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Messages - listeroil

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1
This is a picture of the charge switch off a 4.5 kw Startomatic top box.

Have you located a control box choke yet as I have a spare one that I dont need.





Mick

2
Original Lister Cs Engines / Water or steam injection
« on: February 16, 2020, 08:03:06 PM »
I would like some advice about water injection please.  I will explain my situation I live off grid in the UK have been doing so for the last 19 years.  For most of that time I have been running old Lister 8/1 engined Startomatics on WVO. No preheating just a thermostat to get the engine up to temperature quick.  One thing I have noticed is that when I first get an engine thats been run on diesel all its life it starts first compression.  However when starting on WVO it takes progressively more turning over to start on cold WVO.  Not a big problem because its electric start.  But not ideal also when doing a decoke I find a lot of erosion occurring above the top piston ring. So I fit a new piston and away we go again.

I have managed to acquire an almost brand new 1974 8/1 Startomatic.  It was bought in 1974 when we had 3 months of power cuts to provide power for a Mansion house in Oxfordshire.  It looks brand new no wear on anything.  Probably done about 300 hours in total.  With this bit of kit I want to set it up right.  I've cast a concrete base and bolted it to that.  It runs so smooth on red diesel at the moment.

I intend to start on red and after 15 mins when the engine is warm changeover to WVO run on that until shut down then change over to red for long enough to start on red diesel next start.  This will be controlled by an Arduino.  Before I run on WVO I intend to fit water injection again controlled by the Arduino.  The Arduino will be used to control a mains operated peristaltic pump this way I can control exactly the amount of water injected per given load.  The 8/1 uses about 500ml fuel per Kwh. 

So the question is how much water to inject the same amount as fuel or less?
Another thought would steam injection be better?  Because I am using a peristaltic pump I could wrap 3/16 copper brake pipe round the exhaust and inject steam in to the inlet manifold.

3
Engines / Re: Turned out that my Lister wasn't ST2 :-)
« on: November 14, 2019, 06:36:22 PM »
No dont go just adjusting the revs to increase the voltage thats not the way to do it. It is quite easy to increase the voltage there is a big fat wirewound resistor in the top box with a adjustable strap around it.  Slide it one way the voltage goes up slide it the other way and the voltage goes down.  But before you do that you do need to set the engine revs so that the electric output is at 50Hz.  The best way to do that is use a Plug In Electricity Power Consumption Meter Energy Monitors Watt kwh Analyzer     (eBay item number:153614689748)  Adjust the engine revs so that the meter reads 50Hz then adjust the voltage on the big resistor.  Heres a picture of a 4.5Kw startomatic topbox with the big fat resistor that you use to adjust the voltage yours should be similar.

Mick


4
This is from a genuine 1971 Lister manual and shows

17 thou inlet and 32 thou exhaust for the 6/1 engine

8 thou inlet and 8 thou exhaust for the 8/1 engine




5
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: oil seal Lister CS8-1
« on: September 30, 2019, 04:27:22 PM »
It might be a good idea to remove the injection pump before you try.  It was about 10 years ago when I last did it and I cant remember if I removed it first.  Its only a couple of bolts anyway and easier to do when connected to the engine.

6
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: oil seal Lister CS8-1
« on: September 30, 2019, 03:13:09 PM »
No need to remove anything inside the case if all you want is the case off to replace the seal.  Just the 3 studs and injection pump pipes and a clevis pin on the external linkage.  Good point about aligning it with one of the flywheel holes before you start
Mick

7
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: oil seal Lister CS8-1
« on: September 28, 2019, 12:19:40 AM »
No need to remove anything else.  Just the 3 studs and you can slide it off the camshaft and wriggle it past the flywheel.

8
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: oil seal Lister CS8-1
« on: September 27, 2019, 07:39:28 PM »
There is no need to remove the flywheel.  It is possible to remove the camshaft injection pump cover by removing the studs with the cover in position.  Double nut the studs to remove them.  I have done this on a genuine 8/1 no problem.

