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Messages - Blue

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1
Engines / Re: Jabsco water pump
« on: December 01, 2017, 01:33:03 PM »
Only pain with them is stripping the cooler to remove all the bits of broken impeller after it breaks up. >:(

Blue

2
JP4 for sure. Not all had the lower decompression buttons and levers. Don't need them, you have levers on the valve covers. I had a two cylinder the same as that.

Blue

3
Listeroid Engines / Re: Old Lister still working and earning a living
« on: February 16, 2017, 04:19:58 PM »
Sweet, just over 500 rpm but is it a Lister? I see the post is under Listeroids ????

4
Things I want to Buy / Re: Looking to buy CS 5-1 or 6-1
« on: January 23, 2017, 06:44:05 PM »
One on ebay today 250 quid starting price. Nice heavy generator flywheels.

5
Engines / Re: Lister SR2 air compressor?
« on: August 24, 2016, 06:35:42 PM »
These were essential on any vessel that had air start generators and main engines because if the main air tanks leaked while the vessel was in port with no machinery running it would be impossible to put into service. So first the Lister was started and air put into the main air tanks until a generator could be started to put power on the switch board and run the electrically driven compressor which was larger to fill the air tanks. Then the main engine could be started. The ones I worked with could pump to 300 psi as that was what the main engine required to start but it was a long haul and we used to start the generator on a lot less to speed up the operation. I was on a North sea trawler that had this system along with 220 vdc power !!! Not something to mess about with.

6
Petteroids / Re: Petter M
« on: July 02, 2016, 02:43:50 AM »
Never did hear back from Internal Fire (ho hum) but job completed now and returned to it's keeper looking and running rather better than when it came to me. That needle is very sensitive, it only takes a fraction of an inch to go from backfiring to four stoking.

7
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 12- 2
« on: July 01, 2016, 04:16:45 PM »
Have offered the guy US$ 600 (about 14 million pounds at todays rate  ;D) which he has agreed to but is still unable to locate the pumps and injectors so that may have to change. Re dating, I thought these only started production in 1961 ? Nothing about spec on the plate, only the number, horsepower and revs.

8
Original Lister Cs Engines / 12- 2
« on: June 29, 2016, 07:11:37 PM »
Just located a 12 - 2 number 5831229. 12 hp @ 650 rpm. Waiting for the guy to get back to me regarding a price  :-\. Anyone know how to date these beasts? The chap had it belt driving a crusher plant but retired it when he upsized to a larger plant. He did cover under the rocker covers with grease and remove the pumps and injectors with the intention of overhauling them but as he had no further use for the engine shelved that plan. Hopefully he can relocate them. We did find one pepper pot for the exhaust and the starting handle on a quick scout through the shed and he is sure he has all the bits for it somewhere close by. Even a gasket set as well. We shall see.

9
Things I want to Buy / Re: Leather seal
« on: March 20, 2016, 09:28:39 AM »
That sounds like my only hope. Do you know what size they are offhand? I am going to use an o ring if no other option presents itself.

10
Things I want to Buy / Leather seal
« on: March 18, 2016, 06:02:51 PM »
Anyone know if 1. Leather seals are still available to buy or 2, what the hell one uses as an alternative? Got one missing, deteriorated and broken in a Petter M crankcase. Blue

11
Petteroids / Re: Petter M
« on: March 12, 2016, 10:57:01 AM »
Have signed up to internal fire but have to wait for approval before I can post anything. Thanks for that. My Petter M small end bush is phosphor bronze so has a modicum of natural lubrication and has a cup built into the connecting rod to catch any flying oil. All seems a bit hit and miss but I suppose it must have provided sufficient oil to keep it going. New bush currently being made. The gudgeon pin showed some signs of damage but only to the lower surface. It is held in place by a locating bolt so can't rotate and I was a bit confused by the marks but decided to leave well alone as the upper working surface is just about perfect. There is a sump drain plug so I guess all those drops of oil from the 'Calibrater' (every 5 seconds) that lub the big end collect in the bottom eventually and need removing occasionally. Hopefully I will soon be O.K.'d to access Internal Fire to see if I can pick their brains too. Many thanks.
Blue 

12
Petteroids / Re: Petter M
« on: March 10, 2016, 05:06:33 PM »
Thanks for the replies. I have sent a query to rattlenackers. I am amazed that there are not more folks out there as I read somewhere " The Petter M is one of the most collected engines in the UK" Hmmm. I am making new gaskets today ready for when I do find out what those crankcase seals are made of and can start rebuilding. Also have to drill out a stop stud on the carb that has broken off. All in all it is very well preserved and the quality of parts, even nuts is evident. Nuts are heavy and finished on one side only leaving the full face to carry the load on the other. Some places are still shiny as they were when fitted in the 1930's. Impressive. Thanks again for the replies any and all information received is useful. I am off up to the UK later this month so can pick up any parts I may find necessary.

All the best, Blue

13
Petteroids / Re: Petter M
« on: March 10, 2016, 02:41:27 AM »
O.K. Got it all stripped down now. The mains are grease lubricated via nipples but the big end is oil lubricated from a calibrator unit. Unfortunately that system has not been working too well and the small end has about 1mm play in it. The big end bearings are loose in the rod and I will have to put shims in to get the clearance right. One grease seal has broken and allowed grease into the crankcase which then combined with some carbon and blocked the oilway to the big end. Does anyone know if these seals are available? I have been trying with a bit of 1/4" shaft packing with no success but would really like to replace all four of them having now seen what can happen when they allow grease to pass. They are 1/4" square material and run against the crankshaft whilst sitting in a pocket on the side cover, the inner seals are 1 5/8" inside diameter, 2 1/8" O.D. and the outer seals 1 1/4" I.D. & 1 3/4" O.D. What are the originals made of, leather? Any help would be appreciated.

14
Petteroids / Petter M
« on: February 25, 2016, 03:17:44 PM »
Hello, a friend has given me a Petter M to play with and overhaul. It has been sitting unused for a while so things like rust in the fuel base, stuck fuel foot valve, broken spring on the fuel return plunger but nothing major found yet. It has a lubricator reservoir driven by the rear end of the magneto with a single pipe heading off to the mains (I assume) but there are grease nipples on the casing too  :-\. It is 1.5 bhp @ 750 rpm. What colour should it be ? I see traces of a very pale green. The big end seems to have a might too much play on it. Still has compression although it feels weak but that may be because I am used to my Lister diesel.

15
What I used to do was close the shut off valve until all the fluctuations at the gauge had stopped and leave it like that. That way it was always registering even if it took a couple of seconds to come up after starting. Good luck.

Blue

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