My website doesn't say it but all the bushings went in the freezer prior to my installation attempts. The upper rod bushing would get hot from the hot con rod  before I even got it aligned. I did get it in and aligned but it wasnt easy. The wrist pin was a tighter fit due to some bushing compression. No binding but no play when its oiled up.  All I'm waiting for now are the Timken TRBs and I can really get going.

Thanks, Geno

My right cam bushing was installed with the oil groove on the bottom. I assume this is wrong and it should be up?  I'll be putting it back together soon and want to make sure I do it right.



Thanks, Geno

George may have some some in bronze.  http://www.utterpower.com/idler.htm  Others may have cast.
This has become a real problem and not just on twins anymore. To the best of my knowledge its only the higher hp singles that break gears aside from the occasional 6/1 with stamped timing marks.
See this post  http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=231.0

Is this the difinitive procedure for measuring backlash? How about .005? Checking every 45º or so of rotation would indicate if the idler is out of round. Mine will be going back together soon and I want to make sure its right.

Quote from: Tom on May 24, 2006, 10:18:56 pm
Guy and Kevin,

Just to confirm that we are all talking the same thing. The lash would be measured with a dial indicator on a tooth of the cam gear and the measurement would be the amount of rotation before the slop is taken up in the gear train. And if that is the case Guy's number of 5 thou would probably be an undetectable amount when just rocking the gears back and forth.

It seems like excessive lash could be contributing to the gear failure some have experienced as the gears slap against each other. It seems like I need to attend to this before I have "chunks". And seeing as Tim lost a bronze gear that is not the answer either. So what should I do? Put the aluminum one in that I have on the shelf and see how it fits?

Tom

Thanks, Geno

The transformer in this, and many other UPS’s stores enough power to allow the inverter to come on line. I don’t know if that’s still the case with newer ones.

This units manual shows 90% efficiency and has survived many lightning strikes. 2000-1 protection, up to 6000 volts, 200 amps, I think. I gave the manual back yesterday.

The computer company I work for has provided power conditioning/UPS systems for our computers for 15+ years. I’ve thrown out or sent back enough units to keep us all happy. In the old days computers needed more, and better quality power to run properly. This makes the older units more suited to my needs. The power losses of the older units is a concern, but in my experience they are MUCH more robust. I don’t like a 10% loss, but my needs are different from others. I’m just exploring options anyway. The newer UPS’s do clean up the power but are more for ensuring a controlled shut down of the server. Recovering from one day’s data loss for some of my clients is more costly than the price of a server. Our normal units these days are 1 kva and I’ve got a bunch of those as spares. I found my old o-scope a few months ago and when I get the time I’ll have to do some testing.

That being said there are probably many of these units out there, power conditioners or UPS’s, and many more thrown away. Electronic surplus houses, flea markets, military surplus. Ebay has an old 325-watt Oneac for $125.00 That’s ridiculous for such a tiny output. Current liability and litigation happy people make many company’s loathe to sell or give away anything no longer useful to them. What if they sold a used ups that got shorted in a dangerous way due to rough handling during shipment? A billion $ company has deep pockets.

Thanks, Geno

Model: FD5.3KVA
Manufacturer: Best Power Technology.

If the batteries on this thing ever die I can probably get it for free.
It was put into service around 12 years ago and has survived many lightning strikes in and around the building. There has been no maintenance on it in 10 years.

My main use would be to provide clean, constant voltage/frequency to my equipment/house.

If I hooked it up would It be more efficent to strap my ST head at 120 or 240?

It’s a big inverter but I don’t, at this time, have a good use for it.
Any comments on practical uses of any kind would be appreciated.

My main question is: Will my ST head provide clean enough power for it to even turn on. Newer UPS’s won’t turn on without good clean power.

The manual shows a 90% efficiency. Is clean power a good trade off to a 10% loss.

Its also got a 70 amp. break before make bypass switch. I can find a use for that!

Thanks, Geno

The bolt will come out when the studs for the cam cover are removed and you can move the cam cover a bit so the pivot bolt is clear of the flywheel.

Addition: The above might be wrong but its real close. My pivot bolt did the same thing but it did come out without removing the flywheel. Take out the studs, the pump and fiddle with it. Mine is a pile of parts right now so I cant look at it to jog my memory. I do remember driving out the pin on the shutdown lever so maybe that has something to do with it.

I once put so much lube in a motorcycle throttle cable it clogged up the carb (mikuni flat slide, it ran right into the carb) I got stuck several miles in the woods.

My point: I have “over maintained” equipment to the point I’ve burnt myself. Not even time will tell if I’ve done it this time. I’ve heard experienced people from both sides of the fence comment on if inspecting/replacing the crank bearings is needed. I decided to do it and I’ve probably got 15-20 hours into it.

GET A PROPER PULLER

Both flywheels are off, the crank is on the bench. I have a small drill groove in the flywheel and the crank is untouched. My drill bit wandered up a bit or something. Key material was soft. I made 3 guides and spaced them out evenly.

Paul: My crank slot went past the end of the key so finding the end was easy. My flywheel has a rough, recessed, channel, about an inch wide in the middle. (Your broached area perhaps) It’s as if they didn’t have the quality tools to machine the whole way through. I don’t know if this caused my problems. Rocking did nothing to break or deform the key. Pulling the flywheel over it is another story.

GET A PROPER PULLER

I was able to borrow a proper puller for the other side and the key started moving before I knew it. The funny thing is that I poured the Jameson’s on the other side! Perhaps my frugal Irish ancestors were trying to tell me something. Don’t waste good Whiskey!

I just got done and don’t feel like doing anything else tonight or taking pictures. I’m disappointed yet happy for the learning experience and glad its over.

Have I forgot to mention:

GET A PROPER PULLER