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Messages - rosietheriviter

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Waste Motor Oil / Re: WMO burners: How many KWH per gallon?
« on: October 06, 2010, 11:53:23 PM »
right at 10kwatt hours burning a mix of 50/50 (15/40 and pump diesel)
in a S195 idi changfa

and i think it is possible to get to 11kwatt hours per gallon under specific conditions
in a very well setup unit optimized to to burn wmo in higher ratio's of oil

bob g
Are you saying 11KWHrs/gal of the mix or per gallon of  WMO?


Engines / Re: Piston question, and other mysteries
« on: November 16, 2007, 09:57:23 PM »

The first Honda motorcycle engine I stripped out to repair a broken gearbox really amazed me.  I took great care in dismantling then found that the design allowed nothing to be put back in the wrong position.  I was real impressed with those Japanese!!!  Almost idiot proof. 
Regards, RAB

Yes, RAB -

My brother raced a Honda 305 back in the early 60's and I watched him work on his Honda several times out of curiosity.   I agree with you 99.9 percent!

The only exception being - the 4 speed transmissions were able to be assembled incorrectly allowing a much smoother transition between ratios.  Example - 1st gear = 20 to 1 reduction, 2nd gear = 12 to 1 reduction, 3rd gear = 4 to 1 reduction and 4th gear = 2 to 1 reduction from the factory.  Swapping one gear from the 1st-2nd shaft with one from the 3rd-4th shaft resulted in a 20 to 1 1st gear, 15 to 1 2nd gear, 10 to 1 3rd gear, and 2 to 1 4th gear reductions resulting in a much more control for racing applications.

These numbers are not necessarily accurate but the concept is


Generators / Re: Single phase generator alternator
« on: October 14, 2007, 02:09:51 PM »
I'll be off-line for the next 30 days but hope to see more information when I return.

See ya'll around 11/15/07

Rose is Rose

Generators / Re: Single phase generator alternator
« on: October 07, 2007, 12:20:24 PM »

to answer part of your question, yes it will weld, but at reduced open circuit voltage and a marked reduction in current
the engine being a gasoline unit does not have a flat a torque curve as a diesel, so the hp falls off rather quickly however.
we can determine from its 10k AC generator section, that it has enough power to provide for approx 10kwatt of power
so i would expect that it will weld up to about 333 amps at 30 volts in theory, but likely it will be well below that
but i would think it would still do a couple of hundred amps anyway
not many folks have a need to go much over 150amps anyway, unless you are welding with some heavy rod on some really heavy plate.
with the twin, if it is an onan,, i doubt it would ever get up to 350amps anyway,,
most of the onan twins were put on 225amp machines and ran at full rpm to do that as well.
to do 350amps real well would require about 25 to 30hp in my opinion
i have a small miller 1E that is about 40 years old, it has a single cylinder kohler 12hp and does 160amps tops
it is a dual rpm setup 1800 for AC generation 3500watts, and 3600rpm for welding
it will weld at 1800 but at a dramatically reduced ampacity and lower open circuit voltage, which makes striking the arc
i gotta ask,, what do you plan on welding that would require that much ampacity?
bob g

Thank you, Bob. 

That sounds logical to me, just looking for an educated opinion.   The machine is rated at 20 hp, some 46 amps @ 220 VAC @1800 RPM.
I'll just disable the 2300 RPM throttle adjustment, leaving the 1800 RPM setting. My "fix" will be reversable, so trying will lose nothing but some time.

Striking an arc, that is no real big problem for me, Daddy taught me how to weld by using his old rod stubs and with rod that had the coating damaged or missing. 
It was a real treat when he let me use "new" rod.

I do not expect to do much welding at all.  I have never welded at settings above 125 amps except when Daddy showed me how to run 3/16" E7028 in a flat position only.  Seems like it was around 375 amps or so and the welded metal warped very badly if it were not welded or clamped in position.

My personal choice is 3/32" E7014 at around 75 amps - makes an extremely pretty weld.  I use 3/32" (80 amps)or 1/8" (110 amps) E7018 for some "out of position"or E6010 for some "dirty metal" welding.


