Clean all that paint off of the key and crank first.  Then, as John said, clean up the keyway.  My puller is 3/4" thick.

Be prepared for a broken key!  one of mine had a crack extending through 1/2 its cross section.  The tang broke off while attempting to remove it.  I made drill guides on a mill, and drilled the sucker out.  It took the best part of three days, and 12 long drill bits.

Good Luck, and have fun!

Wow! 400+ gm is almost a pound from the rim.  How do people do this?  

I was thinking of using the same general method as I use for my R/C helicopers.  Could someone in the know comment on my procedure?  Basically the procedure would be as follows for my 20/2:

1. Remove the heads, secure the cylinders with short pipes to make up the head distance to the nuts on the studs.
2. Remove the idler pulley
3. Remove the #2 piston / rod, counter balances, and the associated flywheel
4. Spin by hand and mark the flywheel at the bottom when it come to rest.  Repeat several times.
5. If flywheel comes to rest at about the same place repeatedly, drill out some material in the center of the marks, and go back to step 4.

The flywheel should now come to rest at random points along its circumference.

6. Re-install the #2 piston / rod, counter balances, and flywheel
7. Spin by hand and mark the #2 flywheel at the bottom when it come to rest.  Repeat several times.
8. If #2 flywheel comes to rest at about the same place repeatedly, drill out some material in the center of the marks, and go back to step 7.

The flywheel should now come to rest at random points along its circumference.

Note that minor corrections can be made by drilling material from the counterbalances, if the piston repeatedly comes to rest near the top of the cylinder.

The camshaft could be balaced in a similar manner.

In any democracy the government is "We the People".  Perhaps "We the People" should have exercised our duty prior to the formation of these regulations. If we fail to keep ourselves informed, or to raise our voices when we will be adversely affected by political action, we have no right to complain about the results.

Go back to Mike's last post.  That's the ONLY hard information we have on what transpired.  Everything else is pure speculation.  Let's stop making problems for ourselves, and get on with it.

As to certification of the Lister Style diesels...  

Does anyone know if the EPA issues exemptions for engines run on alternative fuels such as SVO or BioDiesel?

Will the Lister Syle engines pass the EPA tier two emmission standards running on these fuels?

Quote from: agroot on January 28, 2007, 08:45:33 PM

My 5 Kw Chanfa has just over 500 hrs on it, and is still running strong.  It is a noisy beast, but has electric start on it.
 

Agroot,

What size Changfa did you get, a 195?  Did you ever examine the insides for sand?  How often do you change the oil, clean the oil filter?  Ever see any crud in it?  Have you had to remove/service your injector yet?  Run on diesel or what?

I bought the PowerWerks 5Kw Diesel Generator set from Boss Tool Supply. It's now sold as a P3. The engine appears to be a Model CF186FE.  I haven't had it apart.  I changed the oil at 5, 15, 50, and 100 hrs, then every 100 hrs. I have not noticed any crud in the oil.

It has been run for about 20 hrs on WVO, the rremainder of the time it has run on BioDiesel.  I store it in the basement, and move it outdoors when required.  This keeps the BioDiesel liquid, even at -25C.

The Tod is a most worthy project.

Too much of our engineering past has been scrapped.  The large scale open engineering is awesome to behold as a static display, and wondrous in operation.  Many of our young engineers will benefit from a display of their roots.

Another possible revenue stream would be the sale of scale plans for the engine.  You may be able to get Sherline or Taig to cover costs of drawing them up.

Generating the electrical power for the museum with an engine that matches the period is an excellent idea.

Were you able to save more of the plant, or were you limited to it's heart?

 

There's a thread in the BioDiesel and SVO Discussion Forums on this subject.

Basically, they're recommending adding water to the combustion chamber of a hot engine.  A trickle of 25-50 cc/ minute is used to reduce the NOx emissions, and  reduce carbon build-up for small engines.  A shot of water is used to clean the carbon out of the cylinder.  They're uncertain as to whether or not this would clean the buildup from the rings.

Apparently this method is routinely used in larger diesels.  Does anyone here have any experience with this?

If you are driving a generator, the Kill-A-Watt will give you the frequency.  You can calculate the RPM from the frequency, if you know the diameters of the pulleys.

RPM = (f*60/Np) * Pg / Pe

f = frequency
Np = number of poles on generator (2 for 1500 or 1800 RPM generators, 4 in 3000 or 3600 RPM generators)
Pg = diameter of pulley on generator
Pe = diameter of pulley on engine