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Topics - dieselspanner

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Original Lister Cs Engines / The Proof
« on: June 07, 2017, 06:32:10 PM »
Hi All

Not long after joining the forum I read a post to the effect that 'It don't exist 'til you post the video'

Being somewhat of a technophobe, that's pretty much beyond me, posting pictures has only just become possible with the new site - thanks a second time Ade!

Anyway a couple of weeks back a mate came out help get the winter's wood in and reckoned he could do it, as he's built the rev counter for the Lister and a stand alone 12v shed alarm I let him have is head, he's gotten a bit Speilberg, IMHO, anyway all I have to do is post the link.............


Try hot to hurt his feelings too much

Cheers Stef

Original Lister Cs Engines / Governor linkage mod
« on: May 28, 2017, 05:15:01 PM »
Hi All

Having got the 3/6/8 CS bitza water cooled, at last, I've been playing with the linkage, trying to cut down the hunting.

After fettling everything, a mix of original and Indian parts, I had it down to an 8 rpm flutter, idling or on load.

I wanted to put a light spring on the free end of the rack to spring cut down the backlash but couldn't be arsed to strip down and drill a fitting into the rack, and anyway there was no likely spots for the other end of the spring.

I came up with the idea of tensioning the whole thing against it's self using the holes in the clevis pins, a spring from a set of twin SU carbs and a curved link knocked up from a 2.5mm welding rod

I had to slightly increase the tension on the governor spring, the flutter is now down to around 4 rpm, result! I don't think I'll get much better

Hopefully the photo explains all......

Cheers Stef

Generators / Alternator test
« on: January 01, 2017, 12:00:56 PM »
Hi All

I've fitted the 8kva Stamford Newage alternator with a frequency meter - 50 Hz and 100v, at 620 rpm it's showing 51 hz, with no load. its driving through a polyvee belt off the flywheel rim.

Plugging an electric kettle in to any of the three phases, each one has its own socket, drops the revs 15 rpm or so for 5/6 seconds then they build up to 617 and hold steady, with 50Hz, 9 amps on the meter and 218v.

Is it possible, advisable, worthwhile or sensible to tinker with the AVR to up the voltage to 220v or do I leave well alone?

As the alternator will produce more than the Lister, nominally a 6/1, how much load should I try as a max power test with out endangering the AVR etc as the revs drop?

All advice welcome, usual caveats apply!

Cheers Stef

Generators / Dynamo conversion
« on: December 12, 2016, 07:48:42 PM »
Hi All

There I was in the hot tub, letting the brain run along unattended, on the subject of using a Dynastart on the 6/1.

So, I've heard the theory that any motor should be capable of producing power, if you have a way of driving it, does this mean that the Lucas dynamo from my old tractor can be turned into a dynastart with relative ease?

Same rules apply to replies!


Generators / Stamford Newage Alternator
« on: December 10, 2016, 04:16:07 PM »
Hi All

Having fitted my bargain alternator and found that it's working could any one point me in the direction of a manual, please? I've Googled hard and can't find anything.

It's a Stamford Newage with three 220v outlets that look like they run one from each phase.

The serial no is 04931 / 01 Type PC164A

It has volt and ammeter meters, would it pay me to fit a frequency meter as well or would it fail to stand up to the vibration? The control box is flexibly mounted  on top of the alternator.

Cheers Stef

Original Lister Cs Engines / Lister CS 6/1 Rev Counter
« on: November 21, 2016, 08:17:24 AM »
Hi All

A couple of years ago a mate, who is electronically blessed offered to build me a burglar alarm system for my shed, it took a few months, each visit he'd do a bit more. as he was finishing it he admired the  Lister and my cycle computer rev counter, saying something a little more profesional shouldn't be too difficult to knock up, This is it


It's powered by an internal 9v battery and has a Hall effect switch that is triggered by 4 tiny 2mm magnets set (with a hot glue gun) equidistantly, into the inboard side of the camshaft retaining collar. The tin cover hides the switch, bracketry, excess cable and keeps it all tidy and provides protection.

On pressing the button the unit runs for 5 minuets and give a coundown to shut down in seconds. There's also a second switch in the case which can be used to determine which end of a magnet is which before fitting, as the sensor is polarity sensitive.

It'll will apparently run for hours on the battery, quote "I don't think you'll be fitting a new one for a couple of years'.

That's the limit of my knowledge, but if anyone would like details I'm happy to pass them along, or publish them here.

Once I get the whole generator assembled he's promised a Raspberry Pie powered starting sysrem a la Startomatic. Can't wait!

The crappy videoing is me, posting courtesy of Tony, my son in law.

Cheers Stef

Lister Based Generators / Newage Stanford Alternator
« on: November 18, 2016, 08:19:24 PM »

Hi All

Whilst down in Spain. trying to earn a bob or two to finance the shed full of toys, my mate spotted this in a corner of the shipyard workshop

After parting with 100 euros we loaded it into the truck and dragged it back to the Pyrenees.

