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Messages - veggie

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61
Thank you 38ac,
It looks like the only thing I can alter in that list is the pop pressure.
I can loosen the injector spring tension screw by 1/4 turn at a time to see if that makes any difference.

38ac: "Cam timing and lobe placement is such that the adjustment  bolt must be set extremely high thus the element isn't dropping low enough at low delivery."

Is this something I can adjust/control ? If so, how does one set this?

62
Hi All,

Is anyone familiar with the internals of the Injector Pump and whether modifications can be made to the minimum flow point?

I have a project where I would like the engine to run continuous at 250 rpm.
The problem is that when the speed is set any lower than 325 rpm, it cuts out !!!
The governor linkage is quite free and I have tried several springs ranging from stiff to very soft.
Even using my hand on the rack plunger I can control the speed closely down to 325 rpm and the engine stops at any point below that.

I prepared a video to demonstrate.
You will note that as the engine speed hits the current setting (325 rpm) it cuts out, then as it slows below the set point the governor gives a small tug and the engine fires with a thump to bring it back to 325. Then the injector pump stops fuel flow and the same cycle repeats. You will hear a thump every several revolutions as the engine fires and then cuts out to coast again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8ZdIOONaOU

I have seen many engines running at very low speeds. So I know it's possible.
Such as this one...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jTxVD5Vaas

Any ideas for modifications ???

63
Waste Motor Oil / Re: My new "Roger Sanders" style waste oil burner
« on: April 25, 2021, 05:22:54 PM »
WOW !   You did a really nice job on that most recent iteration of your design.
Your documentation is very helpful to those of us who are considering a build.
thanks for posting that

I'm very curious as to how it would work on waste veggie oil  ::)

cheers,
veggie

64
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister Muffler Project
« on: April 15, 2021, 03:58:44 PM »
Veggie, did you MIG weld or braze those 2 inch exhaust pipe joints to the tanks?
Your simple side entry method seems highly effective, and the use of air tanks avoids the safety "pucker factor" of welding old propane tanks.  Bravo!

BruceM
Yes, holes were cut in the ends and the sides of the tanks then Weld-On thread couplings were MIG welded in place.
The weld-on threaded "bung" fittings can be sourced at "Princess auto" in Canada and Harbor Freight in the USA (See picture).
There are several variations of threaded bung but they all work.
 - 2" to joint the two tanks
 - 1.5" for the inlet and discharge (However, 2" may have been better for reducing back pressure)
Then a short threaded pipe nipple was used to screw the two tanks together. It can all be dismantled if necessary.

Cheers

65
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister Muffler Project
« on: April 14, 2021, 04:21:15 PM »

dkmc,
No baffles, just two 5 gallon air compressor tanks connect by a 2 inch pipe.
Inlet and outlet are connected to the sides of the tanks so that the noise pulses must bounce off the opposite curved wall and get all messed up.

66
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister Muffler Project
« on: April 13, 2021, 06:06:24 PM »

38ac, BruceM

Thanks kindly for the complements!

A lot of trials (and failures) before this system.
One muffler
Two mufflers
Two mufflers and a long pipe
Two mufflers and a drum
All of them gave a deep WUMP...WUMP...WUMP low frequency sound that could be heard 100 ft away.

The dual expansion chamber seems to be a good way to cut the pulses

67
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister Muffler Project
« on: April 12, 2021, 09:35:35 PM »
 *** UPDATE ***

    SILENT RUNNING

The muffler was installed in my Listeroid system and a 4" ABS vertical stack was added to take the gases high and away from the yard.
A rain cap was fabricated at the top to protect four 1" holes drilled around the circumference of the pipe.
Success !   ;D
Here is a video of the result where I am standing 15 ft from the muffler.
(If you turn up the volume you can just here the exhaust)
https://youtu.be/75ffy41BcRY

veggie

68
Everything else / Re: Generator Enclosures
« on: April 12, 2021, 02:30:45 PM »

All good points,

Thanks BruceM

69
Everything else / Re: Generator Enclosures
« on: April 10, 2021, 04:31:00 PM »

Coolant heat is routed externally via insulated PEX tubing to a remote mounted radiator
The majority of the heat generated in the enclosure will come from the surface of the engine and the windings of the generator head.

70
Everything else / Generator Enclosures
« on: April 10, 2021, 04:29:40 PM »
Has anyone enclosed a diesel generator for noise attenuation ?
I intend to surround my R175 Changfa with an close fitting insulated enclosure to really silence the system along with the new "dual tank" muffler.
My fear is that the generator head will overheat. It's a 4KW head which will be loaded to 1.5kw continuous.
If I run a cooling duct to the inlet of the generator fan it would create a massive channel for noise to escape.
How did you get around this issue?

Or ... maybe it's not an issue at all ?

veggie

71
Bio-diesel Fuel / Re: Expain to me why you bother to make bio diesel
« on: April 07, 2021, 09:47:25 PM »
Yes, for diesel vehicles (expensive engines and a major job to rebuild), the best biofuel is Biodiesel.
For stationary engines (especially IDI) WVO or WVO blend is very convenient.

72
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister Muffler Project
« on: April 05, 2021, 07:02:25 PM »
dax021,
Hey, no problem  ;)
A bigger concern for me was condensation.
Diesel combustion releases almost a quart of water as vapour for every quart of fuel burned.
With the muffler being located outdoors, there is a danger of water building up in the lower tank and then freezing whenever the engine turned off.
My solution was to drill a 1/2 hole at the bottom and weld on a threaded hub where I can screw in a ball valve.
During the winter I can crack open the valve and leave it open to drain any liquids.
We'll see if that works  ::)

veggie

73
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister Muffler Project
« on: April 04, 2021, 08:28:46 PM »
I see in the youtube vid that you have a flexible hose connecting the engine and muffler. Where did you source the hose?
I would imagine a long length of that would absorb much pulse energy as well.
Cheers
Hugh

Hugh,
It's called crush proof garage exhaust hose.
Very flexible and rated to high temperature (600f intermittent). Don't use it directly connected to the engine.
I suspect it could run at 300 f indefinitely.
Available in 2, 3, and 4". The one in the vid is a 2 inch.

Here is an example...
https://www.new-line.com/hose/automotive-truck-marine-hose/garage-exhaust-hose-crushproof-flarelok/flarelock-rubber-garage-exhaust

I got mine at Greenline Hose and Fittings.
There is a branch in Vancouver.

or, here is an Amazon example.
https://www.amazon.ca/Dayco-63520-Garage-Exhaust-Hose/dp/B001PY4Y8Y/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=crush+proof+exhaust+hose&qid=1617564415&sr=8-6

cheers,
veggie

74
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister Muffler Project
« on: April 04, 2021, 04:07:38 PM »
Will you bury the tanks or keep them above ground?
The tanks will stay above ground. I developed this muffler because I have no good location to bury one.

veggie

75
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister Muffler Project
« on: April 04, 2021, 04:06:31 PM »
Why don't you turn that outlet pipe to face downwards?  That way it won't fill your tank with rainwater.

As noted above, the outlet is positioned to accept a screw-on stack.
The vertical stack will extend up above my garage and will have a rain cap on top.
The stack will be 3" PVC pipe.

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