Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Tijean

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 14
1
Listeroid Engines / Re: re-phase a CS style 2 cylinder engine?
« on: February 04, 2012, 08:43:31 PM »
I think the explanation for the sound of the twin is a bit trickier.  On the upright twin the crank throws are offset 180 degrees for balance reasons. Being 4 stroke cycle each cylinder fires once every two revolutions or once every 720 degrees. Thus you will have total of two ignitions every 720 degrees.
Being offset 180 degrees the second cylinder must fire either 180 degrees afterward or 180 + 360 = 540deg afterward depending on which cylinder you consider to be first firing. The other way of seeing it is ignition, pause 540 deg, ignition then pause 180 and repeat. The resulting pp, pp.......... pp, pp,  has the same cadence as a single. Only it were two stroke cycle could the power pulses come evenly 360 degrees apart and give us a pup, pup, pup!

Frank

2
Lister Based Generators / Re: Adjusting RPM in a Listeroid
« on: April 10, 2011, 01:05:46 AM »
If you are getting 80 cps now, make sure that you dont drive it even higher. There is danger of throwing off the field pieces of the rotor if you overspeed it. I think there was a very similar thread where the procedure was described to troubleshoot governor. Check this link or do a search on "stuck governor" if the link does not take you there.

http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=5276.0 

3
Listeroid Engines / Re: 24/2 Lister Coolant Manifold Leaking
« on: April 09, 2011, 05:07:26 PM »
The flanges are threaded british straight pipe thread unlike  north american tapered pipe thread. A total abomination wherever I have encountered them. Lots of teflon tape on a npt nipple is a common fix but it does not make a mechanically strong connection. J&B weld (metal filled epoxy) is another gap filler for this. 1 1/4 npt would be the next larger standard size but as you suggest there likely will not be enough material. A tap that size is not in everyones tool box either. I would fab them from 1/2 carbon steel plate and either weld in female coupling halfs or a suitable sized barbed nipple.

4
Listeroid Engines / Re: Generator size for Listeroid
« on: April 02, 2011, 12:21:39 AM »
With the larger generator you do not have to worry about overloading or balancing loads on each leg if you are set up for 120/240

5
I think the force of gravity is all that seats the balls. The seats in the pump body appeared to have ridges like you get when interrupting a cut with a tool so I lapped them in. The balls were rather irregular and I found some close enough in size and much rounder, from a scrap ball bearing. The seal had about a third of the lip forced the wrong way; I will change that out when I have the engine down to install hollow dipper and un-grooved upper half style rod bearing shells.

There are a few similar "lack of fine tuning" details that probably typical of many off shore products.

6
Engines / Re: Making a New Lister
« on: March 21, 2011, 07:24:13 PM »
Just kicking this topic to the top. A similar line of thought is ongoing.

7
I built up with weld material and machined the idler eccentric. Got lazy and just put a .035 thick shim under one jaw in the three jaw chuck. That gave me somewhat larger than that amount of actual offset but did not measure it. Some fellows have made a two piece idler with both parts eccentric to be variable but I worry a bit about rigidity. Actually would like to see larger than the 1/2 inch diameter existing. I think the bronze might take the shock better than cast iron teeth but that is just my feeling. You can spend a fair bit of time taking off the burrs and nicks from both crank and cam gears and polishing them up a bit to save a lot of iniatial wear and tear on break in.

8
Lots of territory to cover; on the backlash; you have to take a number of readings as the bore in the idler may not be concentric. One I saw appeared to be broached rather than turned. You also have to consider what the lash is between idler and cam. It may be considerably different than between crank gear and idler. The power pulses are severe compared to a multi cyl. engine so the less slack in the gear train the less hammering that gets concentrated on the same few teeth on crank and cam gear. Gear train hammer is exponential so reducing clearance by half is a huge benefit. Either here or on Listerengine.com there is instructions to make an adjustable jig to measure exactly how much offset you need on the idler. Minimal clearance makes a big difference in how quiet you can make the engine as well as expected life of drive train and perhaps lead away from camshaft breakage that has been seen.

