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Messages - buffdownunder

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1
Waste Vegetable Oil / Re: Pool clarifier before filtering
« on: January 31, 2007, 10:09:16 PM »
The air bubble arrangement sounds very promising and you could blow in hot air to also get any water in the oil out.

I think that I will try and see what happens if I take 20 litres of WVO, add the clarifier and use a hot air gun to blow hot air (~110 degrees celcius) through a pipe to the bottom of the drum so that it gets the oil on temperature (reduces viscosity), mixes the clarifier thoroughly and gets the particles to float on the surface. That is a pretty easy test.

Edward

2
Everything else / Re: Design Parameters for cooling water system
« on: January 31, 2007, 09:41:33 AM »
Quote from: rmchambers on January 25, 2007, 01:01:29 AM
If it's outside under the hot Australian sun I'd say paint the bugger white or silver, anything but black.

If it's outside you want to put a bigger tube around that tube that has an opening on the bottom and on the top. Something like a chimney tube. The top of the tube you paint black so it heats up. This will make a hell of a "chimney" suction effect and even 40 degrees hot air will manage to cool the steam down to condensate in no time. Black works awesome in the sun to create cooling effects if you use it the right way. Have a look at the colours the Tuaregs in the North African desert wear. Dark Blue and Black because it makes them sweat more and the fabric makes the sweat evaporate which cools.

The idea with a hollow water tank is also good but it isn't high enough to create the chimney effect. The evaporation would occur in the engine or right after the outlet because this is where the water is the hottest. This is why I mentioned blowing air into the outlet pipe to cool it down before it reaches the drum.

My general feeling is that you need 2 m height as a minimum to get a sufficient airflow in hot climates and the tube has to be coiled to create turbulences which enhance the heat transfer process.

In cold climates I would simply weld a 1 m tube to the drum because anything below 15 degrees ambient temperature will create more than enough condensation.

Cheers,
Edward

3
Waste Vegetable Oil / Pool clarifier before filtering
« on: January 31, 2007, 09:07:22 AM »
Has anybody ever tried pool clarifier before filtering WVO?

It sounds stupid but I had an issue with a pool not being clear and the guy in the pool shop gave me a so called pool clarifier. 100 ml of this "organic polymer" for every 10.000 litre and it made all the small particles cluster together so that the sand filter got them out. The effect was amazing. Cristal clear water after ONE filter cycle with just a simple sand filter.

Organic Polymer doesn't sound so far away and 100 ml on 10.000 litre is hardly traceable.

This way I could take an old sandfilter and filter WVO to cristal clear quality or the cheapest filter bag available and my desire for a centrifuge would dissapear..

Before I try this I thought I better ask if somebody has done this before

4
Everything else / Re: Design Parameters for cooling water system
« on: January 23, 2007, 01:48:30 AM »
Quote from: t19 on January 22, 2007, 09:46:39 PM
What is so hard about using a Van rad with a 12 or 120 volt fan and a thermostat??

It is the easiest and less maint solution... and the junk yards are full of them


Andrew

Reliability and installation Andrew. A radiator is pressurized and my setup is pure 240 AC so I would have to need transformers, .... to make it happen and every part is one part more that can fail. I just like the simplicity of the drum setup

5
Everything else / Re: Full-time generator with grid backup?
« on: January 22, 2007, 10:59:01 PM »
It may be absolutely stupid because electrical engineering is not my friend but why not make a solution like this:

Put the generator in parallel to the grid but ad a device after your meters and before the parallel connection that no power can go into the grid and that the grid is disconnected as soon as it fails. This way you shouldn't have any security issues with the utility. Then you would probably also need a load limiter on your generator so that the lister isn't forced to go over say 70-80% load or what every you like to put as an upper load limit.

Cheers,
Edward

6
Everything else / Re: Design Parameters for cooling water system
« on: January 22, 2007, 08:03:07 PM »
Quote from: snail on January 18, 2007, 05:28:00 AM
Can use up to 40L of water a day though.If you've got the time now I'd go for a radiator and fan

Hi Brian,

What is so good about a radiator fan connection that you accept all the auxilliaries that go with it? If it is just the water boiling away you could ad a simple cooling device to the drum to keep the temperature under the boiling point. Just blow air into the water. I haven't calculated it yet but a aquarium blower should do the job. You could also close the drum and make a cooling tower with a few metres of copper pipe where the evaporating water condensates again and flows back.

Cheers,
Edward

7
Everything else / Re: Design Parameters for cooling water system
« on: January 22, 2007, 07:56:56 PM »
How do I connect the thermostat so that it works (inlet or outlet) and is there any type suggestion?
Thanks,
Edward

8
Everything else / Re: Design Parameters for cooling water system
« on: January 18, 2007, 03:17:52 PM »
This is where I thought that a radiator would be overkill.
It's good to hear that a normal drum should do the job. I will use this first and monitor how hot the water gets.
Thanks Snail.
Edward

9
Everything else / Design Parameters for cooling water system
« on: January 18, 2007, 03:54:46 AM »
Hi there,

I received my refurbished orignal Lister CS6/1 and I was wondering what I have to consider when looking for the right cooling water setup. I have seen people just using the standard big oil drums but I also heard something like 70 litre of cooling water for every horse power. That would mean that I need 420 litre of cooling water.

Is there any information around on how high the maximum inlet temperature is for cooling water?

Regards,
Edward

PS: How do I make sure that my cooling water drum doesn't rust and the rust doesn't go into the engine?

10
Listeroid Engines / Re: How to autostart a CS 6/1?
« on: January 10, 2007, 07:42:15 PM »
I understand JT. If you want to switch engines it makes sense. One question: Why do you want to switch engines? Isn't the lister so great because you will never need to move it?
Edward

11
Waste Vegetable Oil / www.biofuelsforum.com
« on: January 10, 2007, 07:33:32 AM »
I didn't read about anybody mentioning this forum. I came across listers in it and it deals with everything including waste veggie.
Edward

12
Listeroid Engines / Re: How to autostart a CS 6/1?
« on: January 10, 2007, 06:17:08 AM »
Thanks for this additional info JT.
One question that might be really stupid. I looked at the photos of your starter setup and asked myself why you didn't put the flex plate on the generator axis. This way you save a belt, an axis, bearings, ......

Then I want to use a heavy duty charger that I have to recharge the starter battery so I don't need any additional alternator. Anything objecting against this?
Cheers,
Edward

13
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Proud owner of original lister CS6/1 - WHAT NOW???
« on: January 10, 2007, 02:59:00 AM »
Awesome Brian. Many thanks

14
Original Lister Cs Engines / Proud owner of original lister CS6/1 - WHAT NOW???
« on: January 09, 2007, 11:51:20 PM »
I am since yesterday the proud owner off a fully refurbished lister CS6/1 that I got with a great amount of luck for 1500 Australian Dollars.
It will be delivered to me tomorrow and I will set it up as a Genset.
My big question now is where do I start best. The engine is running like a dream and starts so easily. I just don't want to make any mistakes. Is there any literature available? Is there a chance to optain a service manual for this engine?
Thanks,
Edward

15
Listeroid Engines / Re: How to autostart a CS 6/1?
« on: January 09, 2007, 11:45:33 PM »
Thank you all for your great input. The electrical site is covered by a buddy that does all this stuff professionally. I was more interested in the mechanical part of engaging and disengaging the starter unit without adding anything to the balanced lister shaft.
The featured method looks nice and I will go with it. Thanks.

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