Does this mean if I don't have a breaker lock off I don't have to wash dishes cause the code  would be violated?
My genset will be connected to the transfer switch via twistlock cord.
Bob P

In a recent thread mobile Bob mentioned codes, fire, inspector, and insurance in the same sentence. Ramifications if a fire were to occur.
Denial of claim.
That got me to thinking,, Ouch,
 The only place I have to mount my unit is in the attached garage, planned on running it allot during the day to supply air conditioning burning waste hydraulic oil, WMO maybe, old diesel, whatever is to be had for free.
I do have an automatic fire bottle I planned to mount directly above the engine.

Has anyone had an engine fire??? And what was the cause?

From what I have observed, doesn't insurance normally cover "stupid"??
Officially the 6\1 would be for  Hurricane backup, but looking awful permanent to an after the fact inspector

 
I think have the electrical distribution portion under control; fully protected starting with a 20amp two pole 240V breaker mounted directly in the doghouse of the brushless 6KW head. Plus automatic 240v disconnect should an auto shutdown occur, to protect from low volts/HZ while the engine and gen head spool down. Tied to the house thru approved transfer switch, but installed by me.
Bob

I use a spring clamp to hold the throttle open a little at startup for warming then engage solenoid for 1800 rpm.
the "Hold" coil goes on with the on switch, the pull coil is only momentary with push button



Bob

unit  goes to full stop.
I use a #2 "Pony" type spring clamp just above the throttle knob, seems to hold it at about 1000RPM for just a minute or two to let the oil circulate and warm things just a bit. It must be removed for running so that if the auto stops for high temp or low oil pressure trip, it goes to full stop. These are controled by Murphy gauges. spring clamp from Home Depot. Adjustable locking link of throttle mechanism is a small sailboat life line terminal end  from West Marine, welding required,
 I should have detail pics in the 12KW Home generator folder of my (Petersbpus) Photobucket album.
If you wish I can find them and post a direct link.

Two warnings, I did have one solenoid fail due to vibration of the Chinese single, the spot welds on the bracket gave up and it was dangleing there. HZ dropped and equipment hated that, I posted link to pics of broken one and reinforcement of it's replacement in a previous thread, I can look for that or post again.
 Also, be sure the "pull" coil is only hooked to a momentary switch, amprage is high, I'm sure it was over 25 amps. Hold coil is continious and was 2 amps or less.
Bob P.

Here is a video of test run of my 11.5 Onan marine unit after refurbishment. It has been sold.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbssy25CfSw&NR=1

The only marine 1200 RPM Gensets I am aware of are much older GM sets, I know of two boats that have them, both are from the 80's. From what they have told me they are not replaceable today.
An 1800 rpm multi- cylinder unit is not very loud, certainly not a screamer.
Silence the exhaust and the  intake
Water muffled exhaust is very quite,
If the unit has the factory intake silencer, on small marine older units it is normaly just that, a sliencer not a filter at all.


The last travel trailor I owned, had a gas water heater that consisted of about a 2" diameter U shaped pipe that ran into and back out of the tank. The flame simply blew thru this pipe, I know that pipe was aluminum so corrosion may be an issue, I don't think it would, with that short of a run and not over cooling the exhaust, not that much surface area
maybe better materials are available for bigger bucks, BUT
you could run your dry exhaust thru one of those or other gas water heater and use the heated water  ( or coolant) to circulate for space heating.
Just run a pipe tap into the end of the pipe and install a nipple. Welding would be better, just purchase  aluminum pipe couplers and have them welded into place.
I would bet someone on this forum has done this already.

 

I just used High Temp Gold RTV for most all coolant related needs, good thing too cause it seems they were taken apart alot as the project progressed.

For the oil pump. filter and pressure system to both cam ends I used a anerobic curing  teflon thread sealant good for natural  G and propane too.
Bob P.
Christmas day must have been almost  80 F

Thanks for that Jim,
I see that during move of your   panel the main grid power was off,
So?? The electrical inspector is OK with the grid being ON while the generator is ON powering just some of the circuits and sharing neutral with them while both (grid and genset) are hot? Polarity is critical, just don’t have Joe blow the handyman change any wall sockets and not know about gold, silver, black, white, red, blue etc.

As Tom points out the best way to hook this type of system is thru a grid tie inverter, if you are in a net metering state any excess electric is sold to the MAN. Aka monopoly.
As far as I have gathered the most efficient way to accomplish this is, you want to generate DC directly to the inverter not AC to use for120\240 VDC loads then.
By generating DC you are giving the inverter the same input as it would receive from your solar array or wind turbine, and then all is copasetic.

That's IF you design the system from new from the ground up with those intentions.
In my case that's not how I started this project.
I have my 12KW ( 9 usable) Changfoid for full hurricane backup all set to plug into the house thru a separate box with 50amp breaker that cannot be engaged without turning off the grid 200amp breaker. The generator then feeds the house just like the grid. Giant #4 wire  four conductor "shore" power cord connected to the generator out in the driveway under a 10 X 20 pole tent.

Before I ever considered a 6\1 system, I bought the 5000\10,000 12V inverter to hook up to my freebee batteries (6 8-D gel cells) or my truck (2 1000 amp hr batteries) DURING the immediate approach and passing of a hurricane.
We turn off the grid power before it goes down violently taking appliances with it.
When Wilma was coming on top of us (directly in the worst edge of the eye wall) we heard a loud bang and the sky lit up, before the grid power went out. I have a few 1\2" Lexan 12" x 12" "portholes" bonded to my aluminum shutters to see out and let some light in the house.
My power was already shut off at the main watching radar on 12v TV.
After the storm, I went to check things out and the neighbor on adjacent street had broken pole and transformer in his yard told me that the TWO big TV's he had turned on and some of his appliances exploded when the shit hit the fan.
I just thought it amazing he was surprised by this.
 It was another 24 hours before we could even get out of our dead end street, 7 or 8 guys with chain saws for a day.
Then 9 days on the Changfoid 1115  before power was back,
3 phase at work was out almost 3 weeks. single phase was out 2 weeks but could not use the heavy 3 ph electrical equipment.

Anyway,,,
This  means the refrigerator needs to run some before I can put the portable generator out side under the pole and tarp shelter in my driveway.
I had already spent 500+ on an inverter and (according to the purists) am going at this a bass ackwards.

The intent is to run air conditioner loads in summer, refrig and freezer plus make domestic hot water to cut electric bill. That's how I sold this to my wife.
It can only work if fuel is free.
Now that the economy is collapsing having your own power may be a good idea. My wife agrees with this too. Hope she still agrees with "FAT Sandy" pounding away in the garage.

So like you, I have an AC generator but would like to integrate the inverter

 Do you intend to run the Listeroid while grid power is ON and available??

To keep the load stable and not subject the 6\1 to start load of the refrigerator (9 Amps running and maybe 4350 to start) I need to keep it on the inverter.
I'm droning on so that enough for now
Bob

Now that the engine, generator, heat exchange system is almost done, looking at the hookup to the house not as simple as putting in the transfer switches as I thought.