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Messages - Jordan

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Things I want to Buy / Re: Pulley for alternator
« on: June 17, 2019, 02:56:00 PM »
Thanks Bob,
I saw that, and would be up for $100 for the pulley, Taper-Loc bush & postage.
I may have to buy it next week, if nothing comes up cheaper.

Looking at my box of miscellaneous pulleys, I must be rich!


Generators / Re: Pulley wanted for alternator
« on: June 17, 2019, 02:49:39 PM »
I can buy a new pulley at sobering expense.
There's just too many variations to expect to find as a used or surplus part, exactly the one needed for a particular job, unless one is very lucky. ...especially in a small market like Australia. - diameter,, belt section, bore, number of grooves, material.
But I thought I'd give it a shot and ask here.
I have a box of various sized pulleys, and suppose others may do also, perhaps under a bench at the back of the shed. :)
The shaft on the alternator is 1 3/8", or 35mm - so close I think either would be OK.
Looks like Taper-loc (and similiar) are pretty well standard these days. These seem expensive too, even though they must be produced in huge numbers.
I can understand why they are popular. My alternator's old pulley (wrong diameter) was steel, 4 groove and with a long key - and very tight. It did not want to budge, until I brought in heavy weaponry - a custom puller made from inch thick steel plate, with an hydraulic pump and ram, and a blowtorch.
I'd be happy with a plain pulley, even if the shaft hole is too small as I can bore it out.
Come to think, if it's too big, I could bush it smaller.

Generators / Pulley wanted for alternator
« on: June 17, 2019, 05:12:12 AM »
I need a B section, 2 groove pulley in cast iron or steel.
The PCD is 7 inches, or about 7 1/2 inches overall diameter.

It's to mate with my 6/1 engine that has a 16 1/2" overall diameter.

I'm in Australia.


Things I want to Buy / Pulley for alternator
« on: June 17, 2019, 05:02:46 AM »
I'm after a B section, 2 groove pulley in cast iron or steel.
The PCD is 7 inches, or overall diameter about 7 1/2 inches.

Please call 0403 221 884, or message here.
I'm in Australia.


Original Lister Cs Engines / Calculating pulley size
« on: April 27, 2019, 10:52:38 AM »
I need a pulley for the alternator to go with the one on the engine.
I can easily measure the overall diameters, but new pulleys seem to be described in terms of pitch circle diameter.
Is it OK to work with the overall diameter figures?
Then I can just ask for a pulley of the required overall size?
Or is there an important difference, so I need to calculate the PCD of the engine pulley, then order the appropriate alternator pulley also in PCD terms?
I'd need to find out the formula to convert overall to PCD diameters.

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Keyway width puzzle
« on: April 17, 2019, 03:23:26 AM »
The crankshaft has centres drilled at the ends, but they aren't recessed.
It looks as old as the rest of the engine, made in 1953.
14mm is less than 9/16", so the keyway hasn't been widened.

Mine engine was originally part of a Start-o-matic.
Could it be how these were made,  to prevent easy fitment of the heavier flywheels to standard engines?

Original Lister Cs Engines / Keyway width puzzle
« on: April 16, 2019, 08:20:24 AM »
I removed a pulley from my CS1, to put on the other (exhaust) side for driving an alternator.
The key was a loose fit, so I made a new one on my mill/drill.
I was surprised to find the keyway on the crankshaft measures 14mm wide, not the expected 9/16" which is slightly wider.
At first I thought it just wanted some dressing with a file, to remove burrs that made it seem narrower.
But, it really does seem to be 14mm, with no discernible lip after cleaning it up.
It even measures 14mm at the bottom of the keyway, at the extreme end of the crankshaft, so it's not just because of deformation.
I reduced the width of my new key for the part that engages the crankshaft groove, the only way it would fit - OK now.
Is this really a metric sized keyway?

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Running temperature?
« on: March 28, 2019, 10:29:21 AM »
Lots of interesting replies to my query, thanks all.
I went with the big drum system because Lister seemed to have recommended it.
However I do see that over-cooling is a possible unwanted effect.
Anti-freeze I discovered was going to be expensive, but the engine is in a shed, though not an insulated one.
We get a few sub-zero Celsius days each Winter. Is it risky to not use anti-freeze in these circumstances?
I thought to avoid a thermostat to keep it simple. That has appeal.
I regret not using a radiator, I think. I do have one that could be appropriate.
It came from a very old big air compressor, so it cooled air. It has copper tubes with spiky, porcupine-like cooling fins on them.
I think it would do for the Lister, and looks interesting.
For the time being though, I will use the existing drum that I went to some trouble to install.
I'm thinking that temperature could be controlled by throttling the flow at the tank's gate valve.
Water at the bottom of the tank might be too cool, but restricted flow should bring the temperature to a happier level within the engine.
Temp gauge at the top to monitor.
Am I correct in this, or is there something wrong - maybe difficult to maintain a steady temperature?
At this stage I am always with the Lister when it's running, but in future it might be providing back up electric power and need to run unattended for lengthy periods.

Original Lister Cs Engines / Running temperature?
« on: March 27, 2019, 09:30:40 PM »
My 6/1 is cooled by thermo-syphon from the attached 44 gallon drum.
I can control water flow with the gate valve on the drum's bottom opening.
A thermometer was obtained reading up to 120 degrees Centigrade.
I intend to install it on the lower pipe that brings water to the engine.
Is there a recommendation for the optimum temperature to run the Lister?

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: nice video with support role cs
« on: March 13, 2019, 08:29:25 PM »
I don't know what he's saying, but the visuals are marvellous.


Lister Based Generators / Re: AVR?
« on: March 05, 2019, 10:23:52 AM »
We think alike, Glort.
Permanent markers are my friends.
I use them everywhere, even at work.
It's hard for people to critisize, because the benefits of locally accessible info are obvious.

Lister Based Generators / Re: AVR?
« on: March 04, 2019, 05:54:18 AM »
Good idea, Bob.
I'll do that.

Lister Based Generators / Re: AVR?
« on: March 03, 2019, 08:47:33 AM »
Thank you Bob, Mike & Bruce.

I discovered there are also 2 capacitors tucked under the choke.
I put photos here, hope they can be seen:

I'm happy not to use an AVR if it works OK without one. They are surprisingly expensive.
As they have no battery to charge, it's a mystery to me what they do.

I found a manual, but it's of the type that has several wiring diagram variations, all confusing.
Good news is that there's an old guy lives nearby who used to rewind all sorts of electric machines, who came over to check it out.
He took some coil resistance readings and says it's good prospect, so I will now make up mounts for it, and organise the belt transmission from my Lister CS1.


Lister Based Generators / AVR?
« on: March 01, 2019, 08:03:54 AM »
I have an old Markon model LC28D.
I took covers off to have a look, and saw brushes, slip rings, wound stator and rotor.
Also there was a big coil (choke?) mounted on the frame, and some diodes and two adjustable wound resistors.
What wasn't obvious was a regulator.
Is it normal for this alternator not to use a regulator?
Would the addition of an Automatic Voltage Regulator be beneficial?

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