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Messages - cobbadog

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436
General Discussion / Re: A Pulley On Each Flywheel?
« on: July 19, 2021, 01:01:18 PM »
I can't see too many if any isues mounting two pulleys, one each side. The only thing you might need to consider is if it is a crank start that you have room to swing the handle.
As for clutching this would take up a bit of room that your crank handle might need. Other option is one pulley off one side and to a line shaft for the driving of any thing else you want. Flat belt pulleys are an easy on off thing to do or to leave them slack and use a tensioner to engage. A similar tensioner could be done on a vee belt set up but they will burn a bit after long time of not working.
What type of pulley and clutch were you thinking of?

437
General Discussion / Re: Bernard Petrol
« on: July 17, 2021, 06:39:30 AM »
Well done and what a little ripper of an engine. I do like the K.I.S.S. method (keep it simple stupid) so a lawn mower throttle would be my choice but it is your project so your choice. When I post a video I usually post it on my YouTube account then post the link to the Forums where I want it to go, if that helps. You may be more puta savy than me which would not be hard.

438
General Discussion / Re: Utility trailer
« on: July 17, 2021, 06:35:22 AM »
So many choices to go with and I guess it will be down to what is at hand all air, all electric or a combination. They will work one way or the other.
Since I don't know the answer I will put a question up to see if I can learn something. I know that using air tools here in a temperate climate where the temps rarely get down to 0' I do know that air tools get very cold and can start forming moisture on the outside of them. Would this be a factor in cold climate where the temp does fall below 0'?
Can't remember where this is all happening climate wise but for me it is something to consider.

439
Engines / Re: Lister JK6
« on: July 16, 2021, 12:35:58 PM »
G'Day and welcome Daf Boy.
Something that will help us is an approximate locstion as this Forum is world wide. Usual places to look other than here will be the auction sites and talking to some of the boat builders local to you who may have a lead to an engine. The more places you visit and ask the better the chances are that you will find one.
Sometimes things turn up quickly and other times you need to be patient. Wish you luck looking for the engine and that you find a good one. Let us know how you get on.

440
General Discussion / Re: Utility trailer
« on: July 13, 2021, 07:07:16 AM »
No, need to have a thanks button or similar but by your replies it is obvious how you feel.
With all those items to be driven you could mount them up but not have the belts connected permanently, only when needed as each item will require HP to drive whether in use , under load or not.
So what size engine are you thinking of?
You have a good plan and as suggested once you have everything you feel you wish to have on the trailer then do some trial set outs to see if they will all fit plus do a good estimate of the weight involved. As you will be aware, water is 1kg/litre so a fire fighting tank will possibly be the heaviest if not 2nd heaviest. Just on these two items I would consider a tandem axle set up as a walking suspension so that all 4 wheels are equally carrying the weight at all times over rough terrain.

441
General Discussion / Re: Utility trailer
« on: July 13, 2021, 12:16:04 AM »
Yes, sorry for being so vague but I would run a generator off the Lister. Your choice as to if it is a Lister combination unit or a blended set up using a new model generator. Yes electric compressor and avoid line shafts and pulleys at all costs, too dangerous and can get stuff caught up in them. Of course you can run air tools as well when set up this way.
Mike, I can see why you had the rocking motion, it is because the flywheels are running forward and backward. If the engine was rotated 90' to have the flywheels facing across the trailer and over the axle then the motion would be very minimal, but this creates a slight issue in starting it up unless a starter is adapted whether it be friction drive or other.
I like your video Mike. One way of helping you steady up the trailer when in action is a set of 4 swing down caravan stabilizer legs. They can swing down then they are wound down via use of a crank.

442
General Discussion / Re: Utility trailer
« on: July 12, 2021, 12:57:11 PM »
Sounds like a b eaut project and once set up will serve you for many years. Mounting the Lister on a trailer will do no harm to it but I certainly would consider a way to cover the engine from the elements when not in use and travelling.
Depending on which Lister you are considering as to what rating your trailer springs should be and if you only require a single or dual axles which would help us make a more informed reply.
There are many Listers already coupled to generators  of various sizes and would be perfectly matched engine HP to Kva. Ensure your arc welder is able to be run by the size generator you are thinking. Just meeting the specs of the welder will work but means that the generator will be working hard when your welding instead go a little bit bigger on the generator so it does not have to work hard and will last longer. Then all your power tools will work no problems. Even if you have air tools for the compressor depending on the size of the compressor, cfm rating, if the compressor can keep up supply.
There is a lot to think about and if you have all the tools then lay them out on the ground inside the size deck you intend for the trailer to see how and more importantly where they are best suited. A heavy engine and generator usually best over the axle then balance the load front and rear weight wise but still give easy access.
I would like to know more and see some pics about this project as it is an interesting one but sit down and do some sums on the amount of electricity you need to generate to make this rig work for you.

