After considering the options and my tools and skills I decided to use the offset bushing idea. A couple of hours at the old Atlas lathe and I have about a .045 offset which is pretty close for my needs. Thought you guys might like to take a look.

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I thought you guys might like a change of pace...........

After several hours with paint stripper, pressure washer, needle scaler and die grinder I finally got some paint on "the beast".
In the first pic I'm about 1/2 done...

The last picture shows about 10% of the sand inside the case. For those of you who have never done this before I can tell you exactly where the sand is........where you did not look !!!





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Well after waaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much work, sweat and swearing I am where I am.

I fabbed up Quinns tool idea and after about 3 turns on the lead screws the head of the key POPPED right off.

OK,  lets try this again....I fabbed the drill guide, also Quinns idea, and drilled the 1/8" with no problem. After drilling the 5/16" I could see that I had just a little metal left over so I made a longer and larger drill bit...11/32" and went ahead....I kept seeing metal at the bottom of the hole so I kept drilling....stupid me....The flywheel was almost against the case so I could not see or get anything between them (both sides were like this)... after drilling, trapping and cussing some more I welded a threaded rod to what was left of the key and put my slide hammer on that....Half the key came out after about 12 or 15 good hard wacks.....The other half came out after much tapping and prying and pulling.......so here we are.....

The damage on the crank I do not consider to be a super big deal, but maybe it is Worst case would be to send it out and have it welded and ground or I'm thinking a dab of JB weld and little file and paper work. The damage is just into the seal area.....perhaps a sleeve and different seal......Maybe turn the seal the other direction and to the good area.....My options are not limited I don't think.

What do you guys think ?

Thanks for all the help from everyone !!!

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I made a gib key puller and don't seem to be getting anywhere. No problems with the look of the keyway.....it has been soaking in "aero kroil" for a week. I have applied what I think is a lot of pressure or torque to the bolts but no movement yet.
I "squared up" the face of the key with a cutoff wheel so it is straight with the face of the puller.

Any ideas ?

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Well I got the Ashwamegh home yesterday. Turns out to be a 25/2 instead of the 20/2 I thought it was. Its early because the ser. no. is 8, thats right number 8 ! (that could be good or bad) dated 2004
I pulled the inspection door to find bolted on counter weights on the crank. I don't know why that was such a surprise because I remember reading Georges post years ago about when he first started importing them and had a complete rebuild with pics. (I went back and looked at it again just to be sure)

The guy I got it from had another one that he just now got around to playing with and it blew the idler gear after 4 hours running. This morning I got on the horn and ordered the brass idler. I don't trust anything about this engine so I think a rebuild is in order before anything else. I will turn my own off-set bolt for the new gear.

At this point I am trying to figure out how to get to the idler gear out with out removeing the counter weights from the crank. This thing sure is tight inside !

Anyone have a copy of the owers manuall ?? I did get the "high end" tool box and screw driver though !!

I will be busy with other things for the next 10 days or so but when I get back to it I will post pics then.

Any help or info would be appreciated.

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Hey all,

My Metro 6/1 manual states the oil capacity is 4.5 pints. When I fill to that level the oil just touches the bottom of the dipstick. ( about 1/2" showing on the "dipper" )
I have run the engine for many hours at this level with no problems and a look at the "gear train" ( looking through the inspection door )after setting for a few days oil is still dripping from it.

I watched several vids that show that oil level should almost touch the bottom of the rod bolts. ??  I added 3 more pints of oil and it still does not show "full on the dipstick and about 1/2" from the bottom of the rod bolts.

What do you guys think ?

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We have all seen this before but I thought I would share how I did mine.

I took a piece of 3" round  al. stock, cut a 1"  section then faced both sides on my old lathe. After drilling a hole in it I took the rest of the material out with my homemade boreing bar to fit the intake pipe. A little Loc Tite, install air filter and tighten clamp and presto ---Hot Rod air cleaner !

Think I'll get the 5 to 10 horsepower increase they advertise LOL

32 coupe

After years of reading this site in '08 I purchased a Metro 6/1 and after may mods and about 200 hours of "play time" today I "ran some numbers" and would like to share:

3500 watt load in 1 hr. I used 42 oz. diesel fuel
1630 watt load in 1 hr. I used 25 oz. diesel fuel
1000 watt load in 1 hr I used  21 oz. diesel fuel

I guessed the ST 7.5 head used about 1 HP just to turn it. (some of you guys will know the correct number on this I'm sure ) so at 3500 watts plus my guessed 750 for the head  at 4200 watts the engine is "working" pretty good.

My question is it seems like it is using alot of fuel per hour......does not smoke or belch fuel, it starts and  "runs like a champ".

I have not checked the timing because it runs so good untill now I thought everything was fine. Should I "spill time" it or does it sound like the idler gear could be off ?

Thanks for years of advise. I hope to put up some pics soon.

32 coupe