Hi Jim, I have a PDF of a A25Lister Air Cooled engine which is the SR1 engine. This has been my reference manual for my SR2. As I mentioned it is too large for me to post on the Forum but if you PM me with an email I can then forward it onto you if you like. Yes the first 2 pages are a bad scan copy of the manual but the rest is very clear. So it is yours if you want it.
Cheers cobba

They would not attach sorry. Files are too big and I cannot compress them on this dinosaur.

Although it looks a fairly newish engine I don't think that an ID plate would have been glued on. Usually they have very small rivets holding them on,
On older engine the plate usually is rivetted onto the block near the injector pump and below the head. It sounds as if you may need to do a very close search with a good torch light and look again for the ID plate.

Not completely sure what your asking about the governor but if it is about stripping the governor assembly for painting then yes it can be done just take lots of pics and as a part comes off lay it down in order so you have a record as to how and what order it goes back together.
Never knew that about the springs either. It is good to learn new things each day but my problem is remembering them.
What do you plan to do as far as the painting?  Bare metal then depending on the paint an under coat/ primer then top coat/s. Remember that there are parts of the engine that get hot bloody hot like an exhaust manifold and some heads so a suitable paint should be chosen. I have sprayed a few different toys from tractors, mowers and stationary engines. I have used colours suitably matched to original colour from engine enamels to using 2pac paint. With the 2pack I did use an primer that was the same brand paint as the the 2pac. I have learnt over the years to pic the paint and buy it as a system undercoat/primer then top coat even their thinners if required. By doing this you will have far less chances of a problem. I have read a few times that people used a primer/undercoat of one brand and a different brand top coat and had all sorts of issues from rejection to crinkling.
Engine enamel did a great job on the engine of the David Brown Cropmaster tractor and then used 2pac on the rest of the tractor. Not one person has picked up on the slight colour difference. I used engine enamel on an air cooled mower and it is fine on the barrel but a failure on the head as it got too hot for the rating on the paint. There are extreme high temp engine enamels but I have not used them and a brother in law bought a can of that extreme high temp stuff to spray his headers on a V8 restoration but the car is not assembled as yet so not tested that result.
Like so many things, preparation is the key to a good finish as well as weather. We get a lot of humidity during mid to late Spring and onto Summer so don't spray in those conditions as humidity bubbles will appear in a while down the track.

I am not able to help you with the details but somewhere either on this site or in Google has the details for dating the Lister engines. I dont know when they crossed over the dating system but after a certain date they had to use a different system because it would be confused with the real old engines.
While waiting do a Google search for Lister engine dating you might be surprised of the outcome.
Sounds like you have done a lot of research already so well done on that.
Cheers John.

I have no experience in this governor either but it is similar to others I have played with. Always the most important thing to do is to take a pic at every stage of dismantling this makes it easy to assemble. Hopefully you have not moved the adjustment of the linkage set up as it would have been close to being correct.
I would be a bit suspicious of the mismatched spring too but it just might run as they are. Not sure what part of the planet you are in but I would find a local parts supplier or a pair of new springs similar to what you have and fit them. Often I find replacement springs at the local hardware here, I measure the overall length and the thickness of the spring and count the coils too. Springs are cheap to buy so consider replacing them.

It will be an interesting read if you can find it. Injecting water as far as I know and understand, and this depends on how much you introduce before blowing the top off the piston, The water turns to steam and that is what loosens the carbon and it then exits through the exhaust.
I have heard of other methods used to de-glaze a bore but they are so far out of left field that it would do more damage than leaving it as is.