fab,
 I would have thought the same thing if it were not for all the reading I have done here. I don't think tanking it would have got all the sand out. There were places where the sand was mixed with "casting flash" 1/2" thick as well as pockets that had metal over sand pockets.

I would much rather have spent the time doing something else but I'm glad I did what I did.

32

I thought you guys might like a change of pace...........

After several hours with paint stripper, pressure washer, needle scaler and die grinder I finally got some paint on "the beast".
In the first pic I'm about 1/2 done...

The last picture shows about 10% of the sand inside the case. For those of you who have never done this before I can tell you exactly where the sand is........where you did not look !!!





32 coupe

Amec ZS 1115 (changfa clone) with a 15 KW ST. style head. These were purchased a few years ago and not setup or used. Includes coupler and several other parts. Located in Florida. call 321-626-5387  8 am. to 6 pm. during the week

I was thinking of Horsepoor's idea of another hole located above the camshaft on the block behind the cover.....I even thought of a 3/8" hole with a brass plug IN THE COVER so I could pull the plug and oil this area from time to time.....the  "reed in the wind" idea I've never seen but have to admit it's a neat idea

32 coupe

I am leaning to fabricators idea as this is what I thought when I first saw what a stupid mistake I'd made............


It's plain to see where I ended with first driil and should have stopped there.



Here we can see where the engine was hammering the extra .020 of endplay.



Think there is enough area for the bearing ? Look at the scuff in the corner and the wear on the bearing area.



The gov. end bearing looks like it has not been touched





I don't understand how the no. 2 cyl. injector pump cam and lobe are getting oil ??  What am I missing ? ( other than the obvious !!)


32 coupe

Well after waaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much work, sweat and swearing I am where I am.

I fabbed up Quinns tool idea and after about 3 turns on the lead screws the head of the key POPPED right off.

OK,  lets try this again....I fabbed the drill guide, also Quinns idea, and drilled the 1/8" with no problem. After drilling the 5/16" I could see that I had just a little metal left over so I made a longer and larger drill bit...11/32" and went ahead....I kept seeing metal at the bottom of the hole so I kept drilling....stupid me....The flywheel was almost against the case so I could not see or get anything between them (both sides were like this)... after drilling, trapping and cussing some more I welded a threaded rod to what was left of the key and put my slide hammer on that....Half the key came out after about 12 or 15 good hard wacks.....The other half came out after much tapping and prying and pulling.......so here we are.....

The damage on the crank I do not consider to be a super big deal, but maybe it is Worst case would be to send it out and have it welded and ground or I'm thinking a dab of JB weld and little file and paper work. The damage is just into the seal area.....perhaps a sleeve and different seal......Maybe turn the seal the other direction and to the good area.....My options are not limited I don't think.

What do you guys think ?

Thanks for all the help from everyone !!!

32 coupe

Hey all,
You guys always have great ideas.

My puller is made from 1/2" steel so I don't think it is bending or is weak. The bolts are 7/16" hardened cap screws and I did have washers behind them against the flywheel. I guess after the first one went pretty good I just got in a hurry and made this mistake.

I like Quinnf's idea of the "wedge" as well as his puller.

I will probibly go with Quinnf's ideas but at this point I'm in no hurry and will probibly think about it for a couple of days before I attack it again.

32 coupe