Generators / Re: Single phase generator alternator
« on: October 07, 2007, 12:03:20 PM »
I think thats a CCK engine ( opposed twin? )
Can't tell you anything about the welder.
The engine probably has a tappered shaft.
CK and CCK are great engines, a diesel DJ series will bolt up but also needs a taper shaft.

Thank you, Doug. 
That is great information for me. 
The CCK is supposedly an"improved" version of the CW but without access to manuals (I've searched extensively), that is academic.

Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: r195 changfa lowest speed
« on: October 07, 2007, 11:52:23 AM »
You mean I'm the only one that sees the other post  ::)
Sort of posting in the direction of the previous posts. Sorry if this causes confusion.

Ya mean a one-sided conversation?


Generators / Single phase generator alternator
« on: October 05, 2007, 04:17:40 PM »
I have an Onan welder/generator model CW251-C, 220V 10KW generator, 350 amp 78VDC welder that was manufactured in 1956.  I originally thought it was a Koehler, but I was mistaken.  Runs like a top, 2 cylinder, air-cooled, gasoline powered, 30+PSI oil pressure, 90PSI compression.

I inquired some time back about my concerns over the starting circuit being Positive Ground, but have since put that part out of my mind.  The starting circuit is not even needed - the engine uses a magneto and has a 6 volt starter.

My questions now are about the generator and alternator. 
The alternator is close coupled to the engine and when the gen/weld selector switch is in "power" mode the engine runs at 1800 RPM.  Voltage and frequency are a product of RPM and are not regulated otherwise on this unit.  4 pole with 2 slip rings.

The generator is on the same shaft (one piece shaft) and when in "weld" mode, increases the throttle (governor) setting to 2300 RPM giving a rated output of 350 DC Amps with an open circuit max of 78 volts.

It has a fairly small bridge rectifier, a fairly large transformer and 3 coils that are maybe one inch in diameter - 6-8 inches long with one connection on each end.  The weld/power switch closes two contacts that go to or from the welding control reostat.

My biggest question is - since the unit welds AND will generate 110+ and/or 220+ volts AC (simultanously), without the battery installed, one of the rotating devices must be magnetically excited?  Should I be able to tell if one of the components attract steel (magnetic)?

Does any one know or willing to venture a guess as to whether welding at 1800 RPM (rather than 2300 RPM) will result in a lower than otherwise expected voltage, amperage, or both?  Or is it more likely that the 2300 RPM is required only for the increased power output from the engine?

I fully intend to convert to an 1800 RPM diesel when I get a chance if the above questions can be resolved.

I think I can send pictures of the unit and of the individual components if that would help answer  the question.

Thanks in advance,


Bio-diesel Fuel / Re: How much does biodiesel cost and where can I get it?
« on: September 24, 2007, 07:03:51 PM »
I bought some methanol Sunday, and I'm on the hunt for some fresh Lye today....
I want to see what this Mc-diesel thing is all about myself

Hi Doug,

I have absolutely no idea how much you have researched the subject but for the very best way (in my opinion) to get started is by following the instructions  here http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/719605551/m/857600061/p/1.  20 or so pages of information.

If your attempt is as a complete novice, the 2 liter method described above with NEW vegetable oil will teach you all of the very basic procedures.

Journey to forever also has some very interesting information, but many question the validity of the instructions found there.  If you are interested I can supply another dozen or more links on homebrewed biodiesel.

Whatever you do and whatever you determine, please keep us informed - as I am sure you will.

Rose is Rose

Straight Vegetable Oil / Re: Jatropha curcushas : plant to diesel fuel
« on: September 22, 2007, 04:08:01 PM »
Of course, nearly all parts of plant are posion, and it's banned in Australia 
planted around our listers, it would function as well as barbed wire fence.
 I wonder if it likes frost ??


The Jatropha is NOT frost hardy.

Rose is Rose

Engines / Re: How to polish the connecting rod journal?
« on: September 22, 2007, 12:49:26 AM »
You already know the answer to your question about rod bolts. Use new ones of known good quality. However, there are so many different types and applications of rod bolts that it would be the subject of a 5 year thesis.
I suspect the Listeroid has the type that can be used over and over again. Think about this for a sec, they use cotter pins. Just how much torque/stretch did you apply? I thought so. I also believe that the Listeroid rod bolt loading is very low, even with cast iron pistons running 1000 RPM.

