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Messages - akghound

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16
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Changfa/Listeroid fuel consumption
« on: January 23, 2007, 04:56:54 PM »
I have just started using the Changfa 1115 engine with a 10kw ST Head to power our new house. Our power demands have risen some but not really very much. Anyway the old Listeroid GM-90, Satyajeet with a 12kw ST Head would run 4hrs on a gallon of fuel under 80-90% load. It ran at 765RPM, was set up for 750 but need a little extra to keep the voltage up under load.
The new Changfa uses more fuel, not sure just how much more but it is a noticeable amount. It is running at 1800RPM and powering a 10kw ST Head. Has anyone on this forum run one of these engines enough to get a fuel consumption rate on it?
Thanks ….Ken Gardner

17
Listeroid Engines / Re: Head Gasket fabrication
« on: January 17, 2007, 04:16:04 PM »
I found that a crack in the head is the cause of the leak. I'll be replacing the head and head gasket with new ones, but I'm still interested in knowing how to make my own head gaskets. Just sort of one of those "DYI" things I guess.
Ken Gardner

18
Listeroid Engines / Re: Head Gasket fabrication
« on: January 15, 2007, 12:01:22 AM »
If it was me it wouldn't be any kind of sandwich, but solid copper.

Copper gaskets are easy enough to make, if you have gasket problems and a head pull anyway, make a copper one and see how it goes, don't forget the annealing tho... did a thread some weeks ago about how to make one DIY...

I'm looking for the thread on making the gaskets, can't find it please point me the right direction

19
Listeroid Engines / Re: Broken idler pics
« on: June 27, 2006, 12:33:39 AM »
I attempted to post pictures but couldn't, sorry. ???
Ken Gardner

20
Listeroid Engines / Re: Chewed Up Idler
« on: June 12, 2006, 01:15:52 AM »
Ken, do you still have the old camshaft? Would you be interested in sending it to me for modification? I'll look at some of my other camshafts tomorrow to determine the possibility. I think I can turn the cam gear off of the hub and shrink a sprocket on it. It wouldn't hurt to have some rivets or bolts holding it also if there is room, although a good shrink fit shouldn't need it.  I have a 16/2 crank that is missing the crank gear. I can mike it but its no guarantee that it is the same size as the other listeroids.

Mike
I'll send one to you Monday morning if I can find you mailing address.
Ken Gardner

21
Listeroid Engines / Re: Chewed Up Idler
« on: June 12, 2006, 12:57:57 AM »
Is there a chance that the idler gear seized to the pinion? When I took this one apart I had to drive the idler out of the gear. If this is the case the crank gear would tear the teeth off of the idler. I would post pictures but coppermine and I are not getting along right now.

22
Listeroid Engines / Chewed Up Idler
« on: June 06, 2006, 05:06:56 PM »
Oh NOOO!!  :o  I lost another idler gear in my engine; this is the second one. The engine seemed to running just fine, no indication that there was trouble brewing, then bam, it was suddenly out of time, then dead.  :'( The good part is there seems to be no damage to the cam gear. I actually didn't pull it out yet, just looking from the outside.
At any rate this is a 16/1 Saytajeet (GM90) and I would like to find out if there is a brass or bronze gear available for it. Other then a small inverter and old weak batteries this is our only source of power so it is imperative that we get her going ASAP.
In fact any ideas or opinions are helpful and welcome.
Thanks, You guys rock!!
Ken Gardner

23
General Discussion / Re: Import questions - not EPA related
« on: May 04, 2006, 09:05:50 PM »
Would it be feasable to find a Canadian Deale, purchase it up there and bring it in yourself?
Just a thought .... Ken Gardner

24
Other Fuels / Re: How about Crude Oil
« on: May 03, 2006, 05:39:23 PM »
Here are the pictures of the engine


25
I had to pull mine when I replaced the cam shaft a while back. It too was stuck. I placed a 2x4 through the hole in the opposite wheel and wedged it so it could not turn. Then I carefully turned the one I need to remove with a short 2x4. It came loose without a hitch. Be careful not to remove it all the way off the crankshaft, unless you really need to, they are heavy and hard to get back on. My engine had a larger diameter area on the crank where the flywheel rides. Once the flywheel slid past that area it was hard to get back. To do so I simply slid the gib pin back under it (leaving it loose) to "Pick The Flywheel Up" a little bit and slide it back on to the larger area. 
Ken Gardner

