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Messages - cobbadog

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Engines / Re: Engine Manuals Available
« on: November 13, 2018, 04:43:22 AM »
G'Day Alex,
I too would very much like a copy of the first one covering the SR2 engine

Engines / Re: Turned out that my Lister wasn't ST2 :-)
« on: October 17, 2018, 06:53:21 AM »
Yep does sound like a fuel issue. Good advise from saba by removing the injector and connecting it back up to the fuel supply and rotate the engine over and see what happens at the nozzle. Be very careful and dont put it near any part of your body as the spray is under very high pressure and can cause harm to you.
If you get a nice even spray then the issue is else where, timing maybe but I get the feel it is fuel and possibly a blockage in the lines. Always worth a go at using compressed air and blow out all the fuel lines when they are disconnected to the pump and injector so that any crap doesn't get inside them.
By the way, your description of your pristine restoration is an understatement. That was far more than a "bit of a clean and refurbish" a lot of hard work went into that. You must be very pleased with how it looks and soon how it runs. Well done and thanks for sharing your new toy with a purpose!

Engines / Re: going prices on lister ST2 engine ???????
« on: October 16, 2018, 06:32:33 AM »
G'Day Shawn,
Nice find and looks like an easy fix to them all. Not sure if another solenoid is easy to find for the one that is broken on the starter motor but well worth replacing as it would make it more desirable if you intend to sell it.
Pricing things can be a case of supply and demand. If there are a lot of people looking for one you can achieve a slightly better price. Do a search on the auction sites to see how many if any are up for grabs and how much. This can dictate selling price unless you ahve something in better shape or condition. You can do a test on each engine and make a list of repairs then cost those and then you can offer the same engine as is or repaired.
Just an idea!
Cheers John

Engines / Re: I need help identifying what engines I have
« on: October 02, 2018, 07:52:43 AM »
Really nice little engine Shawn. Be gentle removing the red paint from the ID tag so that it makes it easier for you to read.
sometimes a bit of oven cleaner for a brief moment will start to remove the paint otherwise a careful scrape with a scraper then soem paint thinners but be quick with a dry cloth to wipe off the excess thinners.

Engines / Re: I need help identifying what engines I have
« on: October 01, 2018, 06:35:43 AM »
Pics need to be compressed before they will load up. Usually there is a serial plate on the side of the engine if it is a Lister or on or near the head on a Petter (I think). Once you have some pics up it will make it easier.
Good luck with it and look forward to seeing them.

Engines / Re: Losing the will .....
« on: September 10, 2018, 06:52:08 AM »
It does sound mainly like a fuel issue. All advise offered so far is good advise so take your time and systematically go through the fuel system.Starting with a spotlessly clean fuel tank, lines and carby. Try using a pressurize can of carby cleaner and spray it through all the galleries to ensure they are clear. check and set the float as suggested. Make some basic settings to your air bleed screw, I usually use 1 1/2 turns out from the bottom of the thread. Try to start and run and hopefully all will be good for you.
Next check your valve clearance, again already suggested and gap them to specifications.
If after all this you still have an issue you have to consider the magneto and a suspect coil. Coils can work when cold and break down and stop working as they warm up. I have a flywheel/magneto ignition tester. It allows me to test the points, must be spotlessly clean and gapped right, condensor, the most common fail part in ignitions and then the coil. It allows me to test the condition of the coil and shows me a spark in a window. Then I put the meter into warm mode which heats the coil and then do the test again. A bad coil will not spark again once warm as it is 'tracking' inside somewhere. This means that there is a break in the insulation or moisture is inside and the spark will track down the carbon, moisture and short out.
Try replacing the condensor first if you feel there is a problem after setting your points. Remember always remove your points and thoroughly clean them and where they sit to remove any dust, oil or grease. Keep us informed as to your progress.

Definitely would mount it on timber skids and bolt the timber down solid. Earlier it was noted that if bolted directly to concrete there is a possibility that the concrete may not be perfectly even and level and can cause a foot to break. I know it does as I have a leg broken off a small hit n miss engine and now I need to weld it up and then use some timber between the foot and the steel frame.

I would use the 'KISS' method and bolt it to the concrete directly. Many old engines were mounted on concrete plinths with no problems. Usually the concrete plinth is a heavy lump as well and about 12" thick or more depending on the size of the engine. My 8hp CD Lister was a gen-set engine and was only ever directly bolted to an "I" beam skid and the gen-set was bolted to it as well, all with no issues.

Engines / Re: Petter PH2 engine
« on: August 25, 2018, 07:54:28 AM »
Hi Stef,
Thank you so much for the link, I do appreciate it. It gives the details of the engine but no reference to ages. SO using the email link I have sent them an email in hope they can help.
I had a similar problem dating a David Brown tractor. It offered a total number built during each year and since I knew the year of manufacturer I could estimate how many were made per month and that gave me a rough date it came off the production line.
So hopefully the reply will be favourable and again I thank you for the link. It has been saved on my list.
Cheers John

Engines / Re: Petter PH2 engine
« on: August 25, 2018, 06:58:03 AM »
IS there a place I can search for the details of this engine so I can estimate its' age please?

Engines / Petter PH2 engine
« on: August 21, 2018, 01:49:57 AM »
Hi Guys,
I have been asked to try and find out the age of this engine that is in a Dumper truck it is a 2 cylinder Petter PH2-67055 rated at 18HP @ 2000rpm . This is the only details I have of the number so far. Hopefully this is enough to find out the age.
Thanks in advance, Cobba.

Engines / Re: Cracks in piston insert
« on: August 12, 2018, 05:43:56 AM »
I am interested in the outcome of this rebuild. What did you decide to do and how has it turned out?  you have put a lot of hard work into your rebuild and it looks great so far.

some one mentioned "yellow cake". Does this mean it was nuclear at some time? The Greenies would love it!   :police:

Engines / Re: SR2 bad vibrations
« on: August 12, 2018, 05:32:39 AM »
Sometimes 'terminology' can get lost when making a description on things done. "Polishing' the bore would be something I would avoid but having it lightly honed would be better especially when fitting new rings. the rings need something to 'bite' into so that they can seal and give good compression. doing a compression test on a new engine may not achieve much as the rings have not been bedded in and once they do you should have no issues there. With all that work done you need to look at other sources of the problem. Have a very close look at what the engine is mounted to. Is it solid and strong and not rotting away?

I just re read your last post and you say that with the upgrades to the engine it now starts on the 2nd turn and idles nicely and is much cleaner. SO does this mean the problem has gone?

Engines / Re: SR2 bad vibrations
« on: August 07, 2018, 02:32:05 AM »
I would start by doing a full service on the engine and a compression check to establish where the problem lies. Hopefully it is just as suggested a fuel system issue and not rings and bearings. Either way it is a time thing more than anything else.
Good luck with the trouble shooting.

Engines / Re: More engine questions
« on: August 04, 2018, 06:39:16 AM »
Another form of fuel saving is from the past too. Have a look at engines described as Hit n Miss. I have a couple of them one air cooled the other is hopper cooled but the theory of them is not to be firing all the time. they use the inertia of flywheel/s to keep the momentum going and only firing once the governor is opened because it is running a bit slow. Not ideal for a car but as stationary engines they are unbeatable.

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