Not fun when off-grid in mid-winter Canada.

Time on engine: about 3500 hours. It's operated well until this suddenly happened.

Found the culprit.......the old bugaboo of casting sand under the head of the piston. A chunk let go........
When new, I tore the whole thing down, cleaned the sand out of the crevices, did a pretty good job of cleaning up the crankcase, but never looked under the piston.

Looks like a chunk recently broke free and went right to the rod bearing with the expected result.


Just pulled the engine down, the crankshaft is hooped beyond any easy repair.
Looks like the bearing seized on the crank, then spun in the rod, then came loose tore up the crank journal some more, this probably happened a few times, looking at the damage.

Of course, I have all the spares on hand EXCEPT a new crank.

My immediate issue is removing the old one.
Tomorrow I will try removing the TRB carriers, then the shaft.
What should I look out for during removal?

Then the replacement: How are the new TRBs installed on the crank?

Once the  new crank has the new bearings installed, and are properly in place, I know how to shim up the carriers, and have shims, just don't have any experience with installing the TRBs on the shaft.

Any advice welcomed.....please!.....

Cheers
Hugh

@Powdermonkey:
Thanks for the kind words, I an just repeating what I learned from some of the older posters from years back. I have tried their ideas and they worked for me.
There unfortunately has been a lot of good (and some pure B.S.) info and threads with interesting characters that have been lost in the various LEF web hosting changes and upgrades over the years.
Cheers
Hugh

@tyssniffen
When I was using a cooling tank the set-up was much like yours. My tank was a bit higher. The bottom fitting on the cooling tank was at least a foot above the bottom fitting on the engine. As a rule of thumb, about 2.6 column of water will give you approximately 1 psi of water pressure. Your cooling system would actually be a bit (just a bit) more efficient with the tank a bit higher. That said, if the circulation is working OK as it is, leave it alone! You are in the ball park.
Eventually, I replaced the 30 gallon cooling tank with a cast iron radiator, but that was for other reasons......less anti-freeze and a faster warm-up without using a thermostat.
Cheers
Hugh

Powdermonkey
Here' more: https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8819.0
This link has an actual drawing....more involved than what I used. Apparently there is a Lister specification for underground silencer. some more searching might locate it .
Cheers
Hugh

A short while back, another member mentioned cleaning out carbon from their exhaust system. I had not done this for 11 years, so decided to give it a go.

Our exhaust system is a baffled underground chamber constructed of concrete blocks in a way that allows the engine exhaust to follow a convoluted maze before exiting via a 4" PVC stack. It does a pretty good job of silencing the exhaust note. The 6/1 is located in an open shed, so there is still the mechanical noise to be heard.

On removing the 2" steel pipe from the cylinder head , I noted no carbon build-up at that end. The total pipe length before entering the Pit is about 8 feet. Inspection of the pit entry end also showed no carbon build-up. I  snaked a brush through the pipe and came up with very little soot build up.

On to the Pit of Doom then......shovelled off the foot or so of soil on top and opened the concrete lids of the chamber. It was another story in there. Some of the passageways (roughly 8" wide by 16" high) were nearly clogged with carbon powder. I dug it all out and put it into some empty hog feed bags (they're quite sturdy) In the end I scooped out around 50 pounds of carbon powder! Amazing at how much got trapped in there! There must be a good use for that stuff, but I could not think of any that would be wife approved, so it went to the local dump.

The actual block structure was completely intact, so after the cleaning, it was easily all buttoned up and recovered with soil. Ready for another 3000+ hours. A messy but necessary job, it was easily completed in a couple of hours.........about the same amount of time that it took to clean up the tools and myself!

I am now wondering what happens to all the soot that might go into a standard type of muffler. Does it burn out due to heat? Does it just get blown out into the air? Does it also collect in the muffler, and how do es one remove it?

At any rate, good to go for another while.

Cheers
Hugh

@ Sir Petteroid

Bottom water fitting on the tank should at least be above bottom water fitting on engine.  Mounting the tank so that the bottom fitting on tank is above top fitting on engine is better!
 [You will find many drawings on the 'net that show the bottom engine to tank line going down. This will work to a degree, but is far less efficient than having the tank installed above the heat source]
Pipe from the bottom engine water fitting should trend up from the engine to tank. Same with top water fitting on engine to top tank fitting.
Always trending up with no kinks to trap air. 1" steam hose (got it from NAPA) works well. Put shut-off valves at tank inlet and outlet so it needs not be drained if engine servicing is required.

Water level in tank must be ABOVE the upper engine-to-tank inlet on the tank.

I have built and used thermosyphon circulators on both our Lister and Listeroid engines as well as summer solar collector for domestic hot water and winter domestic  water heating via coil in the wood stove. Have installed several wood stove/boiler systems. They work!

Keep it all going up. Keep it simple.

Cheers
Hugh

Hello Greg
I have a copy in very good condition.
PM me.
Cheers
Hugh

@ Webman
We are running a 6/1 Listeroid in Canada. It lives outside in an open shed,
and is mostly used in winter for off-grid battery charging.
It has never seen -30* but has seen -20* during several winters.
We use a cast iron radiator with 1" hoses between the engine and rad.
We do not use a thermostat, and agree with 38AC on that one.
No problems with this cooling set-up for the last 11 years and 3000 + hours of operation.
KISS principle works for us.
Cheers
Hugh