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Messages - cujet

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cujet, you have a nice one there.
I see it has a Markon generator head. My guess is that it is either a BL105E or BL105F. Itís been years so I might be wrong. The clogged belt setups are nice. They do make a little noise but they are reliable and can take less tension than other belted setups.

It could possibly be one made by Next Generation Power Engineering, Inc.
I know some of the people at Next Generation over 10 years and they are great to work with. And, they have most parts in stock.

If it is one of theirs itís one of the earlier ones. They changed to a custom stretch type serpentine belt setup. The stretch type belt setup is also reliable and much quieter than the clogged setup. But I would rather have the clogged setup.

What can it put out?

Thanks for the info. Not at all sure what it can put out. Hooked up a couple of 1500 watt heaters and it ran them. I think the engine is almost 7HP. So if that's the case, it's a 3500 watt unit. The gen head is very oversized. Maybe it could use on of those tiny turbochargers....

 I have (what I think is) a very similar Kubota tooth belt driven generator EA330 engine. It is in the "as removed" condition. I understand it came off of a firetruck. Runs really well and will carry a modest load with no problem.

Listeroid Engines / Re: From a 12/1 to a 16/1 to a 30/2...and a question
« on: August 01, 2021, 02:38:53 AM »
Any chance for some pics? Or a Youtube video?

I have a 20/2 that was originally configured for 1000 RPM. I reduced the RPM to 800 and it seems about right. Sure, it's probably down to 16HP or so, but it matters not, it runs well there. I can also run it at 600RPM, but that seems a bit on the slow side.

I don't know if you have balanced the engine, but I found that the faster the engine runs, the worse it shakes. I spent some time getting the parts balanced individually, then operationally with my ACES helicopter balancing equipment, but there is not much I can do about the rocking couple inherent in a parallel twin with a 180 degree crankshaft.

38ac and starfire, you definitely achieved SLOW RUNNING.  ;)

I have a theory.
My engine is a 900 rpm 8HP unit.
Is it possible that the helix cut in the rack is machined for higher speed/HP sacrificing a few hundred rpm at low speed.?

Mine is a 6/1 that has been uprated by simply speeding it up. (and smaller dia flywheels) 

If you pull the injector, I'm sure you can watch it spray at low RPM. Of course, that's not overcoming compression, but it will answer the pump question. Mine has a starter motor which seems to crank it over at an RPM the engine should be able to "idle" at. I may try the injector thing and see what happens (I have spares)

However, because my engine is clearly "8 stroking" at low RPM, I'm pretty sure the fuel is getting into the combustion chamber and simply not igniting until a "double batch" of fuel is in there. I can check this a bit by locking the fuel rack in the (8 stroke position) and using the starter motor to start it. If, when I move the compression release, I get a single large pop, followed by no running, I'll know something more.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Idler gear backlash
« on: May 05, 2021, 01:23:32 PM »
First check I would do is to make sure its consistent all the way around. Mine is not. Its tight in one spot and loose in another. I think my Cam is bent.

That's the variable valve timing feature. Much like modern cars!

Do you have another pump to try? Possibly the pump position that would result in 200 RPM, produces no fuel?

I'm going to go out and run my engine and see how slow I can run it. I'm pretty sure it will go down to a very low RPM. Checking now.

Update: Tried low RPM by pulling up on the shut off lever. The not warmed up engine was 100% unwilling to run at low RPM. I could hear the injector's clank, so I'm pretty sure it was working. After warming it up, I tried again. The engine would maintain low RPM, but only fired every other time. Even though the injector clanked every time. The engine was difficult to control at this speed, and would occasionally need an open rack to get enough fuel to initiate combustion. Eventually, it slowed down to the point where the injection event brought the engine to a fast stop-n-reverse. At which point I engaged the compression release and the thing rolled backwards for a bit.

That 200 RPM video you posted did not seem to have much of an audible combustion event, and the RPM seemed very even. Mine would speed up and slow down around each combustion event.

Thinking aloud here, it's entirely possible that the compression is insufficient to ignite a tiny fuel quantity, and/or the indirect chamber has insufficient oxygen in it. Hence the 8 cycle running. I really do think the injector is working, as I can hear it.

If the Indian video is real, maybe they have higher compression or adjusted the timing to be closer to TDC, so the engine won't reverse like mine did.

