I am not sure I have to do too much adjustment to the rpm as the unloaded generator is running right in at 61.3 Hz  Thats okay.  It is the lower voltage that has me concerned.  Like I said earlier, I thought 120 V was the N.A. standard, and this puts out 110-ish (less if under load).  That is fine for a purely resistive load, but as soon as a motor gets involved (think sump pump or furnace fan), I am wondering if I shouldn't have more volts. 

You should be able to adjust the voltage up to 120v with the SFR, when it’s wired correctly. You may need to put it up to 125v no-load if the voltage drops too much on-load. Adjust the AFR for on-load voltage. This should be behind the genny end cover.
Starting a motor could be a problem, it depends what size motor, but this would be true of any generator you fitted. The output of the engine will be the limiting factor, even if you fit a larger genny.
   Mark.

Mark;

I have to re-read Mick's information, and get up the guts to start playing with big-assed hand wound resistors, but I am a little confused about your last statement....
"If the engine is 3.5hp @ 1800rpm it will only produce 1500rpm on the constant rating" Are you saying the engine speed drops 300 rpm under load? 

Sorry, that’s a typo. It should read 1500 watts. You may well get it drop in revs/HZ when the engine is under load, it depends how well it regulates.
As Dieselman says, set the rpm before any other adjustment. You may find that the off-load rpm needs to be increased later if a full load drops the voltage too much.
    Mark. 

Hi Mark.

Infatuation?  SOMs?   Madness!!! .   Now heating the portacabin with CS coolant a`la "Bottleveg" CHP system, it`s toasty.

Mark.

Hi Mark.
Yes your right. My infatuation with SOM’s clouds my vision sometimes.
   Mark.

[/quote]

Glad your keeping warm Mark. What have you got? Coolant water through a rad in the portacabin and then back?
  Mark.

It’s as Mark says, push button start.
Looking at the top in photo no.1 you have battery neutral wire to the left and going down to a brush on the COM. Positive battery wire to the right, going to the push button solenoid and then down to another brush on the COM. So that takes care of the starting.
The item on the left, that looks like three sheets of metal with a bolt through, is a rectifier. Then you have two meters, one for battery charging amps and the other for AC amps or volts? Between the two meters is your AC out?
The two wire-wound tubes in photo no. 2 are resistors. The top one is (normally) for setting battery charge rate and the two ‘bands’ are to set hi/low charge. The bottom resistor is (normally) for setting the no-load voltage for the shunt field winding.
The wiring on your resisters appears to be back-to-front.
I’m not sure what the two boxes are at the bottom. Is one an AC switch or fuse?
Do I see six or seven wires passing through the top box to the genny?
The two thicker ones are for starting (as mentioned above). Then you should have two from the slip rings that go up to the AC out.
The remaining two are from the shunt field winding. Normally this circuit would be from a + brush on the COM, up to the shunt field resistor (adjustable side), out from the other end of the resister, through the shunt field winding and finish at a - brush on the COM.
There would normally only be two wires going to the shunt field resister and then a link to the charge resister. Another wire was added from the early 60’s. This was bonded to the starter winding and ran to the charge resister, doing away with the link and giving ‘seven’ wires through the top box.
Any photos of inside the genny?
    Mark.

Judging from the battery leads it’s a Start-O-Matic.
I haven’t seen one with a top box (dog house) that big so maybe home made.
The genny looks like a BKB (Birmingham UK).
More photos needed of inside the top box and the end of the genny, with the cover removed.
  Mark.

I make it 1949.
http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/EngineDating/Dating.htm

E.D.C. 

I wonder why Lister changed from EDC to BKB and never seemed to use MEM (Mawdsley) who were just down the road?

Shame to scrap it! Here's the manual for that model-
http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/ListerData/SOMMenu1.htm
Out of interest, does the alternator plate have 'Lister' on it or the makers name?