It looks like the three phases are wired to 3 x 16 amp sockets on the control box each producing 220v

It's unmolested inside the control box and appears to have been removed from the prime mover and stacked on the rack several years back.

Any help, prestart tips before I drive it with the 6/1 and let the magic smoke out of it are more than welcome

I have 24" un gfooved flywheels and intend to run vee belts. am I right in thinking a 190mm pulley should give me 1500 rpm at the alternator with +-600 rpm at the flywheel? I'm not sure of the calculation with the belt driving on the bottom at the flywheel and into a grooved pulley.

Cheers Stef


The Chief of the boat we were working on gave me a swift tutorial on getting pictures on to a forum, it was mostly in Spanish with a little bit of Catalan on the side, if the link works I'll be well chuffed

Original Lister Cs Engines / CS 3/6/8 - 1 rebuild
« on: September 19, 2016, 07:14:14 AM »
Hi All

After the summers working, barging, roofing and drinking we finally had some wet weather and I didn't feel bad about getting back in the shed, I don't have the same number of projects as Ed Dee bur I must be getting close....

Anyway, I ordered loads of bits for the CS back in the spring and on Saturday I dragged it out and stripped the crank out, I was running but vibrating like buggery ar 600 rpm and the well chewed mains were slack in the white metal bearings. I'd had it reground to fit an Indian big end bearing but there's no chance, up here in the Pyrenees, of getting the mains rebuit. In hindsight I'd have been better biting the bullet and getting a new one.

I had a couple of taper roller bearings and and carriers sent out from Rajkot along with the replacement for the leaky injector pump supplied free of charge by Dev Precision. The outer races of the bearings stood 2 mm - 80 thou'' proud of the carriers and locked the crank up solid.  It took a LOT of fettling with a 4'' angle grinder to get the carriers within 40 thou'' of the crankcase, then I made up gaskets to sort out the end float.

I'd also ordered an aluminium piston as I believe I have flywheels 'weighted' for the smaller piston, hence the vibration, the - the makers plate says the machine started out as a 3 - 1 'hopper cooled' in 1934 - so I reasoned that the lighter piston would help before I started adding mass to the 80 year old fly wheels. I now have three compression rings and two oil control rings, one beneath the gudgeon / wrist  pin, as opposed to four compression rings on the iron piston.

For those that are interested, the ally piston weighs 1.325 kg / 2'9 lbs and the iron 3.453 kg / 7.6 lbs according the scales belonging to SWMBO.

I crimped off the ends of the oil lines to the main bearings and drilled them so they deliver the oil at an angle, directly to the ends of the rollers then re assembled the whole lot.

Next is sort out the timing and bleed the system through.

I have two questions,

Have I overdone the oiling to the main bearings and would it be advisable to take a feed from the right hand side oil line to the non driven end of the cam shaft thus negating the need for the 'Oil Here' bolt.......

Cheers Stef

General Discussion / Lucas Alternator Issue
« on: June 28, 2016, 12:52:38 PM »
Hi All

After 60 or more year the wiring on my Mccormick 434 is getting shabby so I've ripped it all outr and at the same time replaced the dynamo with a rebuilt Lucas A127 2 wire alternator.

I supplied the sensing / exciting wire from the ignition switch through a small panel lamp and the feed out directly to the battery. There was no output, even rev'ved to the max.

I replaced the panel lamp with a 21w indicator bulb, the alternator functions as expected.

Is this because the tractor runs at very low revs, exacerbated by the reduction in alternator revs due to the 2 pulley drive on this particular engine stepping them down, or have I missed something........

The battery was showing 12.9 volts and all connections were good and clean.

If I wire a diode into the circuit to drop the sensing current, what value should I use.....

Cheers Stef

Original Lister Cs Engines / Lister JP3 Question
« on: May 03, 2016, 11:00:23 AM »
Hi All

On behalf of a friend...

Would anyone know the PCD of the 3 x 3/4'' holes on the flywheel on the on the gearbox end of a JP3?

(The engine only has one fly wheel)

I know measuring between 2 holes and multiplying by 1.154 should produce an answer but thing have got a bit worn and sloppy over the years.

It appears to be a genny motor converted in the 70's to marine use on a Dutch barge.

My Mate is looking to fabricate a plate for conversion to a flexible drive.



Original Lister Cs Engines / DC Dynastart
« on: April 05, 2016, 08:05:23 PM »
Hi All

With the end of the colder weather and the skiing, well here in the Pyrenees anyway, the 'Honey Do' list appears, at the moment It don't look too long so after I sort out the Mccormick 434, new liners and crank, the CS is next in line.....................

I've rounded up most of the bits and have made a start on the chassis, next is to find a gen head and hopefully some form of electric starter.