443
Engines / Re: Lister D Carburettor Strip Down
« on: July 06, 2021, 07:27:11 AM »
Check that your needle and seat function as it should buy blowing into the inlet at the top while pushing the needle up and down. If it starts and stops it will be fine. If you need to adjust the float level and this is a guess as I have no pic of it but you use a flat washer/s between the seat and the housing of the body. If the seat screws in make sure it is firm not too tight  so it wont loosen and drop down onto the float.
Yes, leave the butterfly assembly alone as it is moving so no need to play with that.
Not sure again without a pic what you describe as the 'needle valve cap and the plunger'. So cannot comment.
Does the large knurled knob rotate and able to be totally removed from the body? This is your fuel regulator as I understand it and controls the amount of fuel going into the engine.
Do you have a manual for your engine? If not I generally find them using Google search somewhere. It would be nice if this site had a thread which lists workshop manuals and make it easy for owners to find it an download. There may be one in this Forum but I dont know for certain so maybe ask the Admin for some help.

444
Engines / Re: Lister D Carburettor Strip Down
« on: July 05, 2021, 06:42:59 AM »
Ok, I will attempt to make out exactly what you have in your pics.
To me it is not a carby but it is a fuel mixer which means that the large knurled knob on top of the green part in your 1st pic is only a needle valve and should screw straight out. To confirm this turn the assembly upside down and look at the inside where the needle comes down to confirm my theory.


In the second picture that part is for the needle to contact and should not be removed from the float assembly. Again if you look at the green assembly in the 1st pic there should be a needle and seat to control the fuel flow. That is the only part you need to dismantle and clean. Leave the float assembly alone other than lifting it out of the float chamber and cleaning the bowl.

If this is not the case please post more pics of the under side of both assemblies, the float chamber and mixer body. Also if you have trouble removing the main metering needle (the large knob on top) then start soaking the lot in a penetrating oil, diesel or anything to get into the thread to free it up. Electrolysis is also very good at removing rust and freeing up tight screws. Let me know what happens but do not force anything.

445
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Mystery engine?
« on: July 01, 2021, 07:19:46 AM »
If you intend to cover that lovely set up in, I would put a sheet metal cover over the top and then a wire mesh around the sides to allow full free flow air for cooling.

446
Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 29, 2021, 12:33:09 PM »
Doi ng all the sums with help I must add really did my head in but I got there in the end. Even now just briefly reading the memo I wrote out I started having a migrain and all the pain came flooding back and I too wonder how this all worked out.
I received so much help in working this out from another Forum I visit and that is Smokstack and it is based in the USA and has so many topics it will make your head spin. In the machine shop section which covers nearly all types of lathes, mills shapers drills etc and the guys there are always polite and very helpful. I have had a lot of help from these guys in making improvements on my lathe. Things I never knew about like centering the tailstock and for this I bought a dial indicator that measures down to 0.001mm w2hich for me is accurate. When applying the information on how to centre it I did get it to  being 0.000mm, perfect by the dial and I am certain that the final adjustment was more about the grunt I made rather than the adjustment of the screws.

447
Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 29, 2021, 07:27:26 AM »
Ok I dug this out of the file and hope it shows you how I built it. It shows 3 gears that I bought off a Chinaman and the product was brilliant and cheap off Fleabay auction site. I welded the round pieces at right angles and use the single bolt as a pivot and a lock to hold the dial indicator onto the lead screw. I also made the marks on the top of the indicator and used a white marker pen. The theory was after I worked out which size gears I needed and I will post a copy of the info I found, I then put the indicator in the hole and used the grub screw to hold the gear on the end of the shaft. So far this has worked well for me to make some BSF threads using a 20mm lead screw.

