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Messages - cobbadog

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571
Engines / Re: Lister SR2M project.
« on: July 15, 2020, 12:24:20 PM »
Yes, that is what I am using to make my new guides too, cast iron. When you get your new valves and check the diameter of the stems you might find that the original guides may only need a slight ream. Always hope that this can be the case. If not then you havea plan to go forward.
Cleaning parts up to be spotless is always the best way to go. Makes for easy assembly as well.

572
Engines / Re: Lister SR2M project.
« on: July 15, 2020, 07:08:34 AM »
Nice job in the cleaning up. Yes the dry sand works well too. As for the valve seats I would usually say yes they are a bit 'sunken' and replacement is needed, but see if someone who knows a lot more than me if they are supposed to be recessed for clearance of the piston. It just looks too neat.
Not sure if a manual would clarify this.
I have just bought some new valves for an engine, non Lister, which are different in the overall length, 180mm or 6". Seats will clean up ok but I am making new valve guides for it.

573
Engines / Re: Lister SR2M project.
« on: July 14, 2020, 06:35:45 AM »
I was not sure of the brand of the primer and is why I mentioned it. Sounds like your on track though and that is good. I also have a small blasting cabinet and use a couple of different mediums in it as it is easy to empty and change over. I use a Garnet for the heavily rusted metal parts but mostly use glass beads as it is kinder on the finish. To get my air supply I have two compressors plumbed up to the same line that give me what I need.
Your air supply is a lot larger than mine so you won't run out of air anytime soon.

574
Engines / Re: Lister SR2M project.
« on: July 13, 2020, 12:27:05 PM »
G'Day LW,
Good decision with going back to standard bore size and for further options way down the track. Nice job cleaning up the parts. Consider no grey primer and using either engine enamel on bare metal or 2 pack paint as the primer / under coat is not heat resistant and will burn off on the engine block and head areas.
As for using a flat, satin or gloss finish this is your choice as it is you project. The only benefit I see in using gloss is it is so very easy to clean up if an oil leak happens. A bit of degreaser and a hose and it is done. Flat finishes hold dirt, dust and oil.

575
Engines / Re: LD1 - the fuel pump issue again....
« on: July 13, 2020, 05:39:24 AM »
Try this before you send the fuel pump out for an inspection. Remove the injector from the engine and reconnect the fuel line. Bleed the line at the injector then tighten the joint. Crank the engine over to see if the fuel atomises out of the injector.
DO NOT PUT ANY PART OF YOUR BODY NEAR THE SPRAY !
If you do have atomisation then you do have a timing issue or low compression.

576
Engines / Re: Lister SR2M project.
« on: July 12, 2020, 12:36:08 PM »
Now days it is common to only get 20, 40 & 60 thou sizes. I would go straight to the 0.040" and be done with it. If you are working the engine for a living and you service it correctly you will get another 20 years out of it and then you have another 20 thou to go and do it again.

577
Engines / Re: TL2 fuel pumps
« on: July 11, 2020, 12:37:30 PM »
Hi chef, hopefully someone will be able to help. I have no clue on timing pumps on diesels as I ahvent had to learn yet.

578
Engines / Re: LD1 - the fuel pump issue again....
« on: July 09, 2020, 12:24:53 PM »
It sounds to me you need to follow the linkages from the throttle to the fuel racks and ensure they are moving the full amount. Just for fun check that there is no air in the fuel system and that it flows freely to the fuel pump.

579
Engines / Re: Lister
« on: June 30, 2020, 07:22:52 AM »
Not a good thing to try and run them backwards at all. to change the rotation is a bit of work but can you get the reverse rotation by driving off the opposite end of the crank shaft and if it is a crank start change to electric or make a starting dog for the other end.
Out of curiosity, what is the application?

580
Engines / Re: how adjust pushrods for GM90
« on: June 25, 2020, 06:57:49 AM »
Well done, glad your up and running again.

581
Engines / Re: how adjust pushrods for GM90
« on: June 24, 2020, 06:59:06 AM »
I am not familiar with this model engine but having one push rod shorter than the other is unusual unless it is a hit n miss engine with an atmospheric valve.
I always use Google to get my torque settings by size of bolt and thread type. This has never been wrong even after the fact I found out torque settings in a manual and Google search was spot on.
Maybe a picture of the rods and valves might shed some light on it but soon enough someone will be able to set you straight.

Have you looked online for a workshop manual for it, this also might help.

582
Engines / Re: Engine ID question
« on: June 20, 2020, 12:54:39 PM »
My SR2 Lister is a strong engine and easy to crank start on our Liner Roughrider dumpy truck. So long as you keep good oil and fuel along with filters in them they will run for ever.

583
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel Crude Oil Engine
« on: June 20, 2020, 07:00:53 AM »
Finally got the injector back together today so will post pics of it assembled later but here are the last of the parts made up to do the job. There is a new spring on the needle, a roughly made grub screw to hold the cup in place and a new copper crush washer that I annealed even more to ensure a good seal when installed.
The grey length of cast iron is for making new valve guides for the head and I have some new valves apparently available but cannot confirm until next week.

584
Engines / Re: Engine ID question
« on: June 20, 2020, 06:56:52 AM »
G'Day Ruairi and welcome to the Forum.
The numbers you have posted are only casting numbers from the foundry so they dont identify your engine. On my twin Lister there is an id plate to the right of where your fuel pump is and possibly up a little bit. Plate is around 2-3" wide and 1.5" high. This is what you need to turn yourself upside down to find ir better still give that job to your son. It might be a bit easier to find with those air ducts removed.
At least it looks clean and tidy down there so that is a bonus. Is it in running condition and are there any problems with the engine?

585
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: McDonald Imperial Super Diesel Crude Oil Engine
« on: June 18, 2020, 06:58:42 AM »
With weeks of part time work done on the Hyvid/Brons fuel injector I have finally got it all the way apart and cleaned up. I have used some valve grinding paste both coarse and fine to re-seat the bottom needle to help stop compression blow back and all I need now is 2 new copper gaskets and a new spring for the needle then it can be assembled ready for action. I am making new valve guides for the head, am looking at 2 new valves also and the new set of piston rings are somewhere between N.Z. and here.

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