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Messages - Rod

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1
Listeroid Engines / Re: Muffler for Listeroid?
« on: April 04, 2007, 11:53:54 AM »
Dave
   What I got is a NAPA 18130  It's 6" diam. the can is 17" long, over all it's 24 1/2". Both ends are 2" ID. The way I set things up it exits the basement into the back yard, you can't hear it from beside the house, once you pass the corner & are behind the house you hear a very suttle & deep thud-thud-thud. My only worry is if it will plug up, it think they (napa) said it was for a Ford 4x4. It was in the $25 - $30 range. So far so good.
                                       Rod
BTW it's on a 16-2

2
Everything else / Re: Hydronic (underfloor hot water) Heating
« on: February 23, 2007, 02:50:33 PM »
  Dan, try this place, I know them.  http://www.heatinghelp.com/      Good luck ~  Rod

3
Listeroid Engines / Re: 14-1 Lovson camshaft timing
« on: February 19, 2007, 07:35:23 PM »
Jim, With the engine at TDC set the pump lobe at "10 o'clock"  Now the "pin" for the governor weight is pointing at the lower of the two teeth on the cam gear that will enguage the other (idler) gear. Get George"s CD from the Utterpower website - it has pictures, and tons of info you NEED, I just looked it up for you & quoted HIS info. His web site has plenty for you to read while waiting for the CD. It,s pretty much a "must have"
                           Good Luck    Rod

4
Listeroid Engines / Re: Cooling system
« on: February 19, 2007, 01:52:53 AM »
Just for your info.--  1 cubic inch of water makes 1400 cubic inches of steam, you should have a relief valve called a "pop safety" meant for residentsl steam heat, different than for hot water. It takes a very small glitch  at this rate of change to make a very big problem.  If you want heat out of the radiator you'll have to change the system a little. Check out this web-site
http://www.heatinghelp.com/ When I owned the Plumbing & Heating business I went to a few of the schools this guy (Dan) put on. He's one of the best in the country when it comes to steam heat. There's also lots of other good info there - under floor heat, etc. He's also very easy to talk to for an engeneer, he just loves heating systems!!
                                                         Rod

5
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lovson 20-2
« on: February 10, 2007, 11:16:12 AM »
 Â        Zeke,   I could be wrong, but  just a thought.  Years ago I bought a 1932 MG, like most of them it had an English Ford engine in it. My job was to collect the parts to build a '32 MG engine (they were ovrehaed cam, weirdest set-up you ever saw). I ended up making a flywheel and was able to find a new Ring Gear.
 Â                   The point of the story is  -   The Ring Gear is a "shrink fit" which I think most are. I of course don't have any idea about yours, but I bet it makes a difference if it is, and you don't.
 Â                    BTW if I were building a new house I would have a "Masonary Stove" sometimes known as Russian Stove put in. I may have spelled it wrong, but look it up. If you have wood you can't beat it for cost of heat.
 Â        Rod

6
Everything else / Re: Hydronic (underfloor hot water) Heating
« on: February 09, 2007, 02:54:13 PM »
    Stan, It's too bad you don't live around here, I was born into the plumbing & heating business. If your doing a multi-room house you need to do a "heat loss" for each seperate room in order to get even heat throughout the house whether or not you build seperate zones. The floor heat is by far the cheapest to run and the most comfortable but it takes all day to make a 10* temp change so if you don't have the right footage in a room it's either gonna be too cool or to hot and impossible to ballance. What you need is an I.B.R. manual to do the heat loss, if you know a good plumbing contractor he should have one. I just loaned mine out to a guy that changing form (scorched) hot air heat to hot water. If you do it right you end up using the least material and having the most comfort. Depending on where you live you might  be able to get a Wholesaler to do the heat loss in trade for buying the material from him, this isn't something to guess about, I've seen real disasters because of someone with a little knowlage thinking he could build a system.
      A real heat loss is done with something like a big mathamatical formula using the square footage of each room, size & type of each window, weather or not there is a door in the room, the R value of the insulation in the walls the R value in the ceiling, the design temp of the water etc. when you're done, you end up with the number of BTU loss and therefore the footage of pipe for each room.
     If you google I.B.R. School you may be able to buy the book. The school was great fun, those guys have done some crazy experiments in test houses.
           Rod
         

7
Listeroid Engines / Re: Gib Key Installation???
« on: February 05, 2007, 04:19:20 PM »
Quote from: hotater on February 05, 2007, 12:53:48 AM
Rod--

Several years ago I agreed to try to teach a 'feel' skill by internet instructions and posted pictures.  Two 'classes' were done:  Welding of bolt handles and Hand Polishing of firearms.  I sent you the zip files.  You owe me a book report!  :)

     Jack, Can't thank you enough, got the files this morning. Wouldn't you know it, this computer won't support zip files. I got a new computer for Christmas with all the bells & whistles but as luck would have it it's in the shop (not mine). I just got off the phone with those guys, it'll be back this week & then I'll start the book report - Have you seen one of those Remington Hepburn "As cast kits" & what do you think?   Rod