Chris, rcavictim, and Doug,

I was told by an extremely qualified mechanic (my daddy) that ALL bolts will stretch when torqued.  The higher the quality the bolt, the less stretch remaining after removing.

Lots of high power machinery have their bolts tightened by measuring the free length and then tightened to the specified length (stretched length).

If you are interested, you might try setting a dial indicator on the top or a head bolt and see how much stretch occurs when you torque to the appropriate value.

Rose is Rose

Engines / Re: The project begins
« on: September 20, 2007, 03:53:19 AM »
there is an odd thing i learned years ago
if you simply add some clean water on top of the piston and let it set overnight, it will soften the rust
and you can carefully work the crank back and forth and work it free.
this lesson was taught to me by an old timer junk yard guy, that had unstuck many a rusted engine in this manner.
bob g

Hi bob,

Some of the engines I worked on in my younger days had "rust siezed" engines.  Daddy always told me to add #2 fuel oil "diesel" and allow them to soak.

Water should be just as good, I would think, but the oil could be allowed to remain for nearly as long as you would like with no adverse effects.

I personally think water is a good solution for many problems.  When washing parts, soap and water are one of the very best cleaners.


Generators / Re: STC Generator as Electric Motor.
« on: August 14, 2007, 02:36:04 AM »
Bob, its a single phase machine on a single phase line. There is no rotation of any kind to grab onto.

Am I missing something here?  Are you saying that the alternator in question is, in fact,  a single phase?

Hello DIYer,
I have a Changfa Generator with 3-phase STC-12KW alternator.

Or are you saying that "in spite of the fact that it is a three phase - it will function as a single phase" because of??

Rose is Rose

Generators / Re: Genset starting circuit, help?
« on: August 09, 2007, 10:48:19 PM »
Hi there one more update for rose ;)
For the grounding rod talk first to a electrician because the dept is depending on your soil water conditions.
Maybe you need three installed or you can use your well.

Keep grounding separated from lightning protection ( i wash disconnecting the wind gen by the first hit, and it sparked out the arrestors/ spark caps )
 and if you are free from the grid keep your ground floating not connected to the generator ( for same reason there is always a leak eating your metal).
Greetings from greece

Thank you, Petrako!

I have come to the conclusion that my best course of action will be to install a water storage tank (along with my small doughboy pool) for water storage and use the generator to run a separate pump for domestic (not potable) water and for fire protection.

Would it be safe to ground the generator to my grid grounding rod?

No one for miles around has lightning protection.  We all are in a heavily forested area, lots of tall trees, many in excess of one hundred feet tall.

Rose is Rose.

Generators / Re: Genset starting circuit, help?
« on: August 05, 2007, 08:48:06 PM »
I thought that NASA civilian space program was 100% public by legislation. What an absurd time. Material that is obvious and public, and of course already long ago copied into Russian and, well, everybody else's records, is then made "classified" after the fact. What BS! Horse has left the barn...
Only tiny details can be kept really secret - and they seldom matter, imho.

NASA is an entirely owned and controlled U.S. Government agency.

Endeavour construction began BEFORE a contract was awarded - a doubt many companies would began a project before official contract unless the government was involved.

I left my position in the aerospace industry because of my moral indignation over the misrepresentations, waste, graft and corruption between the U.S. government and the contractors and the lies told to the public.  'Course, my age had a little to do with it also.  Had I been penniless and no prospects for other employment, I suppose there might have been a difference but I like to think not.

Rose is on her motorcycle.

Generators / Re: Genset starting circuit, help?
« on: August 05, 2007, 04:04:45 PM »
Durn it.

I meant to add more to the message but sent it before I was ready.  I don't have alzheimers, but I think I'm getting somezheimers.

Many aspects of the Voyager and shuttle projects were and are subject to non-disclosure agreements and a few aspects are actually classified.  Can ya believe that?

My involvement was fairly drab but I saw a lot of parts and pieces and was always amazed at the massive amounts of money spent to do some of the simplest jobs.

JPL relied on many subcontractors as did Rockwell.  My involvement with the Endeavor project ended with the rollout at Palmdale CA before transport to NASA per se.  That is, no boosters, no main tank, etc.

Rose is Rose

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