I clicked on the youtube user and looked at his profile - he claims to be in South Africa, which would explain a lot.

Take it apart - if your loader will lift one end, then it should lift the pieces.  Pull the generator and engine off the base, then move the base first.  Get the base in place and all leveled up, etc.  Then move the engine and then the generator.  Re-assemble, add new oil, and your done.

I'm not so sure about middle of nowhere, there appears to be both power and phone lines in the video.

As for the last oil change, it looks to have been recently judging from the pool of black crud on the ground.

I do love that thump thump sound however, one of the best I've heard in my headphones.

A late friend of mine said "People around Dallas drive as if stupidity was a virtue."

We have all the same stuff here, except it is much worse in or near the big cities.

I'm thinking about a similar situation for my next place.

You can also use foam insulation just below the surface of the earth to insulate the ground so it doesn't freeze.  It has to extend several feet out from the building.

My thinking is to build the building out of stuff that won't burn.  I worry about the contents (generator, fuel, batteries, inverter) being fire hazards, and don't want the house to burn down if things go terribly wrong.  For me that means a steel structure with steel siding and roof.  In addition, I plan to put the power shed about 50 feet from the house, but then I'll have the room to do so.  If you must build it out of wood, at least line the inside with sheetrock.

In my case, my next place is 20 minutes from the fire department.  It'll be good to know that when seconds count, help is only an hour away!

My only other suggestion is to make it bigger than you think you need.  Five feet wide sounds a little cramped to me.

Yes, that's what I had in mind.  As BruceM points out, it probably won't help but it's worth a shot.  Disconnect the caps from the AC line and connect them to the output of the diodes that goes to the brushes, one wire to each side of the cap.  Leave the diode connected to the brushes as it is now; the cap(s) will be in parallel with the brushes.

Capacitors are energy storage devices; they store energy in an electric field by accumulating electric charges on either side of an insulator.  When the voltage outside is higher than what is in the cap, current flows into the cap, "charging" the capacitor up.  When the voltage outside is low, current flows out of the cap.  Thus the capacitor tends to shorten the hills and fill in the valleys on a voltage waveform.  In other words, capacitors tend to smooth out changes in voltage.

Location?  Shipping to Texas? (probably more than the cost of the engine).

Here's a link I found with some information:

http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/ListerData/spec.htm

Scroll down to JP3 for 4 pages of information.

Figure 2 on page 9 of the PDF shows 120V AC applied to terminals on the back of the control unit, which I believe mounts on the back of the meter.  I think the control unit is the black object in the box just below the meter in your photo.  Figure 12 on page 15 shows an internal schematic with a transformer, rectifiers, etc. to power the relay coils.