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Listeroid Engines / Re: Purchased Used Lovoson 12/2 in non-working condition (Fuel trouble)
« on: May 24, 2018, 01:30:09 AM »
Where do you order a new injector and pump? Just wondering
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Listeroid Engines / Re: Largest displacement listeroid single ?
« on: May 24, 2018, 12:43:57 AM »
Well mine a16/1 is supposed to be 16 hp at 1000 rpms but I run it at 640 rpm so I’m not sure of the hp I can tell you it runs a 10 k gen head all day at full load with no issues
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Listeroid Engines / Re: My God! Can't old posts go away!
« on: May 24, 2018, 12:33:42 AM »
I agree with listerboy there is so much useful information it would be very sad to loose it all
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General Discussion / Re: where is everybody from?
« on: February 28, 2013, 02:01:46 AM »
Mike90045 The hose in the pic was for a temp cooling it is now connected with a radator
12 volt hydraulic pump runs a hydraulic cylinder and a hydraulic motor
yes it will crank over the compression
special made pump (SPI I think), Witt hydraulic motor, Surplus Center cylinder,16.5 " tire, a log splitter controll valve plumbed backwards and the drain back to tank connected the hyd. motor.
When the cylinder extends,putting the pressure on the tire and flywheel the controll lever returns to center position and the tire stays engaged with the flywheel. After the engin starts I move the lever the other way and the cylinder retracts keeping the tire turning while retracting away from the flywheel.
I have been using this system for 4 years now no problems.
Rember I have a 16/1 which has alot of compression. I started this engin by hand a total of 3 times and it was a real bear to get over the compression stroke. 1 time it threw me down to the floor because the 1 way dog was still engaged. That is with 2 hands on the handle ,wide foot stance and my wife moving the exhaust lever. After that I made the hydraulic starter.
12 volt hydraulic pump runs a hydraulic cylinder and a hydraulic motor
yes it will crank over the compression
special made pump (SPI I think), Witt hydraulic motor, Surplus Center cylinder,16.5 " tire, a log splitter controll valve plumbed backwards and the drain back to tank connected the hyd. motor.
When the cylinder extends,putting the pressure on the tire and flywheel the controll lever returns to center position and the tire stays engaged with the flywheel. After the engin starts I move the lever the other way and the cylinder retracts keeping the tire turning while retracting away from the flywheel.
I have been using this system for 4 years now no problems.
Rember I have a 16/1 which has alot of compression. I started this engin by hand a total of 3 times and it was a real bear to get over the compression stroke. 1 time it threw me down to the floor because the 1 way dog was still engaged. That is with 2 hands on the handle ,wide foot stance and my wife moving the exhaust lever. After that I made the hydraulic starter.
6
General Discussion / Re: Adding Citronella oil/tiki torch oil to fuel
« on: February 22, 2013, 01:01:31 AM »
I had some old Citronella in a shed, I tryed it and did not smell anything/ I had no problem burning a small amount
Bob F
Bob F
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General Discussion / Re: where is everybody from?
« on: February 22, 2013, 12:56:07 AM »
Mike 90045
What kind of info would you like?
I have 1 photo in the lister engin forum pics.
Just search for hydraulic starter
should come up
Bob F
What kind of info would you like?
I have 1 photo in the lister engin forum pics.
Just search for hydraulic starter
should come up
Bob F
8
Lister Based Generators / Re: odd slobber
« on: February 05, 2013, 01:58:30 AM »
I have a Metro 16/1, My engin leaked in the same place. I believe it was comming from the Head gasket. When my head gasket finally went, I removed the head and found high spots. I flat filed the high spots off, installed a new head gasket and tightened the head nuts using 11/4 inch socket and a 3 foot pipe. I let the engin run up to normal tempture (with coolant) and retightened the head nuts again I got about an 1/8 of a turn more. The bad head gasket was putting pressure into the water jacket. I may have had more pressure because my engin has a water pump. After changing the head gasket the slobber has not come back yet.