26
Waste Vegetable Oil / Re: Vegie oils & conversions
« on: May 03, 2006, 04:07:46 PM »
I talk to some guys who run veggie in their vehicles and they are realy cautious about getting the oil too hot because this makes it lose its lubrication qualities.....cant be good for a diesel engine


Is the loss of  lubrication a problem with HOT Vegetable oil like it is withHOT Diesel? I didn't realize that VO lost it's lubricating properties with heat.

Re: Wood fired boiler ... Good idea, especially for the  cold climates.
However this would not get the combustion chamber up to operation temperatures so even if the VO was heated as well as the block the VO would not burn correctly for the first few minutes. Would this be a big problem? I really don't know but I don't think it is a good idea to burn VO in a cold condition. How long does it take for the combustion chamber to get to full operating temps? It seems like I need to run mine a few minutes before it is capable of full power out put on diesel. I believe that the best bet is to start on diesel then switch over after everything is up to operating temp.
Ken Gardner

27
Waste Vegetable Oil / Re: Vegie oils & conversions
« on: May 02, 2006, 01:00:11 AM »
Hi Ken
Do you have any problems with carbon build up running wvo. I had quiet a bit of build up yesturday when i pulled the head. I have over 200 hrs on it.

regards

Tim

Yes, at first I did have carbon problems. I tried several ways to get around it but failed until I started using the Injection Line Heater. The trick is to get the WVO 180-200* at the injector. Secondly,Purge with diesel after each run, I add a haelthy dose of Diesel Service in the purge fuel (Gray container). I also have a 180* thermostate on the engine, I believe this helps as well. In fact I attempted to run without it when I was uaing a water pump, before thermosiphening, and the engine actually ran cooler and the carbon problem existed. All in all I believe the Injection Line Heater did more good then anything else.
Ken Gardner

28
Waste Vegetable Oil / Re: Vegie oils & conversions
« on: May 01, 2006, 08:17:50 PM »
One article said up to 150 Centegrade!. This is the key, I think.
Make the oil as hot as you can get it. Insulate the high pressure line to the nozzle. Start the engine on petro diesel and when hot and under loadswitch the source over to WVO. Run the engine as hot as you can.
This is the way I am going to run mine. As soon as I can.
Dennis

Running these engines on WVO works just fine, however there seems to be a lot of mis-information about doing so. Be careful, 150*(c) is over 300*(f), I wonder what this would do to the Injector Pump. This seems to be way too hot, I believe that 180-200(f) is more in tune to what would work best.
There also was mention of changing the injector, I'm using the stock injector with no problem.
It is true, starting and shuting down on diesel or bio-d is a good idea. I don't know why one would have to switch when over "Under Load", I don't think it matters what the load is when the switch is made.
Be careful running the engine too hot, again all you need is 180-200*(f)
This has been my experance anyway.

Ken Gardner

29
Waste Vegetable Oil / Re: Vegie oils & conversions
« on: May 01, 2006, 06:51:48 PM »
I have posted some pictures in my gallery

Gen Shed

Filtration Barrel

Top of filtration barrel
Check out the gallery for more pictures and better discriptions
If you have any questions please feel free to ask away
Ken Gardner

30
Listeroid Engines / Re: Broken Gib keys
« on: May 01, 2006, 03:39:33 PM »
This happened to us on a Sawmill drag chain once. I don't know how good you are at welding, we simply welded a bolt onto the remaining part of the Jib Pin. The portion that was welded was ground flat so as to get a good match on the surface of the pin. Then a Slide Hammer was attached to the bolt and the pin came right out with just a few whacks of the hammer. I think that the heat from the welding helped loosen it. Use caution here not to over heat the shaft!!
Ken Gardner

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