Bruce, you said get capacitors that cover 20-40 uF.

so, I'm looking at this 10 (mdf?) UF one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-MFD-uf-370-440-v-vac-volts-Oval-AC-Electric-Motor-Run-Capacitor-HVAC-/400467157669?hash=item5d3db3e2a5:g:NOQAAOSwxH1T48Z~

and getting 3 of them, so I can start with 10 and work up.   is that what you suggest?
and how do they get wired in?  the AC just goes in, and comes back out the same 'post' but opposite side? (can't quite see how those flanges are set up)


In other, not complete testing news: I hooked up my old school table saw and had it running before I switched on the house, and the house seemed to be willing to take that power.  Once I turned off the tablesaw, it seemed the house rejected it again.  I couldn't do a lot of experimenting though.

so, here's what I've done so far (with Tom from Central Gen's help) which I think, Bruce, is your number #2 advice ?   the red wires?

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V0DAmAPiGJw/VpQp5ncr76I/AAAAAAAAGtY/MPRxjngYzdA/s1600/2016-01-11%2B12.15.23.jpg 

With the mechanical governor on the roid, you should really be setting the no-load frequency to around 62 HZ.  ALL mechanical governors have RPM droop across their load range.  Since the mechanical flyweights are in constant opposition with a spring, They MUST have a decrease in RPM to provide the mechanical movement which increases the throttle to help counter the drop in RPM.  My 6/1 set at 62HZ no-load droops to 58HZ at max load.  This is actually kind of handy, as with a kill-a-watt plugged into any outlet in the house I can, at a glance, tell the load on the generator...  Starting out at 62HZ or so might help with the inverter tripping out for low freq when it places a load on the generator...   

This is the area I was interested in.  for the record, it's a 6/1 connected to a BRAND NEW 3kwST. 

I know the inverter/charger isn't messed up, in fact I have been using a gas gen to push in AC, and have pushed in AC with my old alt before it fried.

also, I did have a killOwatt connected in (can't video that in the same way) and it shows that same jump UP in htz.  I'm really surprised there's that much 'reaction' from the house load.

about my speed question:  I can't do the math if I can't get a consistent readout on AC or Htz!  and, this new alt seems to have an AVR that really controls the AC, so I'm down to looking at Htz. thus all these questions. 

Anyway, next test is I'll make sure the belt is good and tight and set the speed up so it shows 62hz at no load.
check out how tight I've got the belt right now, in case there's some slippage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xK8r2nXln3E&feature=youtu.be 

What about scavenging a alternator from a trashed 3600 rpm screamer ?  Generally, the engines die, and the alt is likely still OK.   You would have to get a mounting plate and a pulley together for it though.

hm. that's probably more project than I can handle, but it does have some appeal. have you seen it done, with a lister/22 inch flywheel?

yes, this thing was not in the most protected environment for a number of years. of course, now, it is.  

so I'm hearing, replace the stator windings (who does that?? )   OR get a completely new Alternator.  

I've certainly looked at Utterpower's PMG, but I'm hoping for other specific suggestions:  what should I get and who should I get it from?

--- I use my 6/1 for BACKUP for my off-grid  (full time) home.  That is, in the winter, from November to March, I like to bump up my battery bank because the solar panels aren't getting the long love from the sun.  I also use this thing for power tool usage.  That ends up being about a 5 hour stretch, once a week for 4 months, max.  80 hours a year.

so, what happened when I did the AC outs into the rectifier?

why am I only seeing 2 volts out now?

Well if I were a bet'in man I'd say that the field windings are shorted.

how do I check, and how do I fix?

sorry, looking for more clarification on this fix. (it's raining today, so I'm skipping working on wiring anyway)

I've posted another photo here:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Mw48cgB_xEI/Vjfi54CUAPI/AAAAAAAAGow/G7sumGCr_tw/s1600/altblowoutwithdrawnlines.png

with GREEN DRAWN on lines of what I think is the suggested change. 

Connecting on AC out (#1) to the bridge retifier  and connectig the other AC out (#2) to the Z winding going into the AVR (#6)   Does that all look correct?

Also, I'm unclear on whether I UNHOOK the Z windings, or leave them connected.  my green slash marks are on the Z wires - do I cut those or leave them connected?