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Messages - kltrider

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1
Engines / Re: Oil cooling for Listeroids?
« on: July 28, 2007, 02:52:24 PM »
Sorry folks, been out of touch for a couple weeks while on a job inverview and a little R&R. I didn't mean to start a brawl, oops, "lively discussion," over this. It was just a thought I had, based on the Deutz' use of the oil in pasages around the cylinders and head. Since that's what they're designed for, it would seem that is how they get away with it.   

2
Everything else / Re: Genset shed ideas needed
« on: June 25, 2007, 04:15:28 PM »
CUJET:
I recommend a 10 foot container for your needs. This is based on my use of a similar unit, only 20 feet in that case. If you need to sound proof it, rock wool panels inside with a dead air space between them and the container walls will do wonders. I have no interest, financial or otherwise in this company, other than as a very satisfied customer.
http://affordablespacetrailers.com/
Also, If you don't want to go to Orlando, Armelini Trucking here in Palm City has some containers to sell. Again, no financial interest, etc.
I used a 20 footer that I purchased with a damaged floor to build my services and utilities space on the farm in Alabama where I hope to retire in a few years. Removed the remains of the wood, poured the floor with concrete and added the mounts for generator and engine bases, water heater and pumps, heat exchanger and solar controller with panels on the roof. 6 fork lift batteries in the closed end with venting and air management as needed. 15 feet away with a 3.9 liter cummins running at 30KW / 1800RPM all you hear is a light hum and guiet rumble.

3
Jens:
Off topic, I know but I'm curious. You said the inspector told you he was getting in trouble about allowing heat pumps in the "snooty" area. Does the definition of "heat pump" where you are differ from the meaning of "heat pump" here in Florida where I live? Here it is an air conditioner just like any other, as far as appearances are concerned, differences are all inside. Can it be that it runs in the cold weather the same as in hot, with a different path for heat and cool? I'm really curious because heat pumps are, as far as I know, universally regarded as far more efficient. Here, in Florida, we are requested to use appliances that are as efficient as possible. Due to the growth of the population and continued building the electric utilities sometimes cannot keep up with demand, so any lessening of the peak loads is desired.
Comment please, I really want to know.

4
Generators / Re: gen head
« on: June 17, 2007, 05:21:50 AM »
My 6/1, Rene' will get a 5Kw next weekend. Providing the seller in Georgia still has one.

5
Changfa Engines / Re: Weichai 1115, 25hp Changfa-type
« on: June 15, 2007, 03:12:52 PM »
Just my 2cents. It seems to me the most typical type of reactive muffler on the automotive market today appears to be the "Flowmaster." I've got a pair of the stainless steel ones on my "delivery tuck." A 1990 Isuzu tilt cab with a 500 "cubit ench" Cadillac V8. They work well, and really calm down the sound.

6
Engines / Re: Rene' up and running.
« on: June 15, 2007, 01:05:24 AM »
Used 1.75 gallons of red dyed #2 diesel in 8HRS. at 645RPM, full rack travel after 15 minutes start-up/warn-up. Still using the compressor for a lpad since I can regulate the load so easily. Oil used was about a pint, with some in the exhaust, just a hint of a blue tinge. Best results on compression was all the way in, calculated to be 18.5/1 with     .075 head clearance. I'll run the same again until Sunday, with a partial teardown on Monday. I did see some clag on the magnet after shut down, so I'll change oil in the afternoon when I shut down.
Every kid in the neighborhood was here at some time today, and most of them brought there children with them. 

7
Engines / Rene' up and running.
« on: June 14, 2007, 05:25:03 PM »
Got laid off the other night so I had some time to assemble my 6/1. As I mentioned in another thread, I bought this from an old farmer in Alabama. It was in parts and had no ID. Every thing was there and packed with spares. He said he bought this engine to run his milking barn because the cows weren't frightened of the noise. He had one before this and it quit suddenly, so he needed to replace it, and did so with a Coleman, which scarred the cows. It took him so long to get this engine that he had an electrician connect the barn to the grid. When he retired he sold everything from the farm, then sold the farm.
She started on the 4th attempt of about 5 revolutions each try. Settled down to a nice steady 650 RPM after I fiddled with the governor. It was running a little fast at first. First run about 10 minutes to set the Gov. Shut down, cleaned magnet in the sump, and checked oil level.
Started again, 5 turns of the flywheel, dropped the exhaust vavle and lit off. I used a large compressor for a brake-in load and ran 6 HRS.
I itend to do a thorough check over today.
Wayne. 

8
I agree with 'tater. The "best way" (in quotes because the best way IMHO may not be the best way for anyone else) if you are only going to run a 6/1 is to run it as a battery charger for a HUGE battery pack. Then run a system of inverters to actually power the shop. This way the 'loid will only need to work at it's maximum effort, not try to keep up with a super large demand that it cannot handle. Stack a set of Outback inverters, and use the matching transformer between them. That way the batteries act as an accumulator and supply the load. THIS AIN'T CHEAP. Your alternative is a larger engine / bigger genny and more fuel. Don't forget also, a bigger engine running under lower load will be much less efficient than a smaller one. Run the 6/1 all the time you work, with an auto shut down when the batteries are fully charged.
Just my tup'ence. Wayne.

9
Listeroid Engines / Re: How to autostart a CS 6/1?
« on: June 14, 2007, 04:50:05 PM »
Snail/Brian:
I used to race a BA/FC. That is a supercharged alcohol burning "funny car" in UDRA sanctioned drag racing. 572 cubic inch Chrysler Hemi v8 at 15/1 compression, with an 8-71 GMC style blower. One of the rules in that class was there must be an on-board starter. I used a stock, off the shelf, starter from Summit (Racing or Auto Parts, not sure which, but on the web) intended for a 440 Plymouth. Cranked that hummer right up to 25, 30 RPM no sweat against 32 degrees of magneto advance. Worked great.
Best of luck, Wayne.

