Hi All

Not long after joining the forum I read a post to the effect that 'It don't exist 'til you post the video'

Being somewhat of a technophobe, that's pretty much beyond me, posting pictures has only just become possible with the new site - thanks a second time Ade!

Anyway a couple of weeks back a mate came out help get the winter's wood in and reckoned he could do it, as he's built the rev counter for the Lister and a stand alone 12v shed alarm I let him have is head, he's gotten a bit Speilberg, IMHO, anyway all I have to do is post the link.............

                                               https://youtu.be/js3zz6CECqY

Try hot to hurt his feelings too much

Cheers Stef

Hi All

I've fitted the 8kva Stamford Newage alternator with a frequency meter - 50 Hz and 100v, at 620 rpm it's showing 51 hz, with no load. its driving through a polyvee belt off the flywheel rim.

Plugging an electric kettle in to any of the three phases, each one has its own socket, drops the revs 15 rpm or so for 5/6 seconds then they build up to 617 and hold steady, with 50Hz, 9 amps on the meter and 218v.

Is it possible, advisable, worthwhile or sensible to tinker with the AVR to up the voltage to 220v or do I leave well alone?

As the alternator will produce more than the Lister, nominally a 6/1, how much load should I try as a max power test with out endangering the AVR etc as the revs drop?

All advice welcome, usual caveats apply!

Cheers Stef

Hi All

Having fitted my bargain alternator and found that it's working could any one point me in the direction of a manual, please? I've Googled hard and can't find anything.

It's a Stamford Newage with three 220v outlets that look like they run one from each phase.

The serial no is 04931 / 01 Type PC164A

It has volt and ammeter meters, would it pay me to fit a frequency meter as well or would it fail to stand up to the vibration? The control box is flexibly mounted  on top of the alternator.


Cheers Stef

Hi All

Whilst down in Spain. trying to earn a bob or two to finance the shed full of toys, my mate spotted this in a corner of the shipyard workshop




After parting with 100 euros we loaded it into the truck and dragged it back to the Pyrenees.

It looks like the three phases are wired to 3 x 16 amp sockets on the control box each producing 220v

It's unmolested inside the control box and appears to have been removed from the prime mover and stacked on the rack several years back.

Any help, prestart tips before I drive it with the 6/1 and let the magic smoke out of it are more than welcome

I have 24" un gfooved flywheels and intend to run vee belts. am I right in thinking a 190mm pulley should give me 1500 rpm at the alternator with +-600 rpm at the flywheel? I'm not sure of the calculation with the belt driving on the bottom at the flywheel and into a grooved pulley.

Cheers Stef

PS

The Chief of the boat we were working on gave me a swift tutorial on getting pictures on to a forum, it was mostly in Spanish with a little bit of Catalan on the side, if the link works I'll be well chuffed

Hi All

After 60 or more year the wiring on my Mccormick 434 is getting shabby so I've ripped it all outr and at the same time replaced the dynamo with a rebuilt Lucas A127 2 wire alternator.

I supplied the sensing / exciting wire from the ignition switch through a small panel lamp and the feed out directly to the battery. There was no output, even rev'ved to the max.

I replaced the panel lamp with a 21w indicator bulb, the alternator functions as expected.

Is this because the tractor runs at very low revs, exacerbated by the reduction in alternator revs due to the 2 pulley drive on this particular engine stepping them down, or have I missed something........

The battery was showing 12.9 volts and all connections were good and clean.

If I wire a diode into the circuit to drop the sensing current, what value should I use.....

Cheers Stef

Hi All

With the end of the colder weather and the skiing, well here in the Pyrenees anyway, the 'Honey Do' list appears, at the moment It don't look too long so after I sort out the Mccormick 434, new liners and crank, the CS is next in line.....................


I've rounded up most of the bits and have made a start on the chassis, next is to find a gen head and hopefully some form of electric starter.

