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Messages - 38ac

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General Discussion / Re: forum
« on: July 31, 2021, 11:28:12 AM »
Yes thanks to all who worked to bring it back up.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Metro 12/2 rebuild
« on: July 21, 2021, 11:36:00 AM »
Yes the pin is tapered. Starting out at square one they come out IF one positively located the small end AND uses the correct near size drift AND hits it hard the FIRST time. However once it has been knocked on and it is now mushroomed to some extent the job becomes more tedious. First you need to positively located to small end. Then grind it flush with the cam lobe to remove as much mushroom as possible. Then grind the tip of a punch so it is slightly smaller than the pin. Then heat the cam lobe with a torch, must be hot, not warm, but not red hot. Quickly grab the punch and hammer and hit it good ONCE. 99 times it will move, if not do NOT keep on hitting it as you are doing nothing but mushrooming the pin. Heat it again and give it another hit.  I have had one case were I had to cut the lobe off the cam, it was a very neglected engine that another person had butchered previously.  I keep the pins here or order them from McMaster Carr.

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 6/1 Lister injector specifications
« on: July 18, 2021, 03:32:36 PM »
Personally I would be supect of a shop that didn't have or didn't know how to look up the specs.
Lister   6/1, 8/1   CAV numbers that they can cross if need be.
Pump BPF1B70CS6253   
Nozzle holder BKB50S507b   
Nozzle BDL30S46   
Setting pressure 110 atms   

I have both rebuild parts and complete new Bosch MICO injectors in stock.

Changfa Engines / Re: So,, how long have these been available???
« on: July 15, 2021, 10:19:52 PM »
The one I ordered on fleabay said New Jersey location but no matter, you can bet that either NJ or Ca. is  drop point for an overseas shipment and they are coming directly from China.
I plan to set up a test stand and a load, probably a fan and give the thing a durability test. My guess is if it lasts 10 hours with a heavy but not full rack load  that they will run a while.  Not much metal there as compared to an L48 Yanmar that's for sure.

Changfa Engines / So,, how long have these been available???
« on: July 14, 2021, 11:50:44 AM »
One of these showed up for sale locally. 196CC 3HP diesel. I thought the EPA banned the small diesels? Anyway I  searched them a bit and found they are on eBay and Amazon and if you shop a bit, just over $200. For that kind of money I ordered one just to play with.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Aluminium Piston
« on: July 10, 2021, 11:36:18 PM »
Exactly! The correct bump depends on if equipped with COV and has nothing to do with HP.  The endless India Modifications cause much confusion with specs.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Aluminium Piston
« on: July 10, 2021, 02:48:40 AM »
It's one heck of a lot easier to get the rings started in the bore when the block is upside down on a bench and everything is right in front of you than looking sideways or up under the block while also fighting the weight of the block, but to each his own. The drag of the rings will keep the piston from falling out. As compared to a COV equipped engine and non COV will have more compression than when the COV is screwed out, but less than when it is screwed in.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Metro 12/2 rebuild
« on: July 09, 2021, 11:12:21 AM »
"loose" is subjective thus I can't be of much help. The bolt/shaft tightens against a shoulder this as you have discovered one can tighten until it breaks and it will not affect the clearances.  There is always some movement in the gear, especially noticeable if twisted on the axis. Actuall clearance with new parts I would guess is .001/ .002".  If correction is needed options are to bush the gear or replacement.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Aluminium Piston
« on: July 09, 2021, 11:07:49 AM »
The 4 ring piston is a copy of the original Lister part while the 5 ring is an India modification. I have used both with equal success. There is less weight to lift if you first lift the cylinder block up off the piston. Then undo the big end and remove the piston and rod. Keep track of all shims between the block and crankcase and also between the rod and cap. Assembly differs in that you will insert the piston from the bottom of the cylinder block with rod attached. Then drop the assembly over the long studs. ALLWAYS check squish or bump when assembling.  The specs aren't handy to me as I type but per memory an 8/1 or non COV equipped 6/1 should be  .070". I will check and confirm later.

Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 29, 2021, 11:12:35 AM »
Wow, a lot of thought went into that. Thanks.
  Even though my lathes have clutched head stocks and a brake it is near impossible to stop close to a shoulder when you cannot disengage the half nuts. Another technique is to mount the tool upside down or on the back side of the spindle. You then cut a small relief groove up next to the shoulder (no different than you end up with when using the half nuts to stop the carriage) and cut the thread from the shoulder out running the spindle backwards leaving the half nuts in. Aligning the next pass is accomplished by turning the spindle by hand once you are close bumping the switch.

All in all of I had to cut many metric threads I would find a metric lathe😊

Listeroid Engines / Re: Metro 12/2 rebuild
« on: June 28, 2021, 05:02:56 PM »
The con rod bearings are all the same other than material make up but there are several main bearing combinations. Seldom do the mains need replacing.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Metro 12/2 rebuild
« on: June 28, 2021, 04:08:53 AM »
I should have those rings in stock along with bearings, gaskets sets etc if you have any needs.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Metro 12/2 rebuild
« on: June 27, 2021, 12:49:34 PM »
In case you didn't realize it that is a direct injection engine. Most of the upper end parts and the pistons are not interchangeable with the standard pattern engines.

Can't tell a thing about the cylinders in the photos. Clean, hone and inspect for wear and damage. Looks like that engine was run on something other than diesel fuel

Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 26, 2021, 12:58:22 PM »
Yes, I understand what you are doing. My big lathe is a Colchester copy and Imperial,  my smaller lathe is Chinese but also Imperial but both work the same way. Mine are equipped with Norton boxes so I don't have to change gears, just flip levers but it accomplishes same end. Places a 127-1 ratio in the lead screw to allow metric threading. Also have threading dials but they are worthless when threading metric. They won't put me back on the lead. Now it is my understanding that using a metric lathe adapted to imperial that the same thing happens? Makes sense but also can be wrong. There may be some new techniques out there but old school taught one to leave the half nuts in and back 'er up.

Engines / Re: Makeshift repairs and babbit
« on: June 25, 2021, 12:10:18 PM »
I would be interested in how you make your thread dial work as it has always been my understanding that if one released the half nuts that the dial can only be right after 127 revolutions when threading metric on an imperial lathe or vise versa.  As you may know there is  no mechanical way (gearing) to EXACTLY convert an imperial lathe to a metric one, the math equation goes to infinity, much like pie, 3.14,,,,,,,,,,,,, the 127 ratio used for lathe conversation gets things close enough for most work but in an exact world a lathe can only thread one or the other without changing the lead screw. 
I am not downplaying what you have done! I like to replicate it if I can.  I thread a lot of metric stuff on my imperial lathe and have always backed it up but I have a clutched headstock which makes it quite a bit easier to accomplish.

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