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Messages - tyssniffen

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16
Listeroid Engines / Re: runs, but really slow. what are the solutions?
« on: July 19, 2023, 08:35:51 PM »
yeah, got it, and did it.  I just didn't know the term 'lash'.    Surprised things were so out of whack, and glad you all saw it in the video.

17
Listeroid Engines / Re: runs, but really slow. what are the solutions?
« on: July 18, 2023, 07:57:33 PM »
Ah, I think I get that you mean the distance between the rocker and the valve head. As everyone else is talking about. Yes I will work to adjust that, and see if it helps. That point 07 is at Top Dead center?

18
Listeroid Engines / Re: runs, but really slow. what are the solutions?
« on: July 18, 2023, 05:51:00 PM »
Quote from: broncodriver99 on July 17, 2023, 09:36:16 PM
Have you checked you valve lash?

no, I don't think so. what's the valve lash?

19
Listeroid Engines / runs, but really slow. what are the solutions?
« on: July 17, 2023, 07:09:49 PM »
so, I probably still have too much carbon build up on my normal set up.  I need to reduce the size of my radiator tank so the thing will run hotter, and I have already set up a drip line into the intake.   Probably another thing I do wrong is run the thing only for a short time sometimes to run power tools or something - It doesn't get up to heat speed and get rid of the carbon.  maybe my timing is off as well.

It wouldn't fire up so I took off the head, cleaned it up, re-ground the pistons with the smooth compound, cleaned off the top of the piston... didn't really *see* any damage on the cylinder, and put it all back together (with a different alternator, but that's a different story) and now when I crank it up, it's like it doesn't get up to momentum.

If I really hold open the throttle (hold back the governor) it will get going up to speed, but then doesn't even stay that way.

check out the very short video: https://youtube.com/shorts/ezye0HQ9UU8?feature=share

what is going on? how do I fix it?

20
Generators / Re: I need help getting pulley off of a Mecc Alte
« on: April 19, 2023, 06:31:31 PM »
UPDATE:

I got it off, see attachment.    In the process of trying to get a wedge between pulley and bushing, the bushing started cracking, so I started smashing it apart. 

Now I need to find a new bushing that will fit a 1 inch diameter shaft and a 2 1/8 inch pulley hole.   anyone have any shop recommendations for that?

21
Generators / Re: I need help getting pulley off of a Mecc Alte
« on: April 12, 2023, 04:04:46 AM »
update - not done yet -

I've gotten some movement, but the 2 parts on the shaft, not between pulley and the bushing.

I cut the bolts, both cut the heads off and cut the shaft between the pulley and the bushing, as I was concerned they were holding the 2 together.  And a hack saw was easy to get in there.

I've got some stubby bolts and nuts and using them as expanders, pushing up/away on the pulley, but not getting it free yet.  I have also been hitting down/in on the bushing while the expander nuts are holding the pulley up, hoping they'd move apart. it occurs to me as I type this I was hitting down on the whole thing, so that I wasn't putting real movement on it - by having the shaft on the bench, I was just pounding down. I should have it hanging by the pulley somehow.

Still open for more advice. thanks for the PDF.

22
Generators / Re: I need help getting pulley off of a Mecc Alte
« on: April 11, 2023, 05:38:11 PM »
thanks for all these replies.

seems like I definitely need to try and get the pulley to move IN first, something I didn't try much, as I didn't really believe it could be on backwards.

23
Generators / Re: I need help getting pulley off of a Mecc Alte
« on: April 11, 2023, 04:23:43 AM »
more photos

24
Generators / I need help getting pulley off of a Mecc Alte
« on: April 11, 2023, 04:23:04 AM »
So, with my chinese ST down (I believe it is the windings with a short) I have been gifted a 2013 Mecc Alte alternator off of another gen set.

It's gotta run at 3600rpm, so I need to put a different pulley on there.  Amazingly, I think it needs a 4" with my flywheel, which I have.

BUT, I can't get the other one off. It seems as though it's put on the opposite way the ST ones go on, with bolts on the *inside*.  I also don't know how to get the 'key' out off the shaft.

I've emailed the company (in Italy) a week ago, and haven't heard anything.  No luck doing internet searches either.  Anyone have ideas?