8
Listeroid Engines / Re: Gib Key Installation???
« on: February 05, 2007, 01:10:37 PM »
    Jack:
      What are the odds of Metal Head jewelry comming up about Lister engines and ice fishing. Being new to Maine (3 years) and lucky enough to make friends with an origional Mainer, when we got ready to rig the Smelt I asked his opinion. He said we hook them through the nose opening one side to the other. This he explained draws all the other bait fish in the lake because they're jealous and "want nose rings too"!!Then with a big school of bait we can't help but draw the target fish. He must be right because we both brought fish home, one being a 5 1/2 pound bass The others being Togue ( Lake Trout) & Salmon.
                                      Rod

9
Listeroid Engines / Re: Gib Key Installation???
« on: February 04, 2007, 05:10:16 PM »
          Jack, I was curious about draw filing and a friend and myself discussed it while ice fishing Friday. The fishing went well, and we wound up holding the file the right way, but we were pulling rather than pushing.
                  What really got my attention in your last post was the mention of an on-line gunmaking class. What's the story??
    Rod

10
Listeroid Engines / Re: Possible Cracked Head
« on: February 03, 2007, 10:48:34 PM »
      Doug:
        You get an A+ in punmanship I made a quick set-up with the dial indicator. With the intake valve about 1/16" to 1/8" off the seat the keeper end of the valve has a TIR of .013" wiggle. The exhaust reads .008" with the same set-up. I bet this is the cause, now who can say for sure this would cause a cool running cyl. I think it would, but having no diesel expierence, I'm also thinking it would want to run away (extra oil = extra RPM?)
 So now I'm hoping the new head is better, other wise, I've got some silicon bronze & maybe I'll have to see if I can make some of my own. Anybody know if an art foundry would be using the right alloy for valve guides??
                                Rod

11
Listeroid Engines / Re: Possible Cracked Head
« on: February 03, 2007, 10:21:15 PM »
The heat isn't on down there, but now I've got to go check be back in 5 min.  Rod

12
Listeroid Engines / Re: Possible Cracked Head
« on: February 03, 2007, 04:08:07 PM »
    Rocketboy:
      I do believe you may have hit the nail on the head. I wondered where the oil was going from around the guides in that cyl. Being focused on the idea of a water problem & not having heard of "wet-stacknig" before having the head shaved, I never thought about it getting sucked past the valves I just kinda thought it splashed away, so I refilled it TO THE TOP. I havn't put it back together yet, been doing insulation & sheet rock. When it hit 0*F here the engine room went to 20*F, that takes the fun out of it, also makes it hard to start. Now it's a lot warmer down there & I bet it will be even quieter.
       So now you got me thinking "what's the fix" 90wt.? Seems like valve seals wood defeat the idea of valve stem lube,assuming (there's that word again) that's the reason for the oil. But, at the same time why would you oil the spring.
    Bob:
      The spray looked good, I've watched a lot of nozzles spray working on oil burners in the plumbing & heating business. That said, I wasn't look for a clean start or cutoff. So I got something to look for there.
    Mr. Flight  (what's dkw ?)
        This is for sure a not yet broken in engine. I'm trying my best to be patient & hold off on reassmbly till I digest all this input. Then I will apply all these cures, or at least do the checkouts involved and therefor end the problem on the first shot. My biggest worry is an ice storm that takes the power out. If that happens I could still have it running in an hour, well maybe two working with a flashlight.
        I ordered the oil feed dippers from xyz when they show up I'll put the steady effort into the reassembly. While the head was off, I got carried away & did another tear down just to look things over. I think this will be a good runner by Wednesday.
              Thank You All
                    Rod
       

13
Listeroid Engines / Re: The Brand Roundup
« on: February 01, 2007, 01:52:35 PM »
      Doug:
    I've got that one too, the Mahabharata is the most holy book of the Hindu, A very interesting point, that I can't see how a play could show is that the war ends with an atomic blast. I states that an iron tiped arrow (in what we call the bronze age) explodes with the light of 10,000 suns, elephants 10 miles from the point of impact were blown off their feet and burst into flames & the explosion made a cloud in the shape of a parasol. This war is supposed to have ended the last "time of man" more or less 10,000 years ago. There was a building project in India that had to be terminated because of contaminated soil in the same basic area as the war.
       I find it most curious that Oppehiemer borrowed from this book!!

14
Listeroid Engines / Re: The Brand Roundup
« on: January 31, 2007, 11:09:02 PM »
     Doug:
        Anand had an order of something going to a diesel shop in Bangor, so they just added my parts to it. It is up to me to get the parts home, but still and all I couldn't be happier. With all the bad mouthing about the Indians I hear I felt the need to give credit where cerdit is due.
         Did you ever read the Ramayana, very good book - even without anything about Lister engines!!
                    Rod
                                           

15
Listeroid Engines / Re: The Brand Roundup
« on: January 31, 2007, 10:32:46 PM »
   Taeuber:
       To be honest, I cant remember if it was in his web-site or on the CD. It's just a matter of reversing the position of the adjusting hook for the spring. First you mount the end of the spring directly to the govenor arm. Then, make up a bracket for the hook shaped adjustment thing. The bracket can mounted on the bolt (stud) that held the spring, but needs to be designed in such a way that you can use a longer spring WITHOUT any interferance. That should do it.
       With the hook on the governor arm, it swings in an arch which, as I understand it is part of the problem. By moving it to a fixed point, you remove that problem. Then all you need is the right spring. George sells a kit, you can find it in his web-sight. I just like making my own stuff, for me that's a big part of the fun.
    Good Luck
       Rod

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