As there will be a spare flywheel, on one side or the other it seems a waste not to drive a 12v alternator or two were my initial thoughts, then I wondered about driving a 12v dc motor as a generator, and using it as a starter, which can't be too far away from the 'Startomatic' concept.


Has it been done?

Can it be done? 

What size (hp) motor should I look for, and would I have to go to 24v to make it practical?

Would the electrical connection be beyond my modest means? - I can cope with solenoids transformers and diodes, anything attached to a pcb is beyond me (well at this stage!)

I've seen a couple of threads where guys have used golf buggy motors and a friction drive, is there anything else on the site I've missed?

All thoughts, help, ideas and support are as welcome as always

Cheers Stef

General Discussion / Promotion!
« on: April 01, 2016, 02:10:14 PM »
Hi All

Just realised I'm no longer a 'Newbie'

Can't remember the last time I had any sort of promotion or upgrade!

Thanks to all for the help, encouragement and support.


Original Lister Cs Engines / Spares from India
« on: March 21, 2016, 01:53:27 AM »
Hi Guys

Over the past year or so I've been restoring / rebuilding a 6/1 Lister 'bitza' - with a whole lot of help from the site. After boasting of my success at buying Listeroid spares from the 'States at a reasonable rate' it was pointed out to me that I'd be better off going to direct to an Indiansupplier - Dieselgman. I think.

I've since ordered 3 lots, at around $250 a piece, from Dev Precision Engineering, in Rajkot and was more than satisfied with the service, delivery time and quality, until the last batch.

The oil feed pick up filter was a fuel filter 'wick' and the bearing carriers and bearings were for a 'Listeroid' with a 55mm crank shaft and not an original Lister's 2" shaft - I was at great pains to specify I wanted 2" bearings and we even exchanged emails on the subject. The English used ( I presume by Devang) is pretty good, so I'd call it a 50 / 50 mistake based on the way I read his reply, however the crankshaft oil seals delivered were 2", and there were 4, not 2 of them!

I emailed the problems and at the same time complained that the injection pump from the first order was leaking from the rack after just a few minuets running and was a seal kit available?, I was asked what seals I needed, I said I'd pull the pump apart and check. That afternoon I pulled the pump and using information from the web discovered there are no seals, it all relies on the plunger being correctly lapped in, it wasn't. There are a couple of tight spots and one very loose one, in exactly the wrong position, and a lot of dust and debris in the lower half of the pump body.

 I'd followed 38ac's instructions carefully (thanks once more) and had not let the pump 'bind' at maximum cam lift when setting up and am more than certain it's a manufacturing issue rather than my ham fisted approach to engineering.

Having repeatedly emailed Devprecision (some emails may have not got through, we've had no fixed line internet up here in the Pyrenees since Christmas, but I can't believe they've all got lost in cyberspace)  I have had no further reply in the last couple of weeks.

Rant over, I've got it off my chest, so a couple of questions.

Am I likely to hear from Devprecision?

Are there other suppliers on the sub continent, and are they any more dependable?

Is the pump I have salvageable?, it appears the plunger housing should easily remove from the body.

Where should I buy the next pump from, and should I try and get an original Bosch rather than an Indian copy?

As always, help and comments welcome.


Everything else / Agricultural oil filtration
« on: February 29, 2016, 01:22:58 PM »
Hi All

A while back I read in a couple of places on the web of a 'farmer' method of filtering used sump oil with a piece of cotton rope. In December, after draining some of the blackest stuff I've ever seen out of my tractor, prior to a rebuild I thought I'd give it a go.

After two and a half months I have a length of soft cotton rope soaked in sump oil (the one you're supposed to wrap around a fence post to keep the the termites at bay) and not even a damp patch in the lower container.

I don't think it was 1st April when I read it, has anyone done it with any success, or am I being overly hasty?



Things I want to Buy / seeking CS 8/1 Aluminium Piston
« on: December 15, 2015, 07:46:28 PM »
Hi All
I'm looking to beg borrow or buy an aluminium 8/1 piston.

I've just rebuilt a load of miscellaneous bits into a 6/1, amazingly it runs, albeit with a lot of vibration.

It started life as a 3/1 hopper cooled version, well according to the spec plate, which didn't look to have been previously tampered with. On wire brushing the fly wheels I found marks leading me to believe they (and thus the bottom end) are 3/1 and as such they would have been balanced for the smaller, less heavy, piston.

On balancing the crank and flywheels together I found them to be around 800 grams short of counter weight, (using a weight equal to that of the piston, rings, gudgeon pin and bearing, along with half the weight of the con rod hanging off the crank pin)

Rather than add weight I wondered if there would be an advantage to be gained by using the lighter piston. Certainly there would be less danger of launching a couple of pounds of lead around the workshop!

I'm In the south of France at the moment but will be back in the UK for the New Year.

As it is a bit of an experiment I'd ideally like something at the cheaper end of things!

As always any help, advice and comment is more than welcome

Cheers All



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