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Messages - 38ac

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1696
Listeroid Engines / Re: 18/1 Tear down
« on: August 15, 2012, 03:28:44 AM »
I am in the rust belt too, 'tween Columbus and Cleveland. Same here with the shops. Was 3 good engine machine shops in our town and two P poor ones, now one P poor one.  I do everything in house now except grind cranks.  It will likely be a bit before I start on the 18/1 as I have a TL Lister begging for attention but I have been swayed before ;) I actually have a use for the 18/1, the Lister is a toy, :D

1697
Generators / 1115 and 15KW ST installation
« on: August 15, 2012, 02:17:24 AM »
Those who follow my ramblings here know I had this mounted on a trailer for portability but during the recent 60 hours outage I found what everyone who runs one knew already, the Chinese singles real mission in life is to destroy anything attached to them. This one isn't the best behaved balance wise and in 60 hours it manged to just about destroy all the mounts and was working on the electrical panels too. So I trashed the portable idea and have spent my spare time since the storm making it permanent.  Couple pictures show the story for the most part. Frame is made from 4" channel. Radiator, fan and temp switch are all Geo Metro items. overflow tank is a Honda fuel tank. 15 gallon fuel tank is a farm tractor unit and I added a pre-filter since the Chinese item is hard to source.   Still need to vent the exhaust outside and finish the battery box mounting.


1698
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: A new British Iron Project
« on: August 14, 2012, 01:28:24 PM »
I am in agreement that there is less interest in mechanical things than in the past but I also think that preservation and playiing with old equipment has always been the hobby of "older types" not young men.  I am in my mid fifties and remember my father saying the same thing 40 years ago, nobody has interest and the hobby will die with us (them).  Personally my interests in antiquities and preservation was pretty much zilch until I was in my mid 40s. While most young people cannot explain hit miss governing they can do things with an I-phone so fast it makes my head spin. Of what importance is that? some might say.  Those with no interest in our hobby will rightfully ask  of what importance is your old flywheels going round and round?  Some will get it at some point in life, some wont, there are older types today who don't know diesel fuel from gasoline don't ya know?  I have two sons, 21 and 22. One gets it when it comes to old flywheels going round and round the other doesn't. Both are mechanics by trade and damn good ones I must say. One goes with me to shows, the other plays with an I-phone in his spare time.
What's all this ramble about? I don't think I know for sure, LOL but I don't think there is reason for panic over who is going to carry on. Many of the guys who collected when these things were available for scrap price are passing on and many huge collections are being sold and the prices will make a person's head spin. Somebody has interest for sure ;)

1699
Listeroid Engines / Re: 18/1 Tear down
« on: August 14, 2012, 12:55:26 PM »
Welcome!
I have an 18/1 myself that is waiting it's place in line for time to work on it.  Although not a bad approach sandblasting is going to miss some of the harder to knock loose slag/sand/steel mixtures I think? Of course that depends on how good the equipment is and the size of the sand used.  Shot peening would probably be my first choice if I had it in my shop. That not being the case I go with a lye bath hot tank to remove all paint and oil then a needle scaler which works more like shot peen than sand blasting. Even then there are times when I put it down and get out a hammer and punch. Once you break through the crust you often will find loose sand/slag underneath.  Unless A person spends considerable time and effort i don't think he will ever get rid of 100% of it. My goals are to get rid of the piles and loose stuff and then seal the rest tight with good paint. This is another reason to hot tank, so the paint will adhere permanently.  I wondered how heavy those flywheels are. I guessed double a 6/1 type.  Gibb keys are not understood by the Indians, a total mystery. Google "fitting Gibb keys" or similar and learn how to do it right. New ones are cheap, get some from Gary and fit them right and they don't have to be installed with a 75lb sledge to stay tight and they can be removed with out trouble too.

Keep us informed on the build please,

Butch

1700
Listeroid Engines / Re: timing marks & ring compressors
« on: August 13, 2012, 02:14:54 PM »
As Quinn said, forget the marks you cant depend on the Indians to get them right anyway.  Getting the timing right is easily accomplished without them. I intend to make a video someday as it get rather wordy when I explain it.  If you have previously found and marked your TDC good for you place the crank there and have a helper hold it. If you don't have a TDC mark all is not lost! Just peer down from the top and center the crank throw in the opening for the cylinder. Look down both sides and center it as well as you can by sight. A very important thing for all to remember is you CANNOT be off just a degree or so, only an entire tooth which will become obvious later. Anyway get the crank throw centered as good as you can by sight and have your helper hold it. Then turn the camshaft until you are at the overlap or valve split position. This is where you have one lifter going up and the other down. There is a very small window of rotation where this occurs. try to find the middle of the split. Then with the crank at TDC and the lifters split you install the idler gear. It takes a bit a fiddling to do this and you may have to bump the crank a few degrees to get it to fall into place but you want the closest meshing tooth which ever direction it may be. Before you install the idler gear shaft look at the crank and your lifters. It will either be so close you have to keep looking to decide or it will OBVIOUSLY be off. If you cant decide it is very likely correct and install the idler gear shaft. If it is obviously off time them jump it a tooth and check again. This saves knocking the shaft in and out of the block, most of them are a tight fit.  Now to check you work turn the crankshaft while looking at the lifters. go back and forth until you have them in overlap. THEN look down at the crank, is it in the middle? Is so pat yourself on the back and go onward. If not then adjust the mesh in the needed rotation. AGAIN do not forget that you cannot get just a "little bit" of adjustment. If you must keep looking at it intensely in an effort to decide if it is off then it is OK. When you are off a tooth is is very obvious that the crank is not at TDC with the valves spilt. Good luck!