THREAD CHASING DIAL INFO

I have 3 gears on the stem of my metric thread cutting dial and they are 28, 30 and 32 teeth. Those give you the prime numbers 2,3,5 & 7, which combined with a few different gears will give you all the metric thread pitches you will need. Not quite as straightforward as cutting TPI on an imperial lathe, but 95% of the world's machinists cope. I can take a photo of my thread chasing chart, ie dial teeth v pitch, if that will help.

So that means I would need a 20, 21 and 27 Tooth gear to get all the thread pitches my lathe allows for....


The screw-cutting thread indicator dial meshes with the leadscrew via a 30 tooth gear. To get the indicator dial to rotate once the carriage has to move 90mm (number of teeth x leadscrew pitch). Only those metric pitches that divide exactly into 90 will be able to use the dial when screw-cutting. Thus pitches of:-
0.5, 0.6, 1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 and 3 will work, pitches of 0.7, 0.8 and 1.75 won′t work.
Replacing the 30 tooth gear with a 28 tooth gear would work for the missing pitches but not for all. With a 28 tooth gear the carriage has to move 84mm for a full turn of the indicator and 84 is divisible by 0.7, 0.8, and 1.75. So either change the gear, make an indicator that has both gears or just leave the leadscrew engaged and reverse the lathe.


I think on my leadscrew a 21 tooth gear on the dial indicator will get me the missing pitches. 21 * 3 = 63mm per full turn
For 0.45 pitch: 63 / 0.45 = 140.
For 0.7 pitch: 63 / 0.7 = 90.
For 1.75 pitch: 63 / 1.75 = 36.
Therefore a 21 tooth gear will give these pitches on a full turn and half turn. It will give the 1.75 and 0.45 on each quarter segment.
So I guess I need to source a 21 tooth gear.

With a 3mm pitch lead screw, you do not need a threading dial for the 1mm and 1.5mm threads. They will be synchronized at any place that you engage the half nuts. You literally can not get them wrong unless you remove and remount either the tool or the work.

I have not worked with a lathe with a metric screw, but I believe they usually have thread dials with some internal gearing. This is one of the things that proponents of the metric system do not talk about when they are bashing the English system which uses threads defined in threads PER inch and therefore has much simpler threading rules. I can attempt to give you some guidance for a simple dial that would work but may not be as convenient to use as the ones usually provided by the OEMs. The suggestions below assume a simple dial with the gear and the dial on the same shaft with no additional gearing between them.

The 1.25mm thread will synchronize at multiples of 5mm (1.25mm x 4 = 5mm) that are evenly divisible by 3mm. So you would need a gear that would allow you to travel one of those distances (15mm, 30mm, etc.) The obvious one seems to be 15mm and you would get that with a 5 tooth gear. That's too small. 10 teeth would give you a 30mm distance and that may be workable. If you have an even number of divisions on the dial face, you would be able to engage the half nuts on two of those lines that are 180 degrees apart as they would represent distances of 15mm.

Likewise the 1.75mm thread will synchronize at intervals of 7mm (1.75mm x 4 = 7mm) that are evenly divisible by 3mm. A 7 tooth gear would provide a 21mm distance (3 x 7mm) but I don't know if that would be practical. You may have to go to 14 teeth for a distance of 42mm. With 14 teeth for a distance of 42mm, if you have an even number of divisions on the dial face, you would be able to engage at two of them that are 180 degrees apart. So the same dial would work for both of the threads that you mention that actually need a threading dial.

You can work out other gears for additional thread pitches in a similar manner.

If you use these suggested gears you will have to wait a bit for the synchronization points. It may be faster to just leave the half nuts engaged and back up the spindle. That will work for all threads.

I would appreciate it if someone can check my logic and figures above.




448
Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 29, 2021, 07:12:35 AM »
Sure will as soon as time allows. we have been away on holidays and now my work is bombing me with way too much. Would love some time to take a breath. As soon as I can I will do for you.

449
Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 27, 2021, 07:01:10 AM »
Yes, exactly, leave the half nuts engaged and reverse and that is fine IF your lathe has a brake and will stop as soon as you hit the stop button but mine runs on so If I was running a thread up a shank to the head of a bolt I would crash into the head of the bolt.

450
Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: June 26, 2021, 12:14:17 PM »
That bit of information helps us.
Pull the plug out and put a small amount of fuel down te plug hole and fit the plug and start it. But it now sounds like fuel or a bad coil/condensor. By trying the fuel down the plug hole this will eliminate the fuel issue and if you have a squirty bottle you can squirt it into the carby to keep it going.

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