As there will be a spare flywheel, on one side or the other it seems a waste not to drive a 12v alternator or two were my initial thoughts, then I wondered about driving a 12v dc motor as a generator, and using it as a starter, which can't be too far away from the 'Startomatic' concept.

So....

Has it been done?

Can it be done? 

What size (hp) motor should I look for, and would I have to go to 24v to make it practical?

Would the electrical connection be beyond my modest means? - I can cope with solenoids transformers and diodes, anything attached to a pcb is beyond me (well at this stage!)

I've seen a couple of threads where guys have used golf buggy motors and a friction drive, is there anything else on the site I've missed?

All thoughts, help, ideas and support are as welcome as always

Cheers Stef

Hi Guys

Over the past year or so I've been restoring / rebuilding a 6/1 Lister 'bitza' - with a whole lot of help from the site. After boasting of my success at buying Listeroid spares from the 'States at a reasonable rate' it was pointed out to me that I'd be better off going to direct to an Indiansupplier - Dieselgman. I think.

I've since ordered 3 lots, at around $250 a piece, from Dev Precision Engineering, in Rajkot and was more than satisfied with the service, delivery time and quality, until the last batch.

The oil feed pick up filter was a fuel filter 'wick' and the bearing carriers and bearings were for a 'Listeroid' with a 55mm crank shaft and not an original Lister's 2" shaft - I was at great pains to specify I wanted 2" bearings and we even exchanged emails on the subject. The English used ( I presume by Devang) is pretty good, so I'd call it a 50 / 50 mistake based on the way I read his reply, however the crankshaft oil seals delivered were 2", and there were 4, not 2 of them!

I emailed the problems and at the same time complained that the injection pump from the first order was leaking from the rack after just a few minuets running and was a seal kit available?, I was asked what seals I needed, I said I'd pull the pump apart and check. That afternoon I pulled the pump and using information from the web discovered there are no seals, it all relies on the plunger being correctly lapped in, it wasn't. There are a couple of tight spots and one very loose one, in exactly the wrong position, and a lot of dust and debris in the lower half of the pump body.

 I'd followed 38ac's instructions carefully (thanks once more) and had not let the pump 'bind' at maximum cam lift when setting up and am more than certain it's a manufacturing issue rather than my ham fisted approach to engineering.

Having repeatedly emailed Devprecision (some emails may have not got through, we've had no fixed line internet up here in the Pyrenees since Christmas, but I can't believe they've all got lost in cyberspace)  I have had no further reply in the last couple of weeks.

Rant over, I've got it off my chest, so a couple of questions.


Am I likely to hear from Devprecision?

Are there other suppliers on the sub continent, and are they any more dependable?

Is the pump I have salvageable?, it appears the plunger housing should easily remove from the body.

Where should I buy the next pump from, and should I try and get an original Bosch rather than an Indian copy?

As always, help and comments welcome.

Stef

Hi All
I'm looking to beg borrow or buy an aluminium 8/1 piston.

I've just rebuilt a load of miscellaneous bits into a 6/1, amazingly it runs, albeit with a lot of vibration.

It started life as a 3/1 hopper cooled version, well according to the spec plate, which didn't look to have been previously tampered with. On wire brushing the fly wheels I found marks leading me to believe they (and thus the bottom end) are 3/1 and as such they would have been balanced for the smaller, less heavy, piston.

On balancing the crank and flywheels together I found them to be around 800 grams short of counter weight, (using a weight equal to that of the piston, rings, gudgeon pin and bearing, along with half the weight of the con rod hanging off the crank pin)

Rather than add weight I wondered if there would be an advantage to be gained by using the lighter piston. Certainly there would be less danger of launching a couple of pounds of lead around the workshop!

I'm In the south of France at the moment but will be back in the UK for the New Year.

As it is a bit of an experiment I'd ideally like something at the cheaper end of things!

As always any help, advice and comment is more than welcome

Cheers All

Stef