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Messages - dieselgman

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1
Listeroid Engines / Re: Group order from India
« on: June 07, 2021, 08:43:44 PM »
We have a 15 year relationship with an India exporter who does our sourcing and other shipping and handling tasks in India. We bring in full containers of the various Lister clones as "parts kits". These are stocked in Kansas USA along with copious amounts of spare parts. The import costs have soared since we started doing this line of business, but can still be a good bargain because we do it in quantity. gsj@gci.net - diesel-electric.us

dieselgman

2
General Discussion / Re: Engine identification SR2 or LR2 or LD2 or SL2
« on: April 10, 2021, 12:49:55 AM »
450 psi would be considered fairly "normal" although this is not a spec nor a procedure proferred by Lister for these machines. We sometimes get down to this if we have a balking engine that we cannot get an accurate diagnosis from the usual crankcase vacuum measurement. (i.e. the engine just cannot be started). What you are actually looking for is consistent even compression across all cylinders. 350 psi may be considered enough on one of these very small engines. You cannot test through an injector. Use an adapter made for the purpose.

Injectors should be bench tested for pop pressure, spray pattern, seal and consistency across cylinders. They can be installed inverted onto your engine if you want to confirm fuel pump operation as well, just cannot see as many details when doing it that way.

The leak-off line from top of injector allows the system to be somewhat self-purging of air in the lines. With a new tight perfect injector there may be no fuel bypass at all... with others there may be considerable, but that generally means that there is internal leakage within the injector body. Some CS models actually used a small open container to catch the very slight drip from the injector leak-off. Newer fuel systems route this back into the fuel supply tank or back into the secondary fuel filter as in your SR.

dieselgman

3
General Discussion / Re: Engine identification SR2 or LR2 or LD2 or SL2
« on: April 09, 2021, 07:28:49 PM »
Have you tried using the cold-start cups?  Located on top of each intake runner is a plastic cup and plunger. These are designed to boost compression and top lubrication for initial startup - especially when cold. These can help make up for some minor compression loss due to engine wear in cylinders and rings. If the engine is internally clean, then a quick check on valve adjustment is advised.

If your fuel injection tests good, then compression is the next item on the list to confirm. These will not go out of time as far as your pumps are concerned unless someone has tinkered around and changed the shim packs. Knowledge of the machine history will always help in this determination.

dieselgman

4
General Discussion / Re: Engine identification SR2 or LR2 or LD2 or SL2
« on: April 08, 2021, 04:46:25 PM »
Marine SR2 as far as I can see. We don't often see the old SRs in clockwise rotation in North America. The raised starter motor is an odd modification, first one I have seen done like that.

dieselgman

5
Generators / Re: I'm ready to buy a gen head..............
« on: March 31, 2021, 05:07:06 AM »
Stamford original or Chinese Stamford copy - very close to the same thing. Stamford original 8.2kW about double the cost of the Chinese clone. Lister/Petter  had Chinese manufacturers building most of their (rebranded) generator heads for the past decade. We stock a wide array of these machines.

There is no real penalty in running an 8kW head at 1/2 its rated output... so that is a non-issue.

dieselgman

6
Engines / Re: Fuel Leak off SR2
« on: March 24, 2021, 08:29:41 PM »
That connection back to filter only serves to help bleed off air in the event of fuel tank run completely empty and a bunch of air getting into filter. It can be helpful at times, but not necessary.

dieselgman

7
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Resleeving a CS
« on: March 24, 2021, 08:19:54 PM »
Talk to 38AC - Butch. He has done this same work for us in the past - with excellent results.

dieselgman

8
Lister Based Generators / Re: Thinking about buying this Lister Petter TS2 with Marathon Head. Thoughts?
« on: March 16, 2021, 05:59:27 PM »
Excellent little setup there. The air-cooled Listers will last a very long time and the Marathon generator head is top-shelf for sure. Price seems very reasonable for a good running set like that.

It will be noisy and consume quite a bit of fuel whether or not any load is present. Load her up!

dieselgman

9
Lister Based Generators / Re: Lister glow plug source
« on: March 10, 2021, 09:10:14 PM »
All parts are available... some must be imported from Germany. What model engine? You would do well to get with our company for ready availability of all Lister Petter parts.
Diesel Electric Services...
http://diesel-electric.us

dieselgman

10
Other Fuels / Re: Uk heating oul
« on: February 27, 2021, 12:41:27 AM »
The main equipment that is affected by low lubricity fuel would be rotary pumps. In Alaska we run only one type of fuel oil for everything including all the diesel generators (it is very light and dry). The additive of choice is simply a little biodiesel. Diesel trucks sometimes add a bit of automatic transmission fluid (Dexron) to deal with the lubrication problem. Many companies offer lubricity additives under various names. Fuel oil #1 will readily mix with most lubricating and other light oils. Really none of this has a major concern for a slow-speed Lister though.

dieselgman

11
Generators / Re: 240 vs 220
« on: February 26, 2021, 11:40:28 PM »
Quote from: 32 coupe on February 26, 2021, 03:38:26 AM

I would be more concerned about the power from the "ST head" than voltage.

