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Messages - Geno

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I don't need my glow plug above freezing but I've used it down to 0°f or lower and it fires up every time. Take your time cranking it up to speed and engage compression. Throttle the rack and let it get up to speed slowly. My glow plug sticks out too far into the pre comp chamber so after a few minutes I swap it for one thats cut off flush with the plug. Works every time on my engine.

Thanks, Geno

Yeah, It's pretty bad. 1.25 million homes with no electricity. State of emergency's all over the place. The northern edge of the ice was about 40 minutes south of me. I got 6-8" of heavy snow and a tiny bit of ice. It's still nothing like the big one 10 years ago that hit just north of me.  From what I've been told there are still 1000's of band aid repairs from the 98 storm which are still in place.

Thanks, Geno

General Discussion / Re: Getting hot water from the engine into the house
« on: November 30, 2008, 01:27:58 PM »
According to a calculator on the web 10 gallons of water will expand a maximum of .445 gallons when hot.

As far as your design is concerned I suggest an expansion tank/vent at the highest point. That's what I did. I also isolated the engine coolant loop from the heating loop that goes to the house. No problems with excess pressure on the engine. Less possibility of leaks that could cause the engine to overheat. I tapped into the the loop that goes to the house to dump excess heat in summer or put some heat in the garage in winter. I thought about it long and carefully and asked many questions before putting it together and spending the $. There is no automation so I do have to watch things a bit. My system has been working perfectly for a year now. I have so much hot water in the summer I waste it on things I never would have before. In the winter, after a couple hours to heat things up, I can keep a large cast iron rad in the living room hot and have enough domestic hot water to take a shower, do the dishes or a load of laundry.

Plumbing diagram one. Outside the house.

Plumbing diagram two. Inside the house.

Other pics at the bottom of my webpage

Thanks, Geno

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Rusty lump of metal
« on: November 30, 2008, 12:44:38 PM »
Just looked at the pics. Wow, was that engine stored under water? ;) I can see why you don’t want to put much money into it. I didn’t know about the Indian oil control ring fit issue. I may have the same problem on my original but then again I never measured end gap on the original ring so I might be able to reuse it.

Thanks, Geno

Lister Based Generators / Re: Nice Lister SOM webpage..............
« on: November 21, 2008, 11:10:19 PM »
They have some cool stuff. Check this one out.

Thanks, Geno

Listeroid Engines / test post
« on: November 20, 2008, 10:32:52 PM »
test post

Waste Vegetable Oil / Re: Preheating
« on: November 09, 2008, 11:13:03 AM »
At 170°f and 15% rug my wvo is still more viscous than ulsd. I’ve been hesitant to go with more rug because of engine longevity issues. In a heated tank there might be a safety issue if you checked it with a match. The temps and pressure in my hp line make boiling nearly impossible.

Thanks, Geno

Waste Vegetable Oil / Re: Preheating
« on: November 08, 2008, 11:14:41 PM »
My injector always reads around 200°f when things are warmed up and about 5-10°f more with heated hp line. (fwiw) I’ve read the wvo is not in the injector long enough to get it hot. I don’t know if that’s true. I took the safe road and added 100 watts of heat to the hp line. The injector nut where the hp line attaches reads about 215°f. I don’t know the answer but the injector is a decent size chunk of metal and it should heat the oil once things are warmed up. I have around 1900 hrs on 90/10 wvo/rug and I haven’t cleaned out the carbon for 300-400 hrs. There was minimal build up back then.

Thanks, Geno

Listeroid Engines / Re: 12/2 rebuild questions
« on: August 23, 2008, 11:38:43 AM »
I think crank end play is .005" or barely perceptible movement and no binding.
If you can get any plastigauge you can use it on several places on the big end bearing, one at a time and adjust to .002"

Thanks, Geno

Waste Vegetable Oil / Re: WVO processor update
« on: July 13, 2008, 11:34:09 AM »
I got so sick of bag filtering my WVO last winter I spent the $ for a Simple Centrifuge bowl a couple months ago. Gravity feed, runs unattended, 5-8 GPH. I settle the oil for 10-50 days and filter at 400 microns into 55 gallon drums where it settles again and then gets pumped into the hanging barrel. No water wash. The oil is between 120-150° F when it enters the CF. The motor and heaters use about 475 watts. The sludge I scrape out of the bowl is black and has the consistency of grease. I clean it every 25 gallons or so but could go a bit longer. Maybe I get good grease but I’ve never seen a drop of water in the bowl. About ½ the power to run it has come from the Listeroid but that will go up substantially now that the bugs have been worked out. I won’t be able to run it in the winter but I’ll make sure I have 200 gallons processed by first frost for the Listeroid.

I’ve made some improvements since these pics were taken but the basic setup is still the same.

2 more hours work and my 1985, 300D Benz will be running on WVO.

Centrifuging is fun
Bag filtering blows
Thanks, Geno

General Discussion / Re: Mercedes & Smart Diesel Models
« on: July 11, 2008, 07:40:43 PM »
It should be available soon as an 09 model. Even in states with Calif. emissions in effect, like NY. I've been to 2 VW dealerships recently here in NY and both had a deisel Jetta demo and are taking orders for more which *should* be soon.
Thanks, Gene

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Awful quiet in here!
« on: July 04, 2008, 11:52:52 AM »
The project on my original 6/1 is on hold. 1) My roid is running like a top. 2) I got an 1985 Benz 300d last January that I'm getting road ready and converted to WVO. I also put together a centrifuge based on the Simple Centrifuge bowl. I got so sick of bag filtering last winter I spent the $. It's so much easier now.

The original is completely apart. Most parts are servicable. Ring end gap is still within spec measured with new rings. Tiny lip on top of the cylinder. The crank was cut .020 under so I had the local Babbit guy check it out and pour me 2 sets as well as a set of mains.
I sure could use an original 6/1 cam. The lobes and bearing surfaces on mine are pitted badly. I'll put an Indian one in it if I have to.

Thanks, Geno

Generators / Re: 10K ST generator head
« on: July 02, 2008, 11:10:36 AM »
Good source for run capacitors.

I just bought 3 for testing.  A 1, 1.5, and a 2 mfd

The AC voltage shouldn't matter as long as its greater than your gen output.

Thanks, Geno

Listeroid Engines / Re: Check engine speed at very 1st start!
« on: June 30, 2008, 11:17:20 PM »
The list of things you didn't check and didn't do is long indeed. If the engine was anywhere near the speed you think everyone in the neighborhood was in danger. Loose gib keys too. I believe you REALLY need to get up to speed before you run it again.

Do I sense someone typing furiously on a keyboard in Southern England?

Welcome to the forum, please be careful.

Thanks, Geno

Listeroid Engines / Re: Camshaft Endcap Anyone?
« on: June 30, 2008, 11:24:23 AM »
I drilled a little hole in my end cap and oil it up it before start up.

Thanks, Geno

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