Some pictures of my ST15 mods. This type box came also came from Home Depot. There are beter quality water proof enclosers available at electrical supply houses but they do get expensive. Buy good lugs, the cheapos are hardly any better than the Chinese suppied junk. These came from Grainger.

The generator output is determined by the size and capabilities of the alternator but this is limited to the HP of the engine/prime mover. So if I attach a 20 kva alternator to my CS6/1 the engine will limit the power output to 3kva regardless of the fact that the engine is turning the alternator at the prescribed rpm. Is this correct?

Reg

You are almost correct.

This part is right on
"The generator output is determined by the size and capabilities of the alternator but this is limited to the HP of the engine/prime mover"

The rest is not quite right or I am misunderstanding you. With a 20KW head driven by a 6/1 it will maintain RPM (within the capibilites of the governor) up until you reach maximum engine output., 3KW is close enough for this discussion. After that point adding additional load will cause the engine to slow down and the voltage will drop along with the frequency.  If the original 3KW head has some reserve it will behave exactly the same way as the 20KW head in a overload situation. If the 3KW head does not have any reserve capacity then there may be a  gain in performance  in a very small area of operation between where the 3KW head falls short and you run out of engine power.

Not sure yet Bob but likely before Saturday

Hard for my bad ears to tell from a video but fellas I'm sticking with typical DI knock. I have both styles in a standard CS type 6/1 and there is a large differance between the IDI CS and my Metro DI engine both spill timed to same spec.

 Although again hard to tell from a video and I had no load on it when this was taken you can hear the heavy ignition knock on my DI 6/1 Metro. It is lots louder than my CS IDI types.  Put about half a load and it sounds just just Veggies.
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Me 

its two weeks away Sid, Are you walking?? LOL 

I might be kinda on your way, stop by if you wish. PM me for a phone number.

Fun to chat about but for those who seriously worry about flywheel explosions a story to share.

Back when I was helping a local racing engine builder the question always came up "how far can I take it before it blows up" the builder would aways answer the same way. Your safe operating range is X RPMs. Often the buyer would press on, yes you have told me that but I want to know at what RPM you think it will come apart? The builder would stop what he was doing and answer. Only the safe operating speed has to be calculated, I can tell you exactly at what RPM your engine will come apart by putting it on the test stand and reving it up until it explodes,,,, how bad do you want to know the answer to your question?

What is really important, the failure point?  Or the safe operating speed? Which is important? Which do you realy want to know?

As Lister clone operators all we really need to be aware of is safe operateing speed and we dont need to  engineer a thing, its already been done for us.

1. What was designed and engineered in England and for what HP and what RPM and don't exceed them. When you go over 850 RPM you are in no-man's land.
2. No matter the design, India can screw it up with bad material and workmanship, hot tank those flywheels so you know what is iron and what is putty.
3. NEVER make habit of standing in line with a flywheel at speed for the first time, or any other time for that matter.

Chat on my friends, this post is mainly for those who would suddenly be afraid to start their engine after reading.