The longer stud is ok because this is where Metro used an eye bolt ( for lifting I guess). It screws onto the stud. My engin had the eye bolt attached when I bought it(new in the crate). The only thing I used the eye bolt for was to help stablize it while moving it
If/When you remove the head check your water jacket ports (some of mine were 3/4 clogged with flash from the casting.
You could also see that the head gasket and the ports do not align correctly, this makes it very eazy to get a leak.
The longer stud is ok because this is where Metro used an eye bolt ( for lifting I guess). It screws onto the stud. My engin had the eye bolt attached when I bought it(new in the crate). The only thing I used the eye bolt for was to help stablize it while moving it
If/When you remove the head check your water jacket ports (some of mine were 3/4 clogged with flash from the casting.
You could also see that the head gasket and the ports do not align correctly, this makes it very eazy to get a leak.
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Listeroid Engines / Re: No change over (compression) Valves
« on: November 09, 2012, 01:05:26 AM »
I run a 16/1 there is no change over valve or plug. I have started the engin in 3 degrees F. I use a propain torch moving rapidly over the intake and high pressure line. Just enough to warm not hot and the engin starts 1st time every time.
hope this helps
bob f
hope this helps
bob f
10
Lister Based Generators / Re: Help for 6/1 foundation
« on: October 04, 2012, 01:20:16 AM »
I have my motor and generator mounted on 1 frame. I mounted the frame to special vibration dampers ( I purchased from a special vigration isolation company for very little money)bolted to the cement floor. To absorb all the vibration and thumping the total frame can move 1 inch up and down. This I see when first starting and also when shutting it down This has been working very well for 4 years. There is no rocking side to side It does not shake any thing unlike before when the frame was bolted down to the cement(which is 2 feet thick and rebar ) directly and I was shaking my hole neiborhood. Oh the engin is a 16/1 thumper.
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Generators / Re: Battery bank
« on: April 23, 2012, 02:19:34 AM »
Hi not sure if Magnum are available in France. I use a Magnum inverter charger on 48 volts. These are around $2000 here in the states. It makes a true sign wave and and can put out 240volts at 83 amps They are fully programable for every type of battery, ideal for the Agm and every situation. Just program it from the manufactures specs, also has a battery temp sensor. I believe the maximum charging is 60 amps thou. I only charge at 30 amps. It has a searching mode, if nothing is on it makes the inverter go to sleep saving big time on batteries. With an amp shunt you can see how many amps you have taken off of the batteries and how many amps you have put back in, add 10 percent more for losses. This unit charges batteries and inverts all the same time, it monitors the electric going to your house. Your program tells the charger when to cut back on charging and give more power to the house. It has 4 stages of charging, 1 being a equalizer or a desulsifier.
With batteries it not good to take of more than 20% of a full charge, this hurts a battery taking some of the life out of the battery.
48 volts is the best way for the dc amps to ac amps loss.
My wife and I love the Magnum inverter/charger, and as you can see highly recommend it.
With batteries it not good to take of more than 20% of a full charge, this hurts a battery taking some of the life out of the battery.
48 volts is the best way for the dc amps to ac amps loss.
My wife and I love the Magnum inverter/charger, and as you can see highly recommend it.
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Listeroid Engines / Re: Whooopppeeee - Clones have arrived
« on: October 10, 2011, 03:00:02 PM »
also make sure you turn down the speed for first test.
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Listeroid Engines / Re: Whooopppeeee - Clones have arrived
« on: October 10, 2011, 02:58:37 PM »
Hi billyrob looks good the engin hoist should work on the head studs and a sling around the crank shaft .just to help take a little of the weight . Rember to check for sand and I would not start it even for a short test with no water connected.
just my 2 cents worth
just my 2 cents worth
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Everything else / Re: How to remove bolts / studs some different ways
« on: September 12, 2011, 11:25:47 PM »
I have used a backward twist drill with some and have had good luck. When you drill you take some of the pressure off of the threads. The backward drill is trying to loosen as you drill not tighten more, and when the drill reaches the end of the broken bolt it gets caught and starts to unscrew the broken bolt. This and a good penetrating oil works 70 percent of the time.
Heat also works, but you need to use a lot of caution of what your heating.
Heat also works, but you need to use a lot of caution of what your heating.