Generators / Re: I'm ready to buy a gen head..............
« on: April 27, 2021, 10:32:15 PM »

I believe the problem with your microwave oven is the cheap AVR you have;  it is NOT regulating to RMS voltage, which a well functioning Z winding does fairly well.   

Well, the AVR was not that cheap....  ;D it's not the original, but an aftermarket one from Central Georgia Generator. It's able to keep the voltage much more steady and does help reduce flicker. I also have a bank of capacitors in the field circuit to smooth out the power.

Whether it's a properly made, quality AVR is difficult for me to assess. I will say that voltage remains at 120 per leg. The Z winding was/is wildly insufficient on my ST head and provided unacceptable performance.

Generators / Re: I'm ready to buy a gen head..............
« on: April 26, 2021, 01:28:34 PM »
I have 2 ST heads. The 6-1 has a ST-8 and the 20-2 has an ST-15. Both of mine are relatively low quality units and produced a less than ideal sine wave and unsteady voltage. They also required/require bearing changes to higher quality ball bearings. I've taken some steps to improve the sine wave and regulation by adding an aftermarket voltage regulator and picking up the regulation current from the main winding and not the Z winding on my ST-15 (as the Z winding was unable to get the voltage high enough, it was 219 max and dropped to 209 under load). With these mods, my ST heads are capable of producing high enough quality power. Even the oscilloscope sine wave tracing looks pretty good.

However, the main issue I have is related to the power pulses of the Listeroid engines. Each time the engine has a power-stroke, the gen head speeds up a touch. This leads to flickering light bulbs and complaining UPS power supplies. As you might expect, a few items in the house, like the microwave, simply won't work. Not really a big deal, as I can power that with my Honda EU2000i.

I'm not sure the choice of a 3600 RPM head would fully solve any problems, but it would allow one to install a more effective heavy pulley/flywheel on the gen head as the higher 3600 RPM speed (vs the 1800 of the ST head) has much more inertia. Might smooth out the power pulses a bit more. But it's just a guess as to how much improvement there would be.

If I were to do it again, I'd choose a higher quality generator head and I might experiment with a 3600RPM head.

In any case, the gensets have seen heavy duty post-hurricane use. Both worked well for extended periods of time and the relatively minor power quality issues were not terribly hard to deal with.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Multiple questions
« on: April 16, 2021, 03:29:58 AM »

Lastly for today - What is the absolute best way to hammer back in the gib keys. 

I made a tool to both remove and install the keys. It's a pipe that hooks to a slide hammer. It's working "face" is a robust steel part welded on. If I remember, I'll take a picture. The tool works well.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister Muffler Project
« on: April 06, 2021, 05:12:22 PM »
Very nice.

A couple of thoughts,

1) Just use a tiny hole on the bottom tank. Maybe you could drill your plug. It will release the water constantly. This is common on modern mufflers.

2) Consider a triple outlet "tip" using 3 different length and sized tubes. Tuned correctly, this can reduce the "thump" to 3 unevenly timed events, further reducing noise.

3) Consider a low outlet that turns towards the ground. Like a classic car tailpipe. This helps disperse noise and keeps water out.

Listeroid Engines / Re: New member
« on: March 28, 2021, 01:48:34 PM »
Hello and welcome. I'm not at all familiar with the engine, so I looked it up. Cool old thing. Do you have plans for it? Post some pics or a nice video when you get it.

Shameless bump for you lazy forum members :)

This is interesting stuff, we should do something with it.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Any one setup for CHP capturing your exhaust heat?
« on: February 09, 2021, 07:00:04 PM »
 Just a thought, but an EGR cooler from a larger diesel pickup truck or conventional diesel truck is one possible way to recapture exhaust heat. There are a great variety of units available, some of which are designed for high flow and are cleanable.

The use of a functional catalyst upstream of the EGR cooler will result in less EGR cooler contamination and more heat.


General Discussion / Re: Glort gone awol
« on: February 05, 2021, 11:59:35 PM »
I'm glad he is well and getting on with more projects. Maybe one day he will be back.

I always enjoyed his posts, many of which were quite thought provoking, and I do wish he'd come back.

This forum seems to have issues with users disappearing and post vanishing.

I think the Lister engine world is populated by people who want to prepare for what might be coming. The engine promises to be maintainable and sustainable. That's certainly what attracted me to this world. While I prep for hurricanes and the Listeroids have been wonderful after the multiple Florida storms, I feel like I fit right in to the prepper group. A group populated by eccentric people, who perceive future risk in a different, and quite possibly more clear, way.

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