I have turned the bolts (out) which, once they are fully out and pushing against the cast body) may be pushing the pulley off, but I have worked that as hard as I can and have started to round off the bolt heads.    There must be a trick, but I don't know what it is.    I've also tried heating up the pulley a bit with a blow torch, but hard to say if I did enough, or if that was a wise move.

Photos attached.


25
Listeroid Engines / Re: 3k Chinese alternator just stopped mid run
« on: January 31, 2023, 05:34:29 PM »
well, hooked up as directed and no go.  Not a blip on the volt meter on the output.

Besides getting a higher quality Ohm meter (to attach to WHICH of those wires?) what else have I got?   

Could it really be that the windings just... failed? all at once, with less than 800 hours on it?

fustrated

26
Listeroid Engines / Re: 3k Chinese alternator just stopped mid run
« on: January 30, 2023, 02:22:39 AM »
ok, I get that you say the wires go back to the windings, but now that I have these little rectifiers, and a nice chunky heat sink, can anyone clue me in a bit more on which wire goes where?  I labeled my current (dead?) one, and my new one still on the bench.  see attached.   

My ability to dig under the box and figure out which wire goes to the windings is a bit low.

27
Listeroid Engines / Re: 3k Chinese alternator just stopped mid run
« on: December 26, 2022, 06:05:31 PM »
PS - anxious, so already pulled the trigger and ordered 8 of those little KBPC5010s.   Very interested in hearing about mounting choices.

also, just to circle back on the windings possibility to understand the thinking.... how does that failure happen?  and what does it look/act like?  If that 2nd rectifier I popped in there was good, but the windings were fried, it shouldn't have made any more AC, even for a minute, right?   



28
Listeroid Engines / Re: 3k Chinese alternator just stopped mid run
« on: December 26, 2022, 05:26:29 PM »
Quote from: 38ac on December 26, 2022, 01:05:52 PM
I am very surprised that the original rectifier lasted as long as it did, most fail very quickly. Both of mine did in about 10 hours. Luckily the knowledgeables here on LEF put me on to these 5010 bridge diodes which are dirt cheap and reliable if they have a heat sink. I bought a bag of 20 on ebay for like $25 USD maybe 10 years ago. You can you can mount them on the fancy aluminum heat sinks sold for the purpose or simply attach them to the metal box with a screw. What you cannot do is not have a heat sink of some sort.

Ok, I'll get new rectifier(s).  more questions created though:
I found the ones you reference:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832449962468.html?pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%21US%20%240.95%21%240.84%21%21%21%21%21%402103222016720751812772647e2079%2110000001113346307%21btf&_t=pvid%3A0e4d991c-e5f6-4ce2-9788-17f432c97328&afTraceInfo=32636277220__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1672075181&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

and also ones that match what I had in there:
https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/ST-Alternator-Bridge-Rectifier.html

question 1: which is better?


question 2: if installing those KBPC5010s, how do you match up the wiring? (I see 2 labels, AC and +, but which post goes with which wire?)

question 3: what do you do for a heat sink with those?


29
Listeroid Engines / Re: 3k Chinese alternator just stopped mid run
« on: December 26, 2022, 02:49:26 AM »
This is some high quality advice, thanks!

more details to see if this matches your thought:
- this ST 3k is only 7 years old; thus it doesn't have more than 700 hours on it. 

- I'm sure my habits are harder on this machine than ideal, but the thing has been inside it's shed and bolted down it's whole life. I spill enough diesel around that I don't think there's mice doing anything horrible in there either.

- when I noticed the loose wire, the attachment/terminal, which I believe was a little square with a hole, with the screw holding it down was just ... disintegrated.  it looked like failed solder, or aluminum foil flakes.  I have now reconnected it (as I said before) and it doesn't seem bad... just went and yanked on it, I can't see anything wrong with it. 

Are you suggesting that both that wire and the rectifier are bad?    Either of those would be a great problem over the windings obviously. 

WHY does something like this happen?

For some reason, I had that other rectifier - that other one I put in - but I don't know if it was a good spare or one I'd replaced.  If it was 'new' (sat on the shelf for 7 years) would it have failed like that so quickly?   

and, if your theory is correct, you would advise:
1. get another rectifier
2. get another wire where that one failed, put a 1amp fuse inline in it.






 

30
Listeroid Engines / Re: 3k Chinese alternator just stopped mid run
« on: December 25, 2022, 09:29:00 PM »
Thanks for all the help. Do I need to do that reading when the thing is spinning? Or will it always have that resistance?

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