1701
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: A new British Iron Project
« on: August 13, 2012, 01:46:41 PM »
It was my pleasure to spend a day with Bob before the show and help him get things ready.

  Although I had warned him early on about the ability of a Bamfords engine to put one to sleep he didn't pay heed to my warnings. Here is Bob who is SUPPOSED to be watching the displays while James and I walked the show. In fairness he didn't have a chance! Sitting between 3 running Bamfords will put anyone to sleep in just a few minutes.


1702
Listeroid Engines / Re: KOEL 8/1 Project
« on: August 08, 2012, 11:45:21 AM »
Tard here OK? :P :P but I cannnot find the info for the radiator. Could you post year/model for me?

1703
Listeroid Engines / Re: What Oil?
« on: August 07, 2012, 12:53:41 PM »
I am pretty much in agreement with what Bob just posted about motor oil. I am also pretty sure that I wont live long enough to sort it all out.
The lubricants these engines were designed to operate with were very crude compared to anything you can buy today, that you can take to the bank.  At this point in life I am leaning towards ones time and brain activity is better spent keeping up with oil change intervals,  sump levels and necessary accessories like the cooling system than searching for the elusive all  conquering super fluid. Engine oils differ from hydraulic and gear oils in how they deal with moisture and dirt, don't mix and match them. For new, or clean engines use detergent oils for sure. The only exception being break in oil in certain applications. You cannot go wrong with Rotella but there are several other very good 15w-40 diesel rated oils. Synthetic? For  engines like the CS types with no filters and no crankcase evacuation extended changee intervals are out so there is little to nothing to gain,, in my slightly ;) opinionated opinion.

1704
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Bamfords Z2 completed
« on: August 06, 2012, 01:30:07 PM »
That's the plan  ;)

1705
Listeroid Engines / Re: KOEL 8/1 Project
« on: August 06, 2012, 01:28:14 PM »
Chin UP!  You are not that far away with your balance. As somebody said there is far too much weight going up and down to get a perfect balance by adding weight that goes round and round.  You can however get one of them to sit pretty much still meaning it doesnt hop or scoot around.  Myself I find it easier to get rid of some of the variables before going to the Mr X method. My ramblings on that are a page or so back on this forum.  However If you start and stop it enough times and dont forget where and how much weight you have added you can get there. That is how I did my 6/1 metro prior to developing my more scientific method. You can see the results on my You tube channel  The38ac

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2YwtlfAVfc


1706
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Bamfords Z2 completed
« on: August 06, 2012, 02:54:05 AM »
R

1707
Listeroid Engines / Re: KOEL 8/1 Project
« on: August 04, 2012, 09:16:30 AM »
The manuals for my ST heads say either direction.  One thing you run into with big/little pulleys and V-belt drives is called arc correction factor.  What this amounts to is the contact surface area of the smaller pulley. The closer the two are together the less contact there is on the smaller pulley and  the more you have to correct for it with the engineering. TotaL HP I am sure you are well within guidelines but one thing youhave to deal with is chirp which is the slowing down and speeding up of the engine each cycle vs the generator shaft wanting to remain steady RPM and slipping the belt.  The loads that causes are many times over the HP of the engine.  Were me Id space it out a bit but to help with the arc correction factor and the extra belt length is a shock absorber for chirp too.

1708
Listeroid Engines / Re: Catastrophic failure
« on: August 03, 2012, 11:57:30 AM »
Wow, that is ugly. :o

1709
Listeroid Engines / Re: 12/1 tear down
« on: August 01, 2012, 01:51:37 PM »
Best way is just as Dieselgman said and dont forget the rest of the castings too including the rod. The rod in my 6/1 Metro was covered with flaking mill scale. You need to get rid of the oil, paint and putty first and that = hot tank.  Places that hot tank are getting fewer and futher between, you can do it at home with a 55 gallon drum over a wood fire and 2-3 lbs of lye. Getting rid of the left over swill is not difficult I just boil it down and place the solids in a old gallon paint can and take it to one of the many household hazardous waste deals we have arond here. Once cooked out get the block up to a comfortable height and you go in with a needle scaler, various punches and chisels. You have to rotate it so you are looking in and working from from every hole, each time you will find new catches of India's finest casting sand and left over slag. Be aware that the places that are hardest for you too see and clean is where your going to find the most of it. Yes youwant to paint the block reason being you will never get rid of 100% of the sand especialy if you have a particularly poor casting. You get rid of the vast bulk of it and seal the rest for life so it does no harm. This is the other reason for hot tanking the block, so the paint will adhear. Gyptol is a good product but sometimes hard to source. I use same thing only made by differant company and sold at W W Grainer. One can will easily do all the castings on a single.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SPRAYON-Insulating-Varnish-1D276?Pid=search


1710
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: metro 30/2
« on: August 01, 2012, 02:09:47 AM »
Nope, I have one that can be bought though. ;D

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