

Once I've placed an order it usually takes 4/5 days to get from Rejkot to halfway up the Pyrenees

Go large and upgrade to the 4 1/2" piston -  in Ally mine was around $70, from memory - and you could go all the way to 8 hp. There may well be enough meat in the cylinder to bore it to suit.
 I've just fitted taper roller bearings to a well knackered set of mains with a good dose of Loctite 620, Dev do big end bearings to something like 110 thou" and would probably cast you a special for not too much more

Given your level of ingenuity you'd surely have a viable machine for less than $400 

Cheers Stef

Hi All

After the summers working, barging, roofing and drinking we finally had some wet weather and I didn't feel bad about getting back in the shed, I don't have the same number of projects as Ed Dee bur I must be getting close....

Anyway, I ordered loads of bits for the CS back in the spring and on Saturday I dragged it out and stripped the crank out, I was running but vibrating like buggery ar 600 rpm and the well chewed mains were slack in the white metal bearings. I'd had it reground to fit an Indian big end bearing but there's no chance, up here in the Pyrenees, of getting the mains rebuit. In hindsight I'd have been better biting the bullet and getting a new one.

I had a couple of taper roller bearings and and carriers sent out from Rajkot along with the replacement for the leaky injector pump supplied free of charge by Dev Precision. The outer races of the bearings stood 2 mm - 80 thou'' proud of the carriers and locked the crank up solid.  It took a LOT of fettling with a 4'' angle grinder to get the carriers within 40 thou'' of the crankcase, then I made up gaskets to sort out the end float.

I'd also ordered an aluminium piston as I believe I have flywheels 'weighted' for the smaller piston, hence the vibration, the - the makers plate says the machine started out as a 3 - 1 'hopper cooled' in 1934 - so I reasoned that the lighter piston would help before I started adding mass to the 80 year old fly wheels. I now have three compression rings and two oil control rings, one beneath the gudgeon / wrist  pin, as opposed to four compression rings on the iron piston.

For those that are interested, the ally piston weighs 1.325 kg / 2'9 lbs and the iron 3.453 kg / 7.6 lbs according the scales belonging to SWMBO.

I crimped off the ends of the oil lines to the main bearings and drilled them so they deliver the oil at an angle, directly to the ends of the rollers then re assembled the whole lot.

Next is sort out the timing and bleed the system through.

I have two questions,

Have I overdone the oiling to the main bearings and would it be advisable to take a feed from the right hand side oil line to the non driven end of the cam shaft thus negating the need for the 'Oil Here' bolt.......

Cheers Stef