Take your pick
http://www.crompton-instruments.com/downloads/2015/EPP-2040-1115_protectors_201115.pdf

Thanks for all of the instructables This is great stuff....

Looking at the link to Crompton Instruments I did not find any plain voltage monitors but phase and voltage monitors. The one that I believe applies best to my  10HP, 7.35KW, SINGLE PHASE LISTEROID is

  PSF/G3-173/240  http://www.crompton-instruments.com/downloads/2015/EPP-2040-1115_protectors_201115.pdf

Do you think this will work with my single phase generator?

Thank you ....

you could also use a beefy relay with 120V coil.  As the RPM's drop, so does the voltage and the coil will drop, cutting off the load and you don't have to reflash the rotor.
This would work with some fiddling to get to coil to let go before the demag happens.

That sounds like the craziest idea I have ever heard. I love it....
May I ask the definition of 'reflash the motor'?

Thanks,

I tinkered around with it this afternoon and discovered that the nut on top holds the filter chamber in place.

Thanks,

Jim

Greetings Fellow Listeroid Enthusiasts,

I started up my Powerline Listeroid 10/1 today and I noticed fuel leaking out of the fuel filter area. I tried to loosen the nut at the bottom to investigate and it would not budge. I was wondering whether or not the nut at the bottom of the filter actually comes off?

Thank you,

Jim

Hello,

I have set up my Listeroid 10/1 in my garage. I am using various sections of 2" rigid pipe as the muffler system. The system works good thanks to all of the advice given to me by this forum. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good thread sealant for these 2" rigid threads? I called Jeggs Automotive and they could not find anything rated over a temperature of 500 degrees F. I have a tube of 'RUTLAND BUFF' Fireplace Mortar which is rated at 2000 degrees F. However it is rated for mortar and brick only. Has anyone had any experience with this type of problem and can possibly make some recommendations?

Thanks for all of the help.

Jim

+1 Ronmar's suggestion. If the 10 feet is all vertical, just put the stainless flex section right after the turn up.  Use muffler hangers with rubber bits (from your muffler shop) to suspend the vertical section just below the roof.  You don't want that weight on the flex section or the exhaust manifold/head.

Intelligent solution, thanks.

+1 for what 38ac said.  If it dosn't have a metal case to bond and dissipate heat, it probably will fail.

Radio Shack had one in stock in a store?  Last I looked thru one of their component drawers, one that I would say is adequate for this application was not a stocked item...

One like this would work from Surplus Center.  Buy 2, they are cheap, and the closest thing to an active component(other than the brushes) you are going to find in a harmonically excited ST head...

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Transformers-Bridge-Rectifiers/Bridge-Rectifiers/35-AMP-1000-VOLT-KBPC3510-BRIDGE-RECTIFIER-22-1206.axd

Ron

Great stuff 38ac and Ron thanks.
I will just run and pick up a couple more of the kind that I have at Radio Shack and some sink gook.
Ron when you wrote harmonically excited are you referring to the same type of harmonics referred to in the electrical industry?
Thanks for all the help to all. It was nice getting the generator producing again.

Great help you all. I will check the bridge rectifier.

ronmar your video of the interior of your 6/1 helps drive home to me at least the importance of having the correct amount of engine oil in the crank case.