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Messages - listard-jp2

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16
Engines / Re: LPW2 Build 902 change fixed to variable speed
« on: December 06, 2021, 09:12:45 PM »
Try roger Drennan, at Cotswold Diesel Engines.

He may have that part as a good used item. If so he will want a fraction of the price you have been quoted.

https://gb.kompass.com/c/cotswold-diesel-servicing/gb07710907/

17
Listeroid Engines / Re: Big end wear or damage
« on: December 03, 2021, 05:53:15 PM »
The same engineer suggested unbolting the conrod and checking for wear/damage with a view to replacing the bearing. Now I have seen there are different thicknesses of replacement bearings shells to ( I assume) account for wear such as I may have. He suggested this should be an easy thing to do and check... he's experienced I am not

As your engine is relatively new, the big end journals should still be on standard size, and if your lucky and caught it soon enough. You may be able to get away with just replacing the big end shell bearings (after polishing the big end journals).

However the condition of the big end journals is going to determine if this is a viable solution. If they are scored you may end up needing a crank grind on the big end journals.

Finally I would suggest replacing the big end shell bearings on the other cylinder whilst your in there.


My questions to the enlightened is ..... is is a relatively simple thing to unbolt the conrod via the open side of the crankcase.


Yes, I have done this myself on numerous occasions, however as your engine is installed in a narrow boat, you will not find it particularly easy.

Then is it a matter of checking the surface as well as measurements of the shaft the conrod bearing clamps to. If there is not real wear replace the shell bearing with like for like ....


Yes and Yes, Standard journal size would be 2.4975/2.498" if we were dealing with a genuine Lister CS engine, but more importantly is ovality of the journal. More that 0.002" out of round and your into regrind territory.


If there is wear replacing the shell bearing with one to compensate for the wear?

Yes, upto 0.0060" undersize. However, be sure to specify a Lead / Indium bearing for the top half bearing shell, because if you fit a white metal version you will knock out he big end in no time.


Obviously if the crankshaft surface is damaged too badly i expect that it is the crankshaft out to have it build up and turned back to spec?


It will be ground to the undersize (in 0.010" increments) at which the journal cleans up at.

Why not take it back to Redshaw's for some corrective surgery (that is if your not to far away)


18
Listeroid Engines / Re: Big end wear or damage
« on: December 03, 2021, 11:43:55 AM »

OP, is that a genuine Lister CS 16/2 engine you have in your canal boat?

Or is something more like this (and of Indian origin)?

https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Publicity.html

19
Things I want to Buy / Re: JP3 Lister
« on: December 02, 2021, 07:10:05 PM »
/\ Indeed it was on ebay last week, but it's back again and this time it is a 100 GBP cheaper. If the price keeps dropping I might be tempted myself, for more spares for my own JP2 engines.

The 3 cylinder lump looks to have worn through the chrome plated cylinder liners at TDC, also note the hole in the side of the cylinder head on the 3 cylinder engine, that is for a cylinder head mounted water pump.

FYI: As these are genuine Lister engine, no need to have them stripped down for import in the USA, as they predate the EPA ban under 'Grand father rights'

20
Things I want to Buy / Re: JP3 Lister
« on: December 02, 2021, 06:59:13 AM »
If you like a challenge, then this could be for you:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275048003511?hash=item400a2377b7:g:EgMAAOSwlglhnhL8

However, be aware that genuine JP spares are next to near non existent in your part of the world, and you will most likely need to source parts from India.

Whilst the JP engine is far more robust than its CS relative, it has always been an engine for people with deep pockets, due to the supply of genuine spares largely now been concentrated in the hands of a few UK based dealers.

21
Petteroids / Re: Petter PC1 Engine in a Crawley 75 Tractor
« on: October 24, 2021, 01:20:50 PM »
/\ I would put money on that been an Indian produced item (the Bryce Berger company ceased to exist when Delphi took them over). If your interested I could supply you with a used Bryce injector holder from a Petter PH for less that that.

Having looked into this further myself, I can confirm that injector holder will fit (you may have to increase the length of the injector holding down studs).

However, the injector shroud from a PH will be no good, this item you will have to make from bar stock (either copper or aluminium.

PM me with your email address and if my memory serves me correct we can discuss in more detail what the injector shroud should look like.

 

22
Petteroids / Re: Petter PC1 Engine in a Crawley 75 Tractor
« on: October 20, 2021, 09:38:07 PM »
Having had a bit to do with Petter PC engines, I can confirm that a PAZ1 injector holder will not be suitable. Early PAZ1 injectors are clamped in position with a bridge piece (much like a Lister CS). Later ones dispense with the bridge piece, but are still not suitable as the high pressure fuel connection is at a compound angle to the vertical axis of the piston. Hence if you tried a complete injector assembly from a PAZ1 engine in a PC1. there would be a good chance that the injector spray pattern would be wrong as it would not entirely line up with the combustion chamber in the PC piston crown.

IMHO you would be better to use a Bryce injector holder from a Petter PH or PJ engine, as they look very similar to the correct PC injector holder. Do you have the injector shroud or is that also missing? Both of these items are easily found on the likes of Ebay etc.
If so you may be able to use the same item from a PH engine, though you may need to modify it somewhat.

IIRC The injector shroud on a PC engine was turned out of copper bar, and was a real work of art.

The injector nozzle from either a Petter AV, or PH may be a better choice, as the combustion chamber design is similar to the PC engine (valve cutouts), whereas the PAZ1 combustion chamber has no valve cutouts in the piston crown.

Finally I suggest that you contact Jim Perkins, as he has a website for Petter engines, and may be able to help you with a source of parts.

