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Topics - Hugh Conway

Pages: 1 [2] 3
16
Listeroid Engines / 1000 hour decoke
« on: June 04, 2016, 11:18:49 PM »
We started running this JKSON in 2013 to drive an Utterpower PMG for off-grid service. It has given relatively trouble free service so far. An oil change every 250 hours, the valve gear gets oiled before each run, it gets wiped down once in a while, other than that, it just gets run. The engine lives outside under a shed roof here on the Canadian we(s)t coast.
A few days ago, pulled the head for a 1000 hour decoke and to check on things generally.
Found carbon build up to be very little in the head and comet. The exhaust valve and port had most build up. I pulled out the valves and gave them a clean-up and light lapping. Noticed that the piston head had an area of no carbon and some light pitting. Every so often, I spray about 1 litre of water into the intake at high loading, this may account for little carbon and the pitting. A visual check showed no discernible wear in  in the bore, some cross hatching was still visible and no ridge can be felt at top of ring travel.
When I first started running this engine, I knew next to nothing except to pull it down, clean out the sand, reassemble, and run. Over the hours and years, much has been learned from the expert advise and sometimes questions and mistakes from other amateurs like myself here on the forum. I kept this in mind when putting things back together. 
A major item was to check bump clearance! Before I pulled the cylinder off, The bump measured .120" .No wonder it was hard (read nearly impossible) to hand start in cooler weather. What a difference in starting with the bump set at .075". Now this JKSON starts as easily as my Dursley 6/1.
One reason for the large clearance was several thick cylinder base gaskets. Another problem, the wet sleeve protrusion above the deck was out of tolerance......too proud  by about 7 thou. That was remedied with one of my hand operated milling machines.........patient draw filing did the trick to bring the protrusion into limits.......made the head gasket seal the water passages better as well!
Just for grins, visually checked the crank journal, shiny no scratches. Rod bearing clearance was in tolerance.
Drained the sump, wiped it out with a quart of diesel, changed the aftermarket filter, oiled it up and it is ready for another 1000.....I hope many 1000s!
Thank you all for the help, advise, and assistance. The readily available wisdom and information here makes things lots easier.

Cheers,
Hugh

BTW, I still have that SR2 to give away. Found some time to reassemble it, so might be easier for one of you to get it.

17
General Discussion / BMW R-27 motorcycle
« on: April 28, 2016, 12:39:32 AM »
 Just brought home another project. Don't have any experience with these bikes, but they were well made and strong.
I know, it isn't a diesel, and it can move around, but it does have a single cylinder and a largish flywheel!
This one is fairly a fairly complete model from 1964. All the major parts are here. Needs electrical bits like switches,  some wiring harness work. The engine is free and transmission can be shifted through the gears. The basics are there, needs some knowledge, TLC and some $ for the missing bits.
Anyone have any experience with one of these? Got any bits laying around your shop?
Cheers,
Hugh

18
General Discussion / Consequences of not acting your age
« on: February 27, 2016, 11:40:19 PM »
Nothing at all about Listers or any other engine.....
People who are old enough to know better doing something dumb.

http://imgur.com/gallery/2SvpTAA

No-one I know, but.......

Cheers,
Hugh

19
General Discussion / Tough engine, stupid operator
« on: February 03, 2016, 01:33:55 AM »
I changed over my cooling system today. Removed the 30 gallon tank and installed an old 10 fin cast iron radiator. That part works great.

When done, I fired 'er up to charge my off-grid battery bank. After it warmed up, I removed the air filter and sprayed a bit of water into the intake........do that every so often to clean out the carbon. Slopped a bit of water, so unthinking (my excuse is that I was tired after a long day) picked up a rag to dry things off. The damned thing got sucked into the engine!!!!!

A 10" square cotton rag does slow things down. However, it did not stop, so figured what the hay, let it go and see what happens. After a few minutes it started to pick back up, resumed 650 rpm, and continued to charge the batteries. Has been running for another hour now.......everything normal.
That's one way to clean it up inside; would not recommend it though.

