Puppeteer

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Dave

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6
1
Listeroid Engines / Re: Camshaft and Crankshaft Endplay
« on: October 10, 2020, 03:45:33 PM »
Thank you much for the specifications. It will be helpful as we put this back together. I have Tapered Roller Bearings in this Powerline 24/2.

The reference to the Whitworth Torque Tables was most appreciated. Didn't know something like this existed. Very helpful.


2
Listeroid Engines / Camshaft and Crankshaft Endplay
« on: October 08, 2020, 03:54:53 PM »
Finally reassembling my 24/2 Powerline Listeroid after several years of scraping, gouging, needling and power washing sand and gook out of every nook and cranny.
Can't seem to locate torque and end play tolerances for the engine, particularly for the cam and crankshaft. Does anybody have a source for these specifications?
Much Appreciated.

Dave

3
Listeroid Engines / Re: Cylinder Painting
« on: July 05, 2011, 01:34:28 AM »
Thank you Richard. I tried some Rustoleum Hi-Temp paint. It does not have bitumen in it. But I am not using salt water for coolant. Do you think that will be okay?

4
Listeroid Engines / Re: Cylinder Painting
« on: June 29, 2011, 11:56:55 PM »
38ac,

The standout is bad and irregular across the top. Measuring anywhere from .018 to .012. When I bring it to the machine shop, do I tell them to cut the top off towards the head?

Should I tell them to make it even with no lip at all?

Dave

5
Listeroid Engines / Cylinder Painting
« on: June 29, 2011, 02:42:58 AM »
I have a Powerline 24/2. I had (have) problems with excess cylinder wall protrusion. I was reading .008. I think it's supposed to be .003 to .005. I pressed the liner out the cylinder block. The liner was rusted bad so I wire brushed them. I am hoping when I put it back together I won't have to make another trip to the machine shop. The liner was measuring .008 in some spots, more in others.

This next bit may be a really stupid question.

Can I paint the outside of the liner with Hi-Temp paint? I know enough not to coat the mating surfaces at the top or the grooves where the O Rings go.

Dave

6
I have personally spoken to Atul when the original dealer I purchased my 24/2 from went out of business. I don't know what it costs to call my home from India, but I don't think it's cheap.

He called me twice. Once to clarify the problem and again to solve it.

Atul made sure I was taken care of and he answered all my questions.

Does any other Listeroid manufacturer provide as much in customer service?

Dave

8
Listeroid Engines / Radiator Mounting Height
« on: May 29, 2011, 04:28:29 PM »
I took the radiator off a bracket I had welded to the engine due to vibration. I am getting ready to prepare a new location and I had a question about the the mounting height in relationship to the engine. I have seen quite a few variations in this subject.

Should we put the bottom of the radiator above the highest level of the coolant in the engine? I want to have the flexability to run this thermosyphon or pumped coolant.

Dave

9
Listeroid Engines / Re: Coolant Passage Alignment
« on: May 23, 2011, 09:50:35 PM »
I am concerned that parts of the cylinder block and the heads would cool dramatically better than others.

My question is if anyone else has seen the same problem or if the head and the cylinder block is mismtched. Or it may be the norm on Listeroids.

I need to get the heads re-surfaced and the valves lapped. I don't want to do it if I have the wrong heads. I had coolant running out of the bolt holes on the cylinder block that used to bolt the fuel tank bracket. It probably was the gasket or the "Bump" clearence was out of spec. I will be checking the liner once I get the new gaskets which is how this all got started.


The head and the block ran hot over... 200 degrees. I had fans on the radiator and no water pump. Thermosiphon. I found a lot of flash in the heads which I removed. I have not checked the cylinder block yet.

10
Listeroid Engines / Re: Coolant Passage Alignment
« on: May 23, 2011, 06:51:34 PM »
It is not the gasket. The coolant passages don't line up.

Did I get the wrong head and cylinder block combination?

11
Listeroid Engines / Re: Coolant Passage Alignment
« on: May 23, 2011, 02:39:57 AM »
The 24/2 is a Powerline model I purchased back in 2005. It came with a spare gasket kit. I have not bought any other parts.

12
Listeroid Engines / Re: Coolant Passage Alignment
« on: May 23, 2011, 02:35:14 AM »
Here is the picture of the head coolant passages showing the square holes. The cylinder block matches the shapes on the gasket which is more of a triangle.


13
Listeroid Engines / Coolant Passage Alignment
« on: May 23, 2011, 02:23:16 AM »
Has anyone checked the alignment of the coolant passages between the head and the cylinder block? I had some coolant leaks under the head so I took the head off to check and or replace the gasket.

The first thing I noticed was that the gasket does not line up well with the head or the cylinder block.
 




I had heard that Gaskets To Go makes custom gaskets that could be made with large enough holes to accommodate the the minor differences in the gasket so the passages would be clear. I traced the cylinder block and head then laid the tracings on top of each
other. I highlighted the passage misalignment in black.



I was shocked to find that 4 of the holes are about 50% or more blocked because the coolant passages do not line up between the head and cylinder block. Making a custom gasket won't help.

I looked at the possibility of using a die grinder on the cylinder block and the head but I am concerned I may structurally impair the either piece or cause additional leaks.

Has anyone else seen this?

Why don't the head and the cylinder block coolant passages have the same shape and oriented so the line up better? Do I have a part mismatch between the head and the cylinder block?

14
Lister Based Generators / Gauges for Generator
« on: April 23, 2011, 10:40:08 PM »
Getting ready for hurricane season in Florida!

I had the Listeroid genset 24/2 with a 15kw ST head running for about 30 minutes. Powered the barn after I isolated the house.

The rubber horse stall pads made the vibration go away!

I have a full wave bridge rectifier for the field windings on the 15KW no AVR. Had to shut down when the radiator almost boiled over....  Forgot to plug in the 12vdc for the fans.

I put a few loads on it. Circular saw drew the most current, dropping the 120 to 117 and the frequency from 60.9 to 60.1 I did not detect flicker in the lights. Engine runs at 1000 rpm. I bought a 850/1000 rpm pulley from Mike Montieth. I have not run it yet at 850. DC voltage on field winding ran between 44 and 45 vdc. Forgot to check current.

I have it shut down now to repair some coolant leaks and to mount the radiator off the frame. (Listen to George....Don't put the radiator on the frame!)

I want to order some gauges to mount on a panel and to rig up an over heat, over voltage and over frequency (RPM) auto shut down mechanism.

I would like to get murphy gauges that have the adjustable contact closure trip points.

Does anybody know where I can get these gauges?

Is Rocketboy still around?

His web page shows a solenoid that hooks up to the fuel rack. Looks very nifty. Can anybody PM me his phone number? I'd like to get some details on this.

I'm mostly harmless and only a little strange.

It's about a 2 hour drive from me.

To Summarize:

Where to buy Murphy Gauges?
Rocketboy contact info?
DC Voltage range and current on field winding? (For Gauges)

Dave

15
Lister Based Generators / Re: Rubber Pads for Gnerator Mount
« on: April 12, 2011, 10:38:55 PM »
I call it a barn. It's actually a work shop with a concrete floor and cinder block walls.

I have a tractor supply not too far from here. I will look there for the stall mats.


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6