I do have some used PC parts myself (no injectors or injector shrouds) from a PC2 I rescued from a scrapyard just for the electric start parts, and which I am now looking to move on, as I have no further need for these parts.

23
That being said I do believe that both bores are threaded  as the valves switch positions on the number 2 side of a twin.

That would correct for a 5/1, 6/1, or 8/1 cylinder head, but the 3/1 cylinder head is unique to the 3/1 and 3.5/1 engines, in that the valves guides are closer together (so that they fit within the confines of the 3.3/4" cylinder bore).

The only reason I can think for this is that Lister's had the same production process for all CS cylinder heads (even though in this case it incorporated some surplus machining activities).

24
General Discussion / Re: Any Lister engine experts in Nottingham?
« on: August 14, 2021, 09:30:40 PM »
As suggested another lift pump or repair kit will be the solution but to confirm this rig a gravity feed fuel pump to your system.
This might help identify the problem but the pump needs to be working properly to pressurize the fuel to the correct pressure to feed the rack then injector. Start with the gravity feed then if that works you know it is the lift pump

Sorry, but I have to disagree with you, as the air cooled version of this engine the ST2 operated in numerous applications with a gravity feed fuel system with no problems whatsoever, with the tank mounted directly on the engine

25
General Discussion / Re: Any Lister engine experts in Nottingham?
« on: August 14, 2021, 08:35:47 AM »
If it was me, after changing the fuel filter on the engine, (Crosland 489 or its equivalent), and after bleeding out the fuel system as others have suggested. If the engine still does not run satisfactorily, then I would be tempted to jury rig a temporary gravity feed fuel arrangement which would connect straight to this filter inlet, even if you had to refill the fuel tank every hour or so of running it would at least get you mobile.

From what you have described, it is pointing towards a lift pump problem. However, this lift pump has a rather unique bottom end (the part that interacts with the camshaft lobe IIRC). But, the top part is to be found on many other lift pumps (the part which you need which contains the diaphragm and the non return valves) of the same era, which you could easily swap over to the existing bottom 1/2 of your old lift pump. Alternatively you may be able to obtain a lift pump repair kit. Any good motor factors would be able to obtain these parts for you.

26
Petteroids / Re: Petter Mclaren B2 Valves
« on: July 11, 2021, 09:31:57 AM »
contact dieselman in Kanas email gary@dieselgen.com

I would be surprised if Gary can help you out on this occasion, as the Petter B series diesel engine is rare to see in the UK, let alone the USA.

I struggled to get parts over 10 years ago when I had involvement with B2 engine that was in a canal boat. I had to overcome the exact same problem that you have described.

The owner managed to find some new guides (at a price that would suggest they were made from unobtainium), he also found some exhaust valves from another application that were close to the originals which I had machined accordingly.

The inlet valves were a challenge, because of the shroud on the valve head (these valves will wear on the stem because they are pegged in position, and hence do not rotate).

We got over it by having the inlet valves shot blasted and then TIG welded on the seat area and all of the stem. They were then machined  to a slight oversize on the stem, allowing the worn inlet guides to reclaimed with a an adjustable reamer. This approach with inlet valves also allowed him to keep the inlet valve guides he had bought for possible use at a later date.

If it is of interest I have a couple of +0.040" oversize pistons for that engine I would consider selling, as I have no use for them.

27
Petteroids / Re: Lister Petter LPW3A rebuild
« on: May 23, 2021, 07:48:24 PM »
OK, my mistake.

I believe that engine has a plunger type oil pump, and if so have you either removed the oil pump entirely (it comes out from the bottom of the crankcase), or have you depressed the oil pump push rod, which bears on an eccentric on the camshaft. Either one of these approaches should then allow removal of the camshaft.

I also assume you have removed the individual injector pumps and respective roller followers.

28
Petteroids / Re: Lister Petter LPW3A rebuild
« on: May 21, 2021, 11:35:24 AM »
I never got involved these engines in any depth, due to not been impressed with several of the cheapening up features on this engine range.

Anyway back to your problem, if these engines are anything like the earlier LP engines I have worked on. You will have noticed the main bearings are located in circular housings (cheeses). These cheeses are located in the crankcase with hollow dowel pins (which are not obvious unless you know where to look). There may also be other dowel pins which are located under bolts in other areas of the crankcase.
Proceed to remove any likely bolts that appear to have no immediate function, and  the oil pipework from the main bearing area, and if you probe down these holes [with a suitable O ring pick or similar], you have now exposed in the main bearing area of the crankcase casting, you will feel a hollow dowl pin, these are threaded so you can extract them with a suitable size of studding.

Once removed you can extract the crankshaft complete with the main bearing housings from the crankcase.

29
This may be of interest to some:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203449462378?hash=item2f5e886e6a:g:-0YAAOSwN85gm93V

Note the Bosch injector pump, and early style fuel filter. It will also have feeler pins on the injectors. Shame they managed to break the manifolds.

Same seller also has a Lister FR6 listed as well.

30
This item:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LISTER-CS-SINGLE-CYLINDER-CRANK-SHAFT-BRAND-NEW-3-5-1-6-1-DIESEL-ENGINE/284219484117

Has now been on ebay for over a week (at the time of starting this thread). For a genuine NOS crankshaft that is a bargain price, and I cannot understand why it is still unsold. Obviously the interest in Lister CS engines is not what it once was.

FWIW: I have had dealings with this seller in the past, and he is a reliable chap.

Interestingly if you wanted an Indian version of this item it is available from the well known UK based seller in York, and it would be approaching twice this price.

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