Cheers,
Hugh

20
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Lister SR2 free to good home
« on: January 24, 2016, 07:05:27 PM »
As some of you may recall, a couple of years ago, I was able to rescue an SR2 (1968) Gen Set from a small island near my location.
As life progresses, I can see that time and energy for this restoration project is in short supply. Perhaps there is someone who would like to have this engine, and put it back into running condition. It may just need some further clean-up and reassembly in order to make it run.

I would like to see this go to a good home.

A few caveats:
I do not know if it was in running condition at the time I found it in a covered shed, but it had good compression,
and was covered with years of grime and oil, so not rusted, and was reputed to be running 3 years previously.
The engine is complete, including electric starter and hand crank.
In order to move it through the forest and onto a small riveted aluminium skiff, I had to partially disassemble it. It's a heavy little bugger, thought it might go right through the bottom of the boat! Thread http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=6903.msg78324#msg78324
The generator, a Newage Stamford 9.4kw transformer rectified unit in good condition, is not included. I am holding on to that for a while, though may consider selling it in the future.

The engine and skid frame is available at no cost for someone willing to pick it up at my location. If you are on Vancouver Island, it is a 2 ferry trip. Might even be worth your while if you are on the B.C. mainland.

PM me if interested,
Cheers,
Hugh


21
General Discussion / Starter/generator
« on: January 14, 2016, 05:46:52 PM »
Does anyone have experience using a golf cart or small tractor type 12V starter/generator unit on their 6/1?

I seem to remember seeing this somewhere, but cannot locate the thread. I have a friction starter on my JKSON which works well in dry weather,  but
slips when things are wet. The engine is located in an open shed. We too often have fog or lately freezing fog which makes the flywheel too slippery for a friction starter to operate. The magnets in the PMG add significantly to the cranking effort, so hand cranking is iffy in cold weather. I want a set-up that is better than the friction starter........my wife cannot hand start, and I am getting sufficiently aged that is becomes difficult for me as well, especially when it is cold and damp.......like  in winter here when we use the engine daily.

There are many different models of 12V starter generators available, I have had no answers from vendors as to which has most cranking power. Would anyone have that information? Has anyone any experience with using a starter/generator in this application? Care to share?
Many thanks.
Cheers,
Hugh

22
Red Stone Engines / manual for Redstone
« on: December 28, 2015, 11:19:53 PM »
Might anyone have a manual or pdf for the Redstone?
A friend has an engine, but is not all that mechanically knowledgeable (less than I am at least). Has lost the manual that came with the engine. I have difficulty assisting him without the manual/parts illustration.
Cheers,
Hugh

25
Original Lister Cs Engines / Main plug removal
« on: December 06, 2014, 11:46:53 PM »
Sorry gents, I am still having an issue here. For history see my thread COV WTF  here..... http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=7294.0

The main plug as installed in the head is a different  concave shape than that used with a standard COV or a blanking plug as used in 8/1s and Listeroids.

I have a replacement main plug of the proper shape, but am unable to remove the old one.

Tried the "drive in a hardwood  plug, reinstall the COV with the handwheel screwed out a bit, the main plug will be ejected by the force of compression"
  That method proved unsuccessful

Also reluctantly tried the alternative to be used if the hardwood plug method was unsuccessful: "Tap the hole in the main plug and use a bolt to draw it out"
 Insufficient thread caused the bolt to pull out. Tried with larger bolt, same result. Drilled and tapped larger still  (1/2"  bolt) ....that should do it.....
 Also unsuccessful.

So I think to return to a version of the hardwood plug method........ reinstalled the 1/2" bolt, screw in the blanking plug,  try to START the engine.......lots more compression pressure when the engine actually fires off, I am thinking.
Started the engine, let it fire a few times, but the #%$@+%! main plug is still in there fast, and now must be replaced because I have drilled out and threaded it!

As you know, I am in a remote area with limited resources. This probably needs to be machined out, but my machine shop consists of a selection of hammers and files.