10
Lister Based Generators / Re: Belleghuan 12/2
« on: June 14, 2007, 04:21:40 AM »
Tugger:
That is a Class Act!!!!! I especially like the fence and lifting beam set-up! Real sweet.
Just one question though?
Shouldn't the water pipes berunning at an upwards slant to the tank?
AND NO, I DO NOT WANT TO START A WAR ABOUT COOLING SYSTEMS!!!!
I'm not asking anything, I'm just asking.

11
Generators / Re: Magnetic Clutch???
« on: May 15, 2007, 07:07:21 PM »
Hey troops:
Here's a thought for you all to ponder; I own a Kubota 3100E tractor.  3 cylinder, 22 HP. It has a magnetic clutch on the front of the crankshaft used to drive a belly mounted 48 inch rough cut mower. This has 3 18 inch blades, and will stall the engine if there is too much power demanded. I have engaged it at full throttle and stalled also. This will easilly handle a 5KW or even, probably 10KW, genny. My B6000E Kubby also has a clutch like this, same P/N, and drives a 4000 watt DC genny I used to start the dragster. It would really load the tractor engine, but that one was a small 2 cylinder. I used the generator along with the battery pack, because sometimes I needed to motor the J79 for a short time to cool after a hot start, and this would deplete the batteries below the level I wanted. 
Yes, I think this would connect either a genny, or a starter.
Just my 3.7 cents, Wayne

12
Generators / Re: ST-5 ? and Leece Neville ?
« on: May 13, 2007, 07:11:16 PM »
Folks:
This is in response to an E-mail I got 2 days ago with a ctitique of some things I wrote earlier, and this gives me a chance to answer this as well as provide some thoughts as they pertain to this thread.
I've got a L/N 24 volt alternator spec'd for a  Kenworth wrecker. New, never installed, bought freight salvage. This unit weighs almost 25 pounds. The interesting thing to me is that it is intended to use an external regulator, thus has none internally.
This makes it ideal for "our" purposes. I'm setting up the 3 cylinder Deutz 2011 I got recently, with a 15KW ST head driven by a shaft from a stubshaft to flywheel adapter by Hayes Mfg. aided by a short telescoping shaft. This allows room on the genny shaft end for a pulley (sheave) of 6 to 8 inches diameter. At 1800 RPM for 60CPS, I want to drive the L/N at no more that 4000 RPM to extend the life of the bearings, and cut down on the losses from belts ETC.
The part that holds my  interest here is the chart published by Prestolite giving output VS rotor speed. Within the spec sheet for this unit we laso note that the Maximum, Never Exceed, Redline, Blue Limit, "Cap'n, She's Gonna Blow," Kaboom into small pieces speed is 8000. (OK, so I'm dramatic and a Star Trek Fan.)
The point of all this is, Whenever you can, take pains to read and understand the specs of the parts you are using. Automobile alternators are the greatest things invented, BUT they were intended for use in cars where most of the time they were at or near engine idle speed. You know, Police cars. They, along with Taxis drove the developement of these things.  Truck engines, on the other hand run more slowly, spend less time proportionately at idle and are heavier duty all around. They are also, with the better quatiry units such as those intended for emergency vehicle use, more frequently equiped with external regulators, externally mounted diode packs, (rectifiers) and are usually rated for a higher duty cycle and speeds nearer those WE USE.
Now, for most of us, weight isn't an issue. Well, for our engines anyway. (A full race aluminum Listeroid with a magnesium ST15 head? Never happen.) I'll be using the heavier, easier to work with, probably older and in my opinion, more adaptable technologies. This doesen't mean I'll be ignoring the latest tech when it comes around, but I'll look carefully at it and what it replaces before changing things. 
In closing this rant, I spent most of last week with my friend Michaels family, clelbrating his 80th birthday, and GENTLY pumping him for every scrap of info about balance I could. He is an 80 year old, opinionated broken eglish speaking Cuban, who knows more about engine machining than any 15 people I can name, and I learned a lot. Look for a lengthy post or series of posts in the next few days.
Best to All and "Please give my love to your Mother." (Quote: Kevin Kitchens, local radio celeb, deceased.) Wayne.

13
Generators / Re: ST-5 ? and Leece Neville ?
« on: May 12, 2007, 08:47:50 PM »
XYZER:
I use tons of Leece-Neville (Prestolite) units. Most commonly 24 volt units with Balmar regulators. The Bi-Directional is correct for the alternator, itself. Generally it'll spin and work either way.
HOWEVER, the fan on the unit may be either CW, CCW, or on some models, Bi-Rotational. IMHO, never use a Bi-rotational fan, as they will pump air either direction, but no-where nearly as well as either of the other ones. Generally speaking, you choose the fan and pulley (Sheave?) to fit your needs.
Incidently, I don't use many alternator mounted fans. I use in-line ventilator fans made for marine use and a small controller circuit allowing cooling after shut down.
My 2 cents, No financial yada yada, etc.   

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FWIW: I'm building my 6/1, Rene, to investigate this system, and will be negotiating with Mr. Crower for an R&D liscense in the future. Plans also call for a flywheel mounted homopolar generator and inverter on this engine.
Wayne.

15
Listeroid Engines / Re: How to lift a Listeroid?
« on: May 03, 2007, 07:07:12 PM »
Fred: Very nice.
On a different note, If I remember correctly, you use Outback inverters, Yes? If so do they run a reverse osmosis water system? The makers of my system tell me not to use an inverter for this purpose. I'm trying to figure out why. They won't tell me the answer, so I'm looking for variables to figure out why.
Thanks, Wayne.

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