So, at the conclusion of the previous thread (Spun the rod bearing) I replied to keith71 with my repair update.
Without going into detail again, after about 8 hours of run-in over a few days, a loud knock suddenly appeared.
My first thought was "check the keys" They seemed OK, I spent a lot of time fitting new ones and they fit pretty well.
Pulled keys out and did a fitting check with a sharpie, nice contact along the tops of both keys.
One flywheel has a wider keyway, about .012" wider than the Gib, although the Gib fits nicely into the crank keyway. I shimmed the side of the wheel keyway on installation of the key, good fit, as far as I can tell.
I then pulled the bottom end to check the rod bearing again. Clearance was less than .003",  re torqued. Everything rotated smoothly and felt good.
Restart ..........no joy. Same loud knocking sound. If fuel is cut, the knock disappears. I would think that the problem is an improperly fitted key, but maybe not, as I have fitted them as well as I am able, and I'm sure the fitting is better than I did 12 years ago.
Maybe timing? I don't know if this would cause the problem.  The flywheel timing mark shows the correct position relative to the "creak" I did not change anything there from before the original sand damage.
Any ideas? I am out.
Assume I know nothing........that's how I am feeling this afternoon!
Cheers
Hugh

A short while back, another member mentioned cleaning out carbon from their exhaust system. I had not done this for 11 years, so decided to give it a go.

Our exhaust system is a baffled underground chamber constructed of concrete blocks in a way that allows the engine exhaust to follow a convoluted maze before exiting via a 4" PVC stack. It does a pretty good job of silencing the exhaust note. The 6/1 is located in an open shed, so there is still the mechanical noise to be heard.

On removing the 2" steel pipe from the cylinder head , I noted no carbon build-up at that end. The total pipe length before entering the Pit is about 8 feet. Inspection of the pit entry end also showed no carbon build-up. I  snaked a brush through the pipe and came up with very little soot build up.

On to the Pit of Doom then......shovelled off the foot or so of soil on top and opened the concrete lids of the chamber. It was another story in there. Some of the passageways (roughly 8" wide by 16" high) were nearly clogged with carbon powder. I dug it all out and put it into some empty hog feed bags (they're quite sturdy) In the end I scooped out around 50 pounds of carbon powder! Amazing at how much got trapped in there! There must be a good use for that stuff, but I could not think of any that would be wife approved, so it went to the local dump.

The actual block structure was completely intact, so after the cleaning, it was easily all buttoned up and recovered with soil. Ready for another 3000+ hours. A messy but necessary job, it was easily completed in a couple of hours.........about the same amount of time that it took to clean up the tools and myself!

I am now wondering what happens to all the soot that might go into a standard type of muffler. Does it burn out due to heat? Does it just get blown out into the air? Does it also collect in the muffler, and how do es one remove it?

At any rate, good to go for another while.

Cheers
Hugh

Our Listeroid was reluctant to start for the last several days. No surprise really, the temps were at -18*C  , and she lives outside. The starting battery is a 10 year old discarded car battery and that didn't help either, she would turn over, but too slowly to fire up, even with the help of a propane torch heating up the intake for a couple of minutes. The solution was  to heat the intake, turn on the electric start and then use the hand crank.......with that combination, she took off like a rocket,
This afternoon, it is a sweltering -2* so normal starting procedures were sufficient to do the deed.
This has been the coldest spell we've seen here since putting this engine into service some 10 plus years ago, and this is was far too cold for us.
The woodshed has been visited far too often. I wince when thinking of all the effort in gathering firewood, so am a bit of a miser in using it up.....though it is our only heat source.
More snow in the forecast and it is not yet the new year. Might eventually have to break into next year's wood supply.
Happy New Year!
Cheers
Hugh

Ever so often, the topic of porting comes up. For what it's worth, I tried an experiment today.
This morning was a clean-up day for our daily driver listeroid. Mostly a going over with a rag to clean off all the oil that seems to coat everything after a time. In this case, the generator drive belt was slipping a bit with a combination of a film of oil on the flywheel and moisture from condensation ( it has been raining/fogging here for almost ever).
After completion of cleaning and then starting up, I thought a good time to spray a litre or so of water into the intake under load. After removing the intake silencer (Solberg air compressor  intake filter) I used a garden sprayer to apply just sufficient  water so that RPM didn't bog down. Sometimes a bit too much water caused an RPM drop, which led me to wonder just how much intake air flow obstruction would affect RPM. At the time the engine (with about 2300 hours on it) was fully warmed up and pulling a 2800 Watt load.
With a flat piece of sheetmetal, I gradually covered the intake adapter until there was an audible decrease in RPM or a visual indication of the fuelling rack opening more.  I was able to cover the intake just a bit more than 50% before there was any change at all.
This experience seems to indicate that improving the intake airflow by cleaning up the port makes little or no change in power output.
Interesting........
Cheers
Hugh

Somebody must know!
It is time to replace/re-purpose  some of my much used metal files. I've found lots of cheap imitations of real tools, but can't seem to find a source for good ones.
 I have seen some brand recommendations on the web but the next problem is......
Finding a dealer! Seems there are a few good brands ones out there, but nobody appears to sell them in Canada or USA.
Any recommendations of brand or dealer would be appreciated.
Cheers
Hugh

A nice looking single  on ebay uk
Anyone know what model?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Stationary-Lister-Diesel-Engine/273255239183?epid=7017335817&hash=item3f9f480e0f:g:xS4AAOSwc~5bEuvD

cheers,
Hugh

I am not happy with the amount of oil that migrates through the felt seals on my Dursley as compared to the listeroid.
In previously replacing the bearings and felt seals, I noted the sealing areas on the crankshaft are nicely smooth, not scored or pitted. Carriers were also in good, clean condition.  In replacing the felts, the new ones were put  dry into the bearing carriers, then slid on to the crank. It was a bit of a PITA, as I recall, to slide the carriers past the crank ends once the felt seal was reached.
Is there an "approved" way to do this replacement? Any one have positive repeatable experience here? I am about to move the engine into its working location, so would like to make it as oil tight (a relative term. I know!) as practical before putting it into regular service.
Personal experience, tips,  and advice gratefully sought.
Thanks everyone
Cheers,
Hugh

Looks like Lister historian and creator of Stationary Engine magazine has entered the great beyond.
This morning received an email from George Breckenridge blog. Here's a link that tells the story:

http://www.utterpower.com/david-edgington-r-i-p/

Cheers to you life, David
Hugh