My 64 M43 Dodge ambulance has an oil bath air cleaner as did a Willys I had years ago. This type of a/c was used for decades in dusty conditions. I dont see any reason it would'nt work. I carved up my stock a/c on the 6/1, went to the auto parts store and and found a tube type filter that fit with less restriction.
Thanks, Geno

Copybell, I'd like to hear how you did it too.
Thanks, Geno

Thanks for your help.
Holy smokes, that’s a lot of information in a few sentences but that’s the way I am too. I’ll check the insulation class and get the proper coating and clean it up as well. There are no wood wedges, it was the camera. I have had good luck on fully sealed bearings as well (in other applications) and will use them. I do know the advantage of heating and cooling bearings and their shafts and will do so. My wife has four legs and a tail and will do anything for bowl of food.
http://www.sprucemtsurplus.com/temp/cruise-control.jpg

Thanks, Geno<at>sprucemtsurplus.com

Radiator Fans: (pun intended) This is a steam radiator, (no cross flow passage or fittings on top) Fittings are on the bottom, one on each side depending on the application. I have another like this with 4 more fins and 80 years worth of paint. I also have a plain jane hot water radiator, not as sexy, which I’ll probably use on the genset. Its about the same size as a window fan and will be used to heat the garage. No pump just thermo. I want to use the hot water for the house but have to figure a good way to do it. The generator location is incompatible with below zero temperatures and pure water in the lines without spending big bucks, which will (at this time) take too many years to recover. All of the radiators were free from my brother who has restored an old house. I have to sell one that I’ve fixed up and give him the $.

Joe: No timing marks found. I jury rigged a dial indicator today and will see how close I got when I borrow a real one.

Guy, its not powder coated but it is painted black.
http://www.sprucemtsurplus.com/temp/steam-radiator1.jpg

Hotater: Thank you VERY MUCH for the info. I didn’t have the tools to bottom drill as you suggest but did everything I could with the tools available. It appeared to be drilled on center. I’ll have to think about my next move.

If you wanted to use a steam radiator like the one in the pic I think you could just fill it up about 1/2 way with antifreeze, put your hot in and cold out on oppisite sides of the bottom and just tilt it a couple inches toward the cold side. They shed a lot of heat but I'd keep an eye on it when its hot out.

Thank You, Geno

Engine #8739. Ironworks, how did you get your cam to stay in place?  I bought some bronze washers today and will reinstall the cam tomorrow. It took 20 minutes of grinding, sanding and polishing to make each one fit right. I wish I had a lathe.

I do plan on using a filter and am leaning toward the Motor Guard.  Aside from a little sand under the crankcase paint and right cam cover this engine was quite clean.

Thank You, Geno

Tom, I realize and understand the tappet rotation idea. Thrust washers will increase offset, promote tappet rotation and center the roller tappet on the cam lobe.

Scott, I have at least 3/16” axial movement of the cam. Seems like a lot. When the cam is pushed all the to the left, the edge of the roller tappet is on or near the edge of the cam lobe.
http://www.sprucemtsurplus.com/temp/ip-roller.jpg
I will shim it to the right to suppress axial movement, center the roller on the cam and increase tappet to lobe offset.

Thank You, Geno

6/1 Observations:
This is the 1st Listeroid I’ve seen in the flesh, so keep that in mind. I have not run the engine. Other than the flywheels and crank it is completely torn down. Most of my inspection so far looks good. Cylinder bore is good. Someone trapped a piece of crud in the upper, big end, con rod bearing on assembly which harmed the bearing but did very minor damage to the crank. I've seen minor scoring on other wear areas, which will polish out. So far I found 2 very small pockets of sand in the case, under the paint. No sand anywhere else. The oil in the bottom of the sump was thick and a bit smelly but I could not feel any grit between my fingers. The tappets and guides came out easily after removing the paint. Tappett faces need cleaning up. I found more pockets of sand or loose paint today when I put my 3500 psi pressure washer to it. Not nearly as bad as some of the engines I’ve read about but I’m glad to have it out of there. Some rust or sand came out of the water jackets as well. I expected these things and knew what I was getting into but am quite satisfied so far.

Questions:
Gear lash is visible but minimal. My feeler gauges are too wide to get in there. What is it supposed to be?

Idler gear moves in and out 1/8” but fits in the shaft well. Is this ok?

I plan on using the oil pump to lube the top end and filter the oil. The left side is easy. Is there a recommended way of getting the right side, or is it necessary?

Crank journal out of round by .001 is this OK?

While spinning the flywheels I can hear the TRBs in the upper part of the race lightly click into place when gravity lets them. From my experience (with other applications) they should be a little snugger. What do you think?

I just got into the right side cam bushing and its pretty bad but polished out somewhat. I’m starting to think I need a rebuild kit. My question is, should I put some time on the engine to flush out any remaining contamination and then rebuild or rebuild it now and take a chance I got it clean?

Bearing pics. The camera flash seems to make flaws look worse than they really are. Is it as bad as it looks?
http://www.sprucemtsurplus.com/temp/con-rod.jpg
http://www.sprucemtsurplus.com/temp/lower-bearing.jpg

Thank You, Geno