Now what? anyone care to recommend an different approach? Will I have to pull the head and get the plug machined out as a last resort?

As usual, all suggestions welcomed.

Cheers,
Hugh

26
Everything else / Instrument wiring
« on: November 27, 2014, 09:04:29 PM »
Basic stuff for most, though I am not all that well versed in electrics.

I am wanting to add voltmeter, ammeter and frequency meter to my gen circuit.
Here's what I have:
2  150V analog meters
2  20Amp analog meters with circuit transformers
1  Vibrating reed type frequency meter (47-63Hz JBT  Model 30-FHXX)-14)

The idea is to have voltage and amp readings from each 120V leg of the 3KW  gen output, plus a frequency reading.

What I think to be correct:
Voltmeter in parallel with L1/Neutral and L2/Neutral
Ammeters taking output from CTs (with in this case, 1 turn around the CT from each L)
Frequency meter.......not too sure about this one. Can it also be wired in parallel with one of the legs? Can I use one of the CT to Ammeter outputs in parallel with the freq meter?

Can anyone provide a simple schematic so I can wire this up without damaging the instruments?

All assistance gratefully appreciated.

Cheers,
Hugh




27
Original Lister Cs Engines / COV WTF??
« on: October 07, 2014, 12:30:24 AM »
Here is a comparison of COVs
I am having a bit of confusion here. Two different looking COVs.
One (red handle) came out of my Dursley 6/1 Startomatic.
The other (unpainted) is an Indian replacement.
The Indian COV looks like the ones in both the original and Indian parts lists. The other, I have not seen one like it. The business end is concave on the Indian and in parts manuals, but the other is convex with the valve seat recessed way inside.
Has anyone seen one like the painted convex unit? It is unlike the other and unlike the ones shown in parts manuals. They both fit into the Dursley engine, but I will bet only one will work.

Any ideas/ input will be appreciated.
Cheers,
Hugh







28
Original Lister Cs Engines / Main bearing removal
« on: August 15, 2014, 11:23:21 PM »
Anyone have any good tips on remove/replace the original sleeve type main bearings on a 6/1?
I foolishly thought that if I removed the aligning screw on the housing top, the bearing would be a light drive removal.......not so.
A few hours of careful and arduous cutting got one of the bearings out, and i am not looking forward to the removal of the other one.
There's gotta be an easier way!
And replacing?
BTW, the oil thrower rings were staked onto the crank and were also a PITA to remove without damaging them too much.
Thanks for any advice.
Cheers,
Hugh

29
Listeroid Engines / 3 Utterpower/Metro 6/1s on Ebay
« on: August 11, 2014, 11:58:19 PM »


Three......count 'em, three unused Metros on Ebay......in U.S.A.
Lots of spares and upgrades.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/superheterodyne/m.html?item=111430319086&hash=item19f1c3bbee&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

30
Listeroid Engines / plugged fuel line
« on: June 28, 2014, 10:18:45 PM »

Wound the JKSON/PMG up today to use some shop tools. Started, but would not run more than a minute. Cranking, could hear the injector creak, it would start, not run.
Bled fuel lines, same problem. Making a long one short, the original braided, banjo-ended flex line from the fuel filter to injector pump was clogged. I wondered how that could be, as the fuel is well filtered. Found the rubber liner was soft and swollen, allowing just enough fuel through for the injector to creak on start-up, but not sufficient fuel for the engine to run.
I have about 425 hours on the engine in an off-grid situation. Most hours logged in in winter. Always have used regular diesel fuel, no bio. A bit of old power saw  and weed whacker gas gets mixed into the fuel once in a while. Seems odd that it took so long for the fuel line to deteriorate.
Had a bit of 1/4" fuel line and made up a replacement, all good now. The problem was most likely slowly developing over time, but presented itself only today. I was running yesterday to pump water, ran well then.
Glad the problem was a plugged line rather than a ruptured and leaking one.
Cheers,
Hugh

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