I discovered there are castellated nuts fastening the cap to the conrod of my CS1.
There are no split pins fitted.
It appears to have run for an extended time this way, going by the sludgy black stuff in the sump.
I'd like to fit some split pins if I can.
One of the nuts has a slot that lines up with the hole in the conrod bolt.
But the other bolt does not have a hole visible - likely just not lined up with the nut's slot.
Trouble is, the nut is very tight indeed. I could only get it to budge slightly, in the direction that would make it tighter.
I'm not to keen on loosening the nut to get it lined up with the hole.
Am I safe to continue running the engine as is, without the split pins?
Any suggestions for lining up the hole with the nuts' slots?

Thanks for the replies.

I'm under the impression that detergents are not the same as dispersants.
Detergents clean surfaces, dispersants are what keep particles in suspension.
It may be that detergents have some dispersant action? I don't know.

Sometimes it seems that multi-grade oils are assumed to be high detergent, but I don't see a direct connection.
It could be that a low- or non-detergent oil contains viscosity modifiers?

To try to answer the query about what's so bad about having particles in suspension -
When a full flow filter is fitted in line before reaching the bearing surfaces, the particles are removed from the system in time.
With no full flow filtering, the particles could theoretically give the oil some abrasive character.
Better to have them fall away to the bottom?


No doubt Lister engines can last a very long time with any oil.
But I wonder if they'd last a very, very long time with a particular oil.

So, you're blaming the old drill press!

A fix might be an oversized taper pin in a newly reamered hole?
Or just redrill and taper reamer to the standard in a different position?

The caution about HCl (hydrochloric acid) is good advice. Wear glasses & gloves with this stuff, and no clothes you plan to keep.
I'd also suggest, after a good rinse of the acid-treated parts, to give a treatment with something alkaline - maybe washing soda or dilute caustic soda - to neutralise the acid.

Acid is good for rust - it virtually evaporates it.
Alkali is good to degrease.

Jordan

Is the cooling water salt or fresh?

Jordan

Thanks for the info.

Jordan

I saw a manual for a Russian vehicle, where they recommended diluting the oil with kerosene for freezing conditions.
I don't remember though, whether it was for the petrol engine, or for the transmission.

Jordan