9
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: LEF Document Store - thoughts
« on: September 10, 2019, 12:24:41 AM »
Brilliant idea please do it. If these are of any interest all in PDF format I will donate them to a free LEF library.
4 CS engine manuals years 1936  1938  1953 and finally 1971.
2 CS engined startomatic manuals 4.5kW 1969 and 2.5kW  1952.
Book 583-167 Diesel generating plant for VA. 6/1, 8/1, 12/2 and 16/2.
Book 584-367 Diesel generating plant  Push button remote controlled for VA 6/1 etc.
Book 585-267 A.C. Automatic remote control generating sets for VA 6/1 81 12/2 etc.
Book 213-539  Alternator sets 15 K.V.A.
Book 680-1264 Startomatic air cooled generating set with HA2 air cooled engine.
Book 442-163  1.75kW to 4.5kW AC generating plants Types SL air cooled diesel.
Book 495-956  1,5kW A.C. Startomatic Electric generating plant
CAV  Fuel injection pumps
CAV  Fuel injection nozzles and holders Instruction manual for models S T U & V
Mick

10
Bio-diesel Fuel / Re: Expain to me why you bother to make bio diesel
« on: August 30, 2019, 05:37:16 PM »
My reason for making biodiesel is that I have 1000s of litres of whites.  I collect wvo from local restaurants I leave it to stand for a couple of weeks then decant the nice runny oil off the top.  That whats I run the 8/1 startomatic with.  Over the 10+ years I have been using the Lister I've acquired a mountain of dirty wet rancid whites which is no good for fuel as its nearly solid.  So I make biodiesel out of the whites. it turn thick horrible gunge into nice runny clean fuel that I can use in my td5 engined landrover.  I am allowed to use up to 2500 litres of tax free biodiesel a year.  So thats my reason for making biodiesel and the engine runs better as well.
Mick

11
Everything else / Re: Fuel lines - Banjo Union & Bolt
« on: July 01, 2019, 01:01:19 AM »
Hi Ariel
Welcome to the forum. I dont think you will find a 1/2 unf banjo with a compression fitting for 3/8 pipe.  Thats a big pipe diameter to be using. I think with a pump you could easily use 5/16 or 8mm.   Ive posted these pictures of a Lister alpha engine that I rebuilt a couple of years ago for a local fisherman. Its a 2000cc engine and only uses 8mm pipe and the connections to the pump and filter are tube nut and olive. The other pipe the black rubber one was supplied by our local hydraulic pipe maker. They can be very helpful and have access to gazillions of fittings.  Also nothing wrong with using a flanged banjo fitting and some nice new braided hose after all that is what they are made for like eBay item number:283371149494
Mick






12
Lister Based Generators / Re: 8-1 START-O-MATIC
« on: June 30, 2019, 09:51:51 PM »
Hi Kenneth
I will PM you my personal details and we can arrange a meet.  I can probably get you a free trip round Eden.  I have a friend who works there and employees are allowed to admit friends and family for nothing.
Mick

13
Lister Based Generators / Re: 8-1 START-O-MATIC
« on: June 29, 2019, 06:21:50 PM »
Hi Buryan
Believe it or not Cornwall about 800 meters from the Eden project.
Mick

14
Lister Based Generators / Re: 8-1 START-O-MATIC
« on: June 23, 2019, 07:05:46 PM »
I used  constantan wire otherwise known as copper nickel 56/44 or eurica wire. I used the same diameter as the original.  I think the resistor shown in the picture was 12 ohms and used 0.8mm wire.  It is available in small amounts from.

 https://www.wires.co.uk/acatalog/constantan.html

This is the wire I used:-

125g 0.8mm Copper Nickel Wire
Ref: CN0800-125
Price: 11.05 Exc VAT (13.26 Inc 20% VAT)
125 gram reel of 0.80mm 21 SWG Bare Copper Nickel Wire (Copper Nickel = Constantan = Eureka)
Data: approx: 0.975 ohms per metre, 125g = approx 28 metres

This is enough to do 2 resistors.

They also sell:-
OXIDIZED CONSTANTAN / copper/nickel
THE OXIDIZED SURFACE IS NON CONDUCTIVE
56/44 copper/nickel
This might be a better choice they didnt sell this when I rewound my resistor about 12 years ago.

Mick


15
Lister Based Generators / Re: 8-1 START-O-MATIC
« on: June 23, 2019, 12:19:25 PM »
Hi Butyan
I live in the UK and would be prepared to give it a go.  Whether it can be rebuilt depends on the condition of the parts you have. A lot of the bits are bullet proof and never wear out.  The main contactor contacts are the real problem they are unobtainable.  If yours are in good nick it should be possible to rebuild it.  Can you post pictures of all your bits especially the main contactor.

I have rebuilt 2 of these control boxes in the past heres some pictures of the last one I rebuilt 6 years ago, and a picture of a top box with a rewound resistor that I rewound.
Mick









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