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Listeroid Engines / Re: How To Choose A Radiator
« on: September 09, 2023, 08:09:32 AM »
What angle are the pipes supposed to be with a thermo siphon ? I don't have a copy of the manual.
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Listeroid Engines / Re: A tranquil evening....
« on: September 09, 2023, 08:03:55 AM »
Storms down under invariably bring power outages. Usually it's trees or branches falling on power lines. If it's the main line's you may be down for 2 to 6 hour's at least and up to a week. If your really unlucky and it's the short feed line to your house it could be much longer. My first inverter generator was stolen during the bush fires, probably by the very same people who lit them. The second one is only big enough to keep the fridges going and a few lights. Hopefully the new Lister will have enough grunt to cover us better.
I've been told to resist using sensitive stuff but since all our fridge compressors use inverter powered compressors would they be too sensitive do you think ?
The generator is an 8kw Yanan with an AVR.
I've been told to resist using sensitive stuff but since all our fridge compressors use inverter powered compressors would they be too sensitive do you think ?
The generator is an 8kw Yanan with an AVR.
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Original Lister Cs Engines / Easy way to remove gib key's from the flywheels.
« on: September 08, 2023, 11:29:24 AM »
When I first tackled the gib I relied on the " good advice" of someone at the local vintage engine club. This technique involved a lot of buggering around with little wedges and shims which tended to drift up.
So I thought about an easier way and decided to make a very big long wedge with a very shallow angle for maximum power and long enough that I could drive the end from outside the diameter of the flywheel.
So I grabbed a long length of angle iron and cut a long wedge with my angle grinder.
To avoid it riding up while driving I cut it with a bias so that the edge bit at the bottom of the key.
I rocked up at the club with my length of angle iron, tapped it snug on to the gib shoulder and drove it with a small mallet. It worked perfectly. Quick, cheap, easy and no damage at all to the gib key. Avoid the temptation to use a shorter steeper angle. I would suggest making it at least 14" long so it's a nice shallow gradual wedge.
2" wide angle would be about right. That will drive out the gib far enough to get it loose.
So I thought about an easier way and decided to make a very big long wedge with a very shallow angle for maximum power and long enough that I could drive the end from outside the diameter of the flywheel.
So I grabbed a long length of angle iron and cut a long wedge with my angle grinder.
To avoid it riding up while driving I cut it with a bias so that the edge bit at the bottom of the key.
I rocked up at the club with my length of angle iron, tapped it snug on to the gib shoulder and drove it with a small mallet. It worked perfectly. Quick, cheap, easy and no damage at all to the gib key. Avoid the temptation to use a shorter steeper angle. I would suggest making it at least 14" long so it's a nice shallow gradual wedge.
2" wide angle would be about right. That will drive out the gib far enough to get it loose.
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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister JP4 - which oil should I use
« on: September 03, 2023, 11:25:49 PM »
Don't take anything I say as the last word on this subject. I broke in my CS using Castrol 15W40. It worked fine at high compression but fairly smokey at low compression.
Then I used straight thirty weight castrol. It's still a detergent oil but less smoke.
I have not fitted my oil filter yet. But it's on the list.
I have more questions than answers but it doesn't look like the sump oil gets really hot.
Then I used straight thirty weight castrol. It's still a detergent oil but less smoke.
I have not fitted my oil filter yet. But it's on the list.
I have more questions than answers but it doesn't look like the sump oil gets really hot.
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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Newly restored CS 6/1
« on: September 03, 2023, 09:32:35 AM »
Some general information for those who may be interested.
My business is woodworking so I made the carriage out of Aussie hardwood, a species called black butt. Very tough, dense stuff. I mortise and tennoned the frame rather than use through bolts to keep the chassis stiffer and stronger.The frame for the generator is new Guinea rosewood. The belt tensioning bolts are made from 12mm metric threaded gal rod. The cast iron wheels are not as large as I would like but the price was right and they are double ball bearing. Not planning to move her around much once I've built the gen shed. I will cast a raised concrete plinth on the slab to bolt her to.
I've restored a lot of woodworking machinery over the years but this is my first
engine. I saw her for sale at a good price and had to have her.
The top of the cylinder bore was heavily stepped from a broken ring so I got the block resleeved. Pricey but worth the investment. So it's back to stock 4.5 inch bore.
It suffered some neglect in later years by the look of it. The block was totally clogged with rust, the valve seats and guides were needing attention.
Overall condition though was excellent. I tried to avoid over restoring it but couldn't resist polishing the brass and copper. The transfers are not the correct ones for the CS but they were all I could get.
I am not by any means an expert on engines. This is the first big engine I have ever rebuilt.
My business is woodworking so I made the carriage out of Aussie hardwood, a species called black butt. Very tough, dense stuff. I mortise and tennoned the frame rather than use through bolts to keep the chassis stiffer and stronger.The frame for the generator is new Guinea rosewood. The belt tensioning bolts are made from 12mm metric threaded gal rod. The cast iron wheels are not as large as I would like but the price was right and they are double ball bearing. Not planning to move her around much once I've built the gen shed. I will cast a raised concrete plinth on the slab to bolt her to.
I've restored a lot of woodworking machinery over the years but this is my first
engine. I saw her for sale at a good price and had to have her.
The top of the cylinder bore was heavily stepped from a broken ring so I got the block resleeved. Pricey but worth the investment. So it's back to stock 4.5 inch bore.
It suffered some neglect in later years by the look of it. The block was totally clogged with rust, the valve seats and guides were needing attention.
Overall condition though was excellent. I tried to avoid over restoring it but couldn't resist polishing the brass and copper. The transfers are not the correct ones for the CS but they were all I could get.
I am not by any means an expert on engines. This is the first big engine I have ever rebuilt.
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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Newly restored CS 6/1
« on: September 03, 2023, 08:47:42 AM »Very nice.
Will you be putting it to work?
Cheers
Hugh
[/quote
Sorry, I meant to reply to you specifically but I'm getting used to this format.
Anyway, here is the latest state of the project.
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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Newly restored CS 6/1
« on: September 03, 2023, 08:37:29 AM »
Yes. I have attached a Yanan single phase generator to it. Need to sort out the rpm because it's running under speed at the moment. Getting Rpm counter this week to figure out how far short I am. The carriage will need to be bolted down securely before I can adjust the governor. She bounces heavily when I try to increase the rpm.
I want to use her for back up generator and battery charging.
May try an aluminium piston down the track to reduce the vertical mass.
Will post a picture of current state of assembly.
I want to use her for back up generator and battery charging.
May try an aluminium piston down the track to reduce the vertical mass.
Will post a picture of current state of assembly.
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Original Lister Cs Engines / Newly restored CS 6/1
« on: September 02, 2023, 10:17:54 AM »
Greetings. New member.
Recently finished full restoration.
Runs great. Very happy with the result. It's a 1964.
I bought it in unusually fine original condition after looking at various engines that were not so great.
Even the fuel tank is in good condition. Needed a rebore, new rings, small end bearing and valves and guides. Replaced the inlet cam. Reground the lifters.
Kept as much original paint as possible but resprayed the stuff that was really tired.
Recently finished full restoration.
Runs great. Very happy with the result. It's a 1964.
I bought it in unusually fine original condition after looking at various engines that were not so great.
Even the fuel tank is in good condition. Needed a rebore, new rings, small end bearing and valves and guides. Replaced the inlet cam. Reground the lifters.
Kept as much original paint as possible but resprayed the stuff that was really tired.
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