After scouring the Web regarding light flicker with generators, I can see that this is a VERY common issue.
As BruceM noted, the majority of these issues are from using LED lights which are very sensitive to tiny changes in supply frequency.
Regarding engine speed and the number of cylinders, I did not seem to matter.
I found many articles where 3600 rpm screamers were still causing lights to flicker. But again, most cases were when the user had LED bulbs installed.
In other examples, 2 and 3 cylinder Kubota's were involved in flickering lights.
So, before you go changing voltage regulators, generator heads, and engine speeds, first try swapping out LED's for standard incandescent bulbs.

Question:
What about appliances such as modern gas furnaces with low voltage DC control boards, or Televisions and Computers?
Are most of these appliances immune to high frequency fluctuations in Hz because they rectify to DC and their DC voltage regulators can smooth out the ripple ?

Note: What I mean by high frequency fluctuations in Hz is the frequency bouncing between say 58hz and 61hz  5 times per second due to 650 rpm Lister power strokes.
          Perhaps enough to mess up an LED, but does it matter to appliances with DC control boards?



 

38ac,

a few questions please...

Any flickering lights from the ST head?

What speed are you running the engine at?

Can you run internet and television direct from an ST head?

THIS UNIT IS STILL AVAILABLE

That's interesting Bruce.
There certainly is a simplicity and elegance to DC home grid systems.
In the book I noted above, the author runs many appliances (laptop, lighting, etc) on 120 VDC without modifications. No inverter.
Many of today's appliance power adapters and chargers can rectify AC and/or handle 100 to 250 volts DC. Of course one must investigate the appliance before plugging in, to be sure that the power adapter does not use a transformer.
For the food freezers and such he uses cheap small dedicated square wave inverters at each location.
After years of use, no issues

In his book "Take back the power", the author puts forth a case for switching to a full DC grid.
Partly as a solution for to coming social issues and energy scarcity, but also as a solution for off-grid and personal grids.
One interesting project he describes (along with circuit diagrams for self-builders) is a unit which takes direct PV power and converts it to high frequency pulsed DC.
When DC is pulsed at frequencies above 120 hz, the sparking at contact points is virtually eliminated. (Less than AC at 60 hz).
He points out that this allows the direct connection of PV panels to a water tank heating element while keeping the original water tank temperature switches in the circuit.
He wires his panels in series to get ~120 volts, then passes the power through his PWM DC unit, then on to the hot water heater. (120 volt heating element)

 Given the current conditions regarding world energy, the Alternative Fuels section may become a bit busier soon.
So I suggest wee keep it 

Is that Chinese symbols of the valve cover ?
See if you can scrub away the rust.

Interesting Bruce,

$1000 for a 100 AMP 24 volt LFP ( or $2000 for 200 amps comparable to my current setup)

To replace my four 225 amp lead acid deep cycles, the total cost would be $800.

A huge price difference for 200 amp batteries.

Granted, a proper analysis would also include expected cycles over the life of both packs.

veggie