I have 3. Two of them are the earlier series with copper windings and are wound
close to "spec" in that they will produce a solid 120/240 output with no regulator.

The last one I purchased has copper windings but is so far out of spec that with no regulator
it will run about 370 volts output. It will not tolerate any imbalance between line loads.

One thing to also consider is that without some sort of voltage protection when and if you have
a drive failure (engine fail) something on the output side will fail. Could be as small as a diode or
regulator or an appliance being used.


I have pretty much given up on the ST heads. I still play with mine in that I regularly run the sets and
exercise the units with heat strips as loads but when I need to power the house I use sets I have built with
the Stamford "clone" heads because the power is better regulated (voltage, hz and sine wave) and if I do
have an engine failure the voltage will drop to a certain point and the regulator will "drop out" the head with
no damage to head or appliances.

With that said good luck and let us know how it works out.

Gary
Sound advice... The AVR controlled heads are a much better design and worth the extra cost for many of us using modern connected devices.
In addition, the Stamford copies (as well as originals) require no brush maintenance. typical 10,000 hour bearing service, and that is it.

dieselgman

12
Generators / Re: 240 vs 220
« on: February 24, 2021, 06:14:27 PM »
Likely not a 100% answer... but, if your power output is steady on frequency 60Hz. then the actual voltage is somewhat flexible in most devices. Also, 220 ac vs 240 ac is sometimes used loosely as a descriptor or equipment rating. Any computer boards will convert this external ac supply via an internal switching power supply (often to 5volts) and regulation will be very close.

Generator head rating: This output value can be adjusted if you run an AVR on your generator head vs the harmonic Z winding (as used in some ST heads).  The brushless Stamford designs will be a much better power source for all things computerized and their output will be controlled with an internal AVR. Yes, they are much more expensive. They offer much less maintenance and longer life-spans.

I hope this helps, dieselgman

13
General Discussion / Re: Significant vibration STW3 - any experiences or suggestions
« on: February 23, 2021, 02:11:11 PM »
Injectors are routinely bench tested and serviced off the machinery. If you have access to a reputable local shop then the costs will be low and results usually good. If no local shop, you can get replacement spares and/or send out your used parts for servicing. Usually advisable to service all 3 cylinders together. Your fuel system is likely the weak link to allow gradual degradation of performance. In our shop we use an IR laser thermometer to check individual cylinder performance. If they are running within 10 to 15 F to each other, then you are running within spec. Are you running with a lift-pump? Those are often the cause of much difficulty. Of course the obvious stuff is to inspect exhaust color and condition under load to see any obvious combustion issues. Inspection inside the exhaust manifold will also tell you a lot about what is going on with your engine and can pinpoint an individual cylinder malfunction. In a pinch, you can engage the decompressors - one at a time - to see how much load an individual cylinder is pulling. They should all be even. CAUTION, your decompressors must be adjusted properly or this option can allow exhaust valve damage if it were to contact the piston.

14
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 1940 CS 5/1
« on: February 22, 2021, 04:23:24 PM »
Some of my information is from the early "Black Data Book" Published for dealers by Lister/Petter Ltd... a few of the details do vary from other documentation I have seen. What I have taken away from experience is that any assumptions about exact specs should be confirmed by hands-on the actual machinery... likely true of any antique we might get our hands on.

Gary

15
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 1940 CS 5/1
« on: February 21, 2021, 06:47:00 AM »
Quote from: 38ac on February 19, 2021, 12:47:52 AM
To the best of my knowledge only the very early engines had a smaller diameter crank pin, actually the very first engines had 1 7/8 mains and two piece main bearing housings borrowed from the parent engine, the model L gas, oops petrol engine. All were recalled best I have read. Past the early versions, which you do not have. A 5/1 only differs from a 6/1 in the operating RPM and HP rating the crank, bearings and rod are same part number. Good luck with your gib keys, my current shop project took me about 20 hours to remove one key and flywheel die to a botched attempt to cut the key out with a torch. If the decide to drill the key as Gary suggested it is best to make a drill guide which is a short piece of the proper sized key with a hole drilled thought it exactly on center and square.

Thanks for that input... I have been inside a few of the early 3/1 and 5/1 engines. Here is what I found... 2" main bearings and the smaller rod journals in my specimens. It was very easy to assume that the 3/1 and 5/1 were direct predecessors of the 6/1 and 8/1 and they differ mainly in bore size (which they certainly do). Taking a look at the part numbers I can see that 3/1 and 5/1 use the same crankshaft part number. Operating speeds - same as later engines.? There are certainly a lot of variants and subtle changes to be seen in the early engines and replacement parts may have been swapped in over the years as well. It does not help that minimal published data remains for the early versions of these... they also reference a 3 1/2 - 1 in some of the documentation, variants all I would bet. I did find margin notes saying the 3 1/2 and 3/1 vary only in rated speeds... 5/1 and 6/1 however have different bore sizes? Plenty of room for confusion. Check your individual engine it may vary from the published specs.

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