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Messages - veggie

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Waste Motor Oil / Re: 3/4" needle valve
« on: June 15, 2021, 03:18:30 PM »

For what you are doing (WMO feed regulation) it should be fine.
The only issue with needle valves for WMO is the tendency to clog due to the fine passages around the tip of the needle.
Stringy bits can cause a obstruction very quickly.
So ... make sure your oil is well filtered. Maybe down to 5 microns.


Listeroid Engines / New Listeroid Model
« on: June 14, 2021, 04:27:05 AM »

This new unit from Rajkot is slightly smaller than the current Listeroid 6/1


Waste Motor Oil / Re: My new "Roger Sanders" style waste oil burner
« on: May 09, 2021, 06:56:44 PM »

Very nice job tying it into the heating system.
Looks reliable and effective.
Well done !

Listeroid Engines / Re: Ran the beast today !
« on: May 09, 2021, 06:51:12 PM »
 I noticed the marks on the flywheel.
What timing setting do you use (Deg BTDC) on that beast?

Waste Motor Oil / Re: My new "Roger Sanders" style waste oil burner
« on: May 07, 2021, 06:47:02 PM »


You linked to your videos while you were logged into "studio.youtube" which is your private account.
We can't see the videos   :)



Something I can't test at the moment (Alternator not mounted yet), but perhaps the 8 stroking would disappear if there was a slight load ?
Causing the rack to supply enough fuel on every power stroke.  ???

Hmmmm !

Further update ...

Ok, I retarded the injector timing to 15 BTDC.

Starts and runs great.
Even behaves a bit better at low speed.
Ignition knock greatly reduced.

While the engine can run slower, it still has the "8 stoke" phenomenon that cujet noted.

Only when the engine runs at 325 rpm or greater does the 8-stroking go away.

Here is a video of the test run.... at 200 rpm  !

Waste Vegetable Oil / Lister CS type Engines and Vegetable Oil Fuel
« on: May 06, 2021, 06:28:31 PM »

For anyone interested in going down this road, here is a documented lab test with interesting recommendations.



The timing on my engine was approx. 18 Deg. BTDC
Today I advanced the timing to by 4 Degrees to 22 Deg BTDC.
This had no effect on the engine's ability to run slower, however there was a considerable increase in ignition knock.
A very undesirable result for me since I don't like the knock.  :(

The next adjustment will be to back off the timing to 15 Deg BTDC and run it again.
From the studies I have read, experiments can be performed anywhere between 10 deg and 27 deg with varying outcomes based on the service of the engine, rpm of the engine, and the type of fuel being used.

all in good fun  :)




I looked at your other lister videos. Very nice setup in that shed. (looks like a lister/petter unit off to the side also).
Would it be possible to post a picture of how you mounted the alternators to your engine?
I have a similar plan in mind.


38ac and starfire, you definitely achieved SLOW RUNNING.  ;)

I have a theory.
My engine is a 900 rpm 8HP unit.
Is it possible that the helix cut in the rack is machined for higher speed/HP sacrificing a few hundred rpm at low speed.?
(as compared to a 650 rpm helix)
I chose not to dismantle the injection pump. Rather I will check the spill timing and play with the injector pressure.



Thanks ! That was very helpful.
You seem to have achieved the same symptoms as me.
It could be that these engines simply don't run very well below 300 rpm.

My project of running 24/7 at very low rpm may still work at 350 rpm instead of 250 rpm. At 350 my engine runs steady without missing a beat.
The idea being that during a power failure, this engine will very quietly PUT...PUT along at low speed driving an alternator at 24 Volts / 15 Amps.
At times it will surely fall behind the demand, and at other times (through the night) it will exceed the demand.
The battery bank will buffer the power usage.
I did the math and based on my demand of furnace fan, some lights, refrigerator, and freezer, it should work fine.

Thanks for testing that.

Anyone else care to join in the Lister(oid) low speed test and report back ?   ;D

How Low Can You Go ?


Thanks for the suggestions gents.
I will dig into the IP components and see what's going on.


Thank you 38ac,
It looks like the only thing I can alter in that list is the pop pressure.
I can loosen the injector spring tension screw by 1/4 turn at a time to see if that makes any difference.

38ac: "Cam timing and lobe placement is such that the adjustment  bolt must be set extremely high thus the element isn't dropping low enough at low delivery."

Is this something I can adjust/control ? If so, how does one set this?

Hi All,

Is anyone familiar with the internals of the Injector Pump and whether modifications can be made to the minimum flow point?

I have a project where I would like the engine to run continuous at 250 rpm.
The problem is that when the speed is set any lower than 325 rpm, it cuts out !!!
The governor linkage is quite free and I have tried several springs ranging from stiff to very soft.
Even using my hand on the rack plunger I can control the speed closely down to 325 rpm and the engine stops at any point below that.

I prepared a video to demonstrate.
You will note that as the engine speed hits the current setting (325 rpm) it cuts out, then as it slows below the set point the governor gives a small tug and the engine fires with a thump to bring it back to 325. Then the injector pump stops fuel flow and the same cycle repeats. You will hear a thump every several revolutions as the engine fires and then cuts out to coast again.

I have seen many engines running at very low speeds. So I know it's possible.
Such as this one...

Any ideas for modifications ???

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