Another thing to note is that there is no worn path in front of the door.

We can soon fix that, just post the address......

Brian

At least some of the originals had springs(mine included) .They're also shown in the parts book that I have (1952?)
As an aside, I've just found that a Dremel mounted in a lathe tool post makes a lovely job of grinding the "graunches" out of well used (& abused) rocker spindles.Now all I've got to do is make the undersize bushes....


Cheers,

Brian

While Peter's away at the cricket,(sad, sad person ) I've dug up the figures for my 1940 rods:

b/e 2067
l/e 1167
Total rod weight 3234g

From memory, the 2 rods were pretty close to identical.These figures would be for the lighter one, the other being ground to match.
I'll bet Peter's figures come up pretty close. Mr lister seems to have liked to keep things consistent
I might actually get to run this engine again soon.It's taken well over a year to get around to finishing it.hope it's worth the wait!

Cheers,

Brian

Tom,
      I've put a gear reduction starter from a Holden V8 (Aus made Chev) onto my 12/2. The flex plate is only 13" diameter so the mounting is outboard of the flywheel and a bit ugly. Haven't used the valve lifters(decompressors) since.Yes, it grunts a bit over the first compression stroke but doesn't seem to be doing any harm and starts first time, every time (especially if you remember to open the fuel rack ) Is my wife happy or what?
I'm not sure that a belted reduction is really necessary.(Unless all of the bits are to hand for free, of course  )
 BTW, for battery charging, I'm using a 1.25 A regulated trickle charger 24/7/365 (from my solar batteries)
Seems to work fine but i would imagine it will use a bit of battery water.Having said that, I haven't topped up the battery so far after 6 months.

cheers,

Brian

Hi all,
      This will probably only confuse things, but my Powerline rockers are different to the Dursley items. the Indian version are drilled perpendicular to the main axis whereas the original version is like this:

http://gallery.netxp.com.au/album08/154_5484

Anyone care to comment?

Cheers,

Brian

they all have em,,, maybe smaller inclusions,, maybe not?
maybe better cover, such as lead filler instead of cheap putty or bondo or some form of elephant snot

     I've got a 1941 10/2 and a 1924 "L" (petrol), both of which have porosity in the flywheel spokes (the earlier motor is much worse) This was hidden at the factory by "icing" (some form of plaster type material). After sandblasting, it takes some time to convince yourself that this must be OK 'cos the motors have been running so long.
     Inclusions? Not seen any but that doesn't mean they're not there!

Cheers,

Brian

Grand master RCA (grasshopper?)
       The rubber splitting issue may just be a quality thing. I used to work in a firm that made boat rollers and they were made of the cheapest mix imaginable, combined with any leftover scrap. If I were you I'd try again, using better quality rubber.One avenue would be to use short lengths of a good quality hose, even if you have to place one length inside another to get the diameters. One of those red polyurethane boat rollers might be worth a try, although they are a little thermoplastic. This could be made worse by the generation of heat through hysteresis within the material itself.
     Hell, don't give up so easily! I dream of having an engine that makes power at 100RPM! I just don't have anywhere near the dedication that you obviously have!

Best of luck

Brian