As long as cylinder liner projection is even and not too great, the head gasket should simultaneously squash seal to both the liner and the adjacent head surface so there is no need to attempt to seal the liner to block gap. For the O rings lube I used dish soap but I suspect KY jelly would be dickety poo as well,  :D

If that unit has an oil pump I would recommend removing every line and ream the ends as it appears they were cut with a saw and lots of metal flash ready to let go where it should not. Seats in oil pump need work to make pump even halfways self priming. The valve rockers can likely use some alignment tweaking and resurfacing of the tips of the rocker arms.

The honing and piston fit were beautiful in mine. Ring gap was almost too tight by the .003 per inch dia. rule of thumb. If you are not in a hurry pulling it entirely apart and refitting things can be pleasant and even worth a few laughs.

9
Listeroid Engines / Re: new
« on: March 18, 2011, 10:52:24 PM »
Nah, I dont think you upset anyone. Complete new engines dont meet the standards for importing but used ones are changing hands and parts are available.

10
Lister Based Generators / Re: new guy to weird thinking.....i think
« on: March 17, 2011, 09:38:14 PM »
I think it is impractical to try to combine the output of two generators but if you had one 8 or 10 kw. generator with a double pulley mounted between the pair of engines you could run it at 4 Kw with just one engine running and the other belt removed. Only a very small efficiency loss and you have a spare engine; put both both belts on and drive it to full output with both engines. I think somewhere on the web there is even a picture of such a setup. That should be a double strength chick magnet.

11
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lovson 20-2
« on: March 15, 2011, 04:10:16 PM »
My engine is supposed to be counterweighted opposite the throws to correct for piston and rod weight and the flywheels then are supposedly each a balanced disc. It did a fair bit of rock and roll so I tried some weights in line with and also opposite crank throw but that did not seem to be obvious cure.

I took the flywheels off and machined a pair of plates to fit the bore and hold a 3/4 inch shaft for a pair of pillow block ball bearings so it could freely rotate. Obviously they were not balanced though someone had drilled a bunch of holes in the sides of the rims. Hither thither and yon; there seemed no their logic to the location of the holes unless it was a Ouiga board! I split the weights so half was outside and half inside.  Probably about 4 0z. on each wheel to get static balance and that ran acceptably.

The unbalance factor was near 180 deg off from the opposite side so it gave a rocking motion which is deceiving. I could go back now and try adding some weight in line with the crank throw to vary the bias toward vertical or horizontal but the engine is bolted to 5 tons(  ;) ) of concrete so that clouds the issue of detecting precise balance anyways. It can be frustrating if you have no way of getting even approximate location or amount of weight needed or even which side needs it. Uneven balance side to side is not so easy to diagnose and tame.

12
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Cooling system capacity
« on: March 15, 2011, 03:39:52 PM »
I put the fan switch on the lower return hose so it comes on about 120 F. That keeps the engine from being shocked with cold water as the thermostat cycles.

13
Listeroid Engines / Re: 3" dipper
« on: March 14, 2011, 09:28:42 PM »
The stock thread is 5/16 Whitworth. The minor diameter at the base of the threads is not very large; after a hole is drilled through it there is not a whole lot of material left. I chose to tap the hole in the cap to 3/8 UN fine thread so I could use a standard (in Canada) grade 5 bolt but I am not concerned at all about keeping a Listeroid original.  I have not got around to doing the install yet; I was overtaken by cold weather and the lack of any urgency to fix something that was not really broken (minor flaw in con rod forging)

14
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: re starting
« on: March 13, 2011, 12:09:36 PM »
Stan, I think the pull down is the better treatment too. No doubt the water mist / steam treatment will clear the combustion chamber and piston top but if it leaves the ring grooves carbon packed it does not address a very major concern. I have heard the stories about the loud noises when chunks of solid deposits break off and get crushed in the squish area.

15
General Discussion / Re: NOT ENGINE RELATED
« on: March 01, 2011, 09:21:52 PM »
Dave, just food for thought as you pass judgment on the advice given; sometimes a friend is the person who will tell you what you don't want to hear.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 14