Hey, Veggie. If you have an android phone or google translate you can use your camera. If you open your camera app and hit the google lens icon there is an option for translate.

I tried several different languages from auto to chinese simplified versus traditional and got the following results. Some of the characters were not readable as they a pretty faint in the pics but you may have better luck directly on the flywheel. Maybe some sharpie contrast would help as well.

In picture #2 which are the markings you have labeled (1) the first character to the outside of the flywheel is unreadable. The middle character is "gas" and the right hand character is "close". When I could get them to focus together it translates to "gas off". It also translated to "please shut up" which I didn't find helpful.

In picture #3 which you have labeled (2) the first character is unreadable and the middle character does not come up in translate. The right hand character is "point". When I could get the middle and right characters to focus together it translates to "on time".

In picture #4 which you have labeled (3) the top line of symbols the left character does not come up in translate but the right character is "oil". When I could get both to focus it came up as "oil supply". It also translated to "get angry", which I was starting to. On the bottom set of characters, the left character was unreadable. The middle character is "air" and the right character is "open". When focused together it translates to "intake open".

So, my guess would be (1) is exhaust valve closed, (2) is top dead center, (3) top row is injection point or maybe combustion point, and (3) bottom is intake valve open.

Lemme know how it goes.

There shouldn't be any variance from year to year, The only thing that would be different is that Lister tended to use different springs and weights on the cam/governor depending on RPM, otherwise everything else should be consistent.

Having sat I would likely make sure the fuel pump and injector have not clogged or stuck. Otherwise just oil, filter changes, and maybe clean out the crankcase if it needs it. Also, see if it needs to be decoked which would require a couple of gaskets.

I don't know of any common issues with the HR series.

As far as parts to keep on hand, I would keep a couple of gasket sets, fuel pump and injector rebuild parts, and filters. One could go down the rabbit hole with bearings and bushings but would have to disassemble some of the engine to check if everyhting is still standard or weather the engine has had any reman work.

Where are you located? In Australia/NZ Oldtimerengines has a good selection of parts. In the UK stationaryengineparts has the same. There are a couple of places in the US as well.

Let us know how it goes, always fun to see another one brought back to life.

Looks to be an HR2. My guess would be in the 12-15kw range.

If it runs and generates I would say $600 is a great deal.

Butch,

Not sure if you know of these guys but they are in Northern Kansas and have very high quality tapered gib keys as well as tapered pins, most all of them made in house, as well as all kinds of key stock and other hardware. I found them after several very dissapointing dealings with Indian pins and keys. I think there was something like a $25 minimum order. The keys do come perfectly on size for width but full thickness depth wise and have to be fit but are made of much higher quality material than the Indian keys I have had my hands on.

https://www.huyett.com/all-products/machine-key-stock-machine-keys-shafts/machine-keys/gib-head-machine-keys

I'm guessing you are in the US or Canada based on the Craftsman wrench. Grainger(expensive), Zoro, Motion Industries, or any of the like industrial suppliers. If you can figure out which bushing part number you need you can try Ebay as well. Lots of new old stock and surplus parts there for dirt cheap.

Having taken a closer look at your pictures this morning there is no way you are going to be able to use the jacking bolts to push the pulley off of the taper lock bushing, not enough room. One thing you dont want to do is push against the generator body. Taper locks will not budge. I think it is time for the cut off wheel and split the pulley.

One other posibility is to try using a wide chisel as a wedge between the pulley and the bushing to try to separate them. Working back and forth side to side. If you can get the pulley to budge a little it may go ahead and come off.

Would you mind sharing where you found a new gear? I have a crank with